Has anyone else had this problem?

Now, before you think its my hatch striker, its not! Thats what makes it worse. I have the ALTA Turboback and it never did this until recently. On acceleration around 2k rpm if I push the gas it seems the whole rear hatch resonates now and has an annoying "buzz" sound when Im on it. If Im just cruising its not there.

Has anyone else had this issue or happen before?

 

Have you checked the hangers and all hardware on the exhaust? Everything secure? It might be touching the body making it buzz.

 

Thats whats interesting is I checked the exhaust and it can move back and forth and anything else without hitting anything.

 

Hmmmm how about the interior panels in your hatch area?

 

I think Im gonna start with that....I may take the one off the rear hatch and see if it changes. Cause BOY it makes my car sound like a civic when I accelerate in the cabin

 

Yeah try and do that. If thats the buzzing noise it will help to add something like the soft side of velcro or some padded tape.

 

Take your rubber bumpers on both sides of the hatch door and turn both counter-clockwise 1/4 to 1/2 turn, more if needed. when my hatch clunks that's how I fix it.

 

There is a Service bulletin about rattling from the rear: it's not the hatch but the swaybar bushings. Here it is:

SI M33 02 09
Rear Axle January 2010
Technical Service

Load Graphics
SUBJECT
Rattling and/or Knocking Noise from the Rear Axle


MODEL
R55, R56, R57 without Sport Suspension


SITUATION
A rattling and/or knocking noise may be heard from the rear axle and/or rear
suspension while driving over uneven roads.

CAUSE
The inner diameter of the stabilizer bar mounts may be too large for this
application.

PROCEDURE
[GRUSB3309-02.JPG]
Use a caliper gauge to determine whether the rear stabilizer bar is 16mm
(1) (non-sports suspension). If the stabilizer bar is 16mm, replace the
stabilizer mounts (2) with P/N 33 55 6 754 823.

PARTS INFORMATION
Part Number
Description
Quantity

33 55 6 754 823
Stabilizer mount
2





WARRANTY INFORMATION
Covered under the terms of the MINI New Vehicle Limited Warranty

Defect Code:
33 55 01 39 00


Labor Operation:
Labor Allowance:
Description:

33 55 021*
Refer to KSD2
Replacing both rubber mounts for stabilizer








*Main Work - use this labor operation number when this is the only repair
being performed, or if this is the main repair when performed along with
other repairs at the same time. If this is not the main repair, refer to KSD
for the associated (+) labor operation code.


Not sure if that could be it, but it's worth a look. -Eric

 

I've had my '09 S back to the dealer twice. The first time they replaced the sticker, wrong. The second time the adjusted the striker. Well after fixing it myself; the stricker is not adjustable. The lower latch is. If the lower trim that covers the latch is removed you can lower the rear seats and climb in and adjust the latch correctly. The bumpers on either side of the hatch also need to be adjusted properly. Not having the official service guide, it was a matter of trial and error to get it quiet. The dealer had it so far out of wack that the first time I used the hatch after their adjustment it would not latch anymore and the hatch open chime just kept going. I was not going to drive another 26 miles to have them screw it up again. WARNING - do not try to pry the plastic panels off in the cold. they will break.

 

Thanks for posting this because I think I have this exact problem. Also where do you get all these service bulletins because you always seem to be on top of your game?

 

Oh nice I was just starting to have this problem too, maybe I can get it to be covered even though I'm out of warranty