I'm really impressed with how long the original clutch has lasted in my 03 MCS, but now comes the arduous task of forking over 11.4 hours of labor dollars, plus the cost of parts to have everything replaced (clutch, to bearing, flywheel, etc). My clutch never started to slip, smell, or otherwise give any indication that it was going, it was just poof and then no clutch. Turns out the throw-out bearing spontaneously combusted.

My thoughts are that while my mechanic is in there, why not have it all done at once?

Anyway, I checked out a few of the threads on here relating to clutch replacement and issues, and considering the general consensus that going to a single mass aluminum flywheel increases "chatter", I plan on sticking with the dual-mass.

From www.partsgeek.com:
LuK clutch kit - $195.75
http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/200...lutch_kit.html

LuK DM flywheel - $444.75
http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/200.../flywheel.html

I'll probably order the master and slave cylinder for the clutch as well for good measure... because I really don't want to have to deal with this labor bill again.

Should I have anything else replaced while the tranny's out? Any thoughts/advice on replacing the OEM clutch & flywheel? Does a "clutch kit" include the pressure plate, T.O. bearing, clutch disk?

 

The kit should have everything-pressure plate, T.O. bearing, clutch disk. As for what else maybe the front end bushings?

 

Good call.

These are external parts that can be replaced without all the labor required to pull out the transmission. You won't save any $ doing them as part of this job and they could last a lot longer.

If you don't have an LSD, replace the open diff with one of these.

 

You don't even need all that stuff. I wouldn't bother with the clutch master cylinder, in 7yrs I haven't replaced 1 yet.As for getting other stuff, go for the quafie, you'll love it.And for getting your other parts. Ask your Mechanic before you buy your own. When you bring your own parts it's kinda like taking your own steak to a resturant and asking them to cook it, big insult and we charge more to put in outsourced parts. And if he is ok with bringing your own parts, don't buy from the big evil internet store, but from a MINI vendor that supports the community, even if it's not me. Like Helix or Detroit Tuned. Vendors like us need all the sales we can get to keep business going and be here to answer questions and support the community.

 

WMW is right about getting the parts from the shop doing the work.

 

Oh, and while the subframe is dropped, you should probably do the control arm and swaybar bushings.

 

Do the guide tube, various seals, differential-plus bearings-if you can afford it.

Good call to inspect/replace the bushings as Tazio pointed out(check your steering rack bushing while there too).

Jeremy

 

Thanks for all the help!
Ordered some PowerFlex control arm and front sway bar bushings since there was some wear on them and the LF control arm bushing was cracking. Replacing the ball joints, too. Steering rack bushing is still doing fine. Supporting the community with Outmotoring.com.

I've known the mechanic for several years, and bringing my own parts is generally encouraged. The restaurant analogy doesn't really fit here, since my mechanic doesn't make money on parts, and the best price using WorldDirect through him was $700flywheel/$290clutch. I ordered the same OEM parts for almost $400 less, including overnight shipping. Happy to support the community when I can.

I appreciate the advice on the master/slave cylinder; didn't know those were accessible without dropping the subframe. Ohhhh, and LSD would be amazing, but maybe some other time. I'll have to start saving for that.