Also I Used This Head Sink.
For The Head N' The Resistor

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...uctId=15438946

 

Hi elchilo4ever, Thanks for the quick response! you guys are awesome!
i am not near the car now, but I remember there are two thin wires( and one thick wire) on the connector right ? does it matter which thin wire

Also, until the resistor arrives, you think its a smart idea to connect the thin wire directly to the thick wire so the high speed fan will run when low speed is called?

 

One Thin Wire Is Ground.
I believe is Black / Brown
Ignore This Wire.


The other One Is Red / Green
Low Speed

The High Speed Is Red / Blue.

N' Yes Do The Bypass.
The Low Speed To The High Speed

Good Luck!

 

Awesome! Thank you!! ( btw, just placed an order for two resistors. 1 for my car and 1 for reserve or to help a friend in need )

 

That's Awesome! 👍

 

just curious - anybody thought of putting a solid state adjustable voltage regulator for this purpose?
This reminds me of old time ceiling fan speed regulator with thick resistor pack( that heats up all the time when low speed is selected) vs the new electronics regulator that generates no heat at all ?

 

Switched the relays and still no joy. I'll go find the Bypass instructions. Thanks!

 

Is the hi speed to low speed bypass just jumping the two wires together where we usually would place the resistor? There is no power on those so it wouldn't matter if I jumped them. Maybe I misunderstood what they were saying. Can you give me the link to a good explanation?

 

bump?

 

Uhh... $15.14 each, but $40 shipping (flat-rate per order, I guess from Singapore). Unfortunately, the only other sources I see are volume wholesale distributors.

 

Really?

Wend I Order My Was Only $7.50
For Shipping.

Total Was Almost $23.00

 

Okay, I see.

When I add the item to the shopping cart, it says $40 shipping (and the website homepage says $40 flat-rate USA shipping). However, if I proceed to checkout, the shipment page says $6.99 USPS or $7.99 UPS/FedEx. Much better!

Thanks for your posts.

 

Just following up with a question I asked earlier. Is the hi speed to low speed bypass just jumping the two wires together where we usually would place the resistor? There is no power on those so it wouldn't matter if I jumped them. Maybe I misunderstood what they were saying. Can you give me the link to a good explanation?

Also, the car had intermittent A/C before it finally went out. It would be blowing nice and cold, then turn really hot for a minute or two, then back to cold. Any ideas on what was wrong, and is wrong? Also, why I have no power on the two wires that you would normally jump the resistor across?

Thanks for any help.

 

Ok. N' The Thick Wire of the plug is always power. ( Hi Speed )

Do the bypass to the Thin Wire
( low speed )

But the brown wire don't touch.
Is Ground

 

About You A/C Is Because You Fan don't turn On wend suppose to be.
To Quipped The Compressor Cold.

The Compressor Get Hot N' Turn Off
Get A Little bit Cold N' Turn On Again.

You Check You Fuse F5?
That's The Fuse Fan.

Be Careful Don't Turn You A/C Again until You Know You Fan is Working Properly.

Because You Can Damage You Compressor.

 

Thanks very much for the reply. Thing is, I have no power on either of those wires...the thick one or the thin one. I have checked all of the fuses, and have also moved the relays around to be sure it isn't just a relay issue. Is there anything else that would cause there to be no power on that thick wire?

 

Oh Ok.

I remember couple years ago
A guy have the same problem N'
He just reset the ECU
( same as disconnected A Battery cable)

N' Problem Resolved.

Tried I hope is that!

 

OK thanks, I will give that a try. Also, just a little while ago, I put a wire from the positive terminal of the jump point in the engine bay, and ran that to the thick wire....high speed fan came on. Then did the same with the smaller wire and the low speed fan came on. So I know they both work when getting power. However, there was still no A/C while either were running.

I'll do the battery disconnect and see what happens.

 

OK here's an update. I disconnected the battery for about 15 minutes. Hooked it back up, and started the car. I can hear the A/C compressor kicking in when I turn the A/C on. Still no cold air. I hear the low speed fan running now since I jumpered power to the wires there. When I hooked up my A/C kit to test the pressure it sat at around 30 on the low side and the same on the high side. This usually indicates the compressor isn't work. So I connected a can of R34 and felt the can getting cold. So it was flowing. But the pressure never went up. I little while later I noticed the pressure had gone down to 20. By the time 20 minutes had elapsed, the pressure was down near zero. So I assume I have a leak now, either in the system or the compressor. Does that sound about right to you guys?

 

ok. i just finished doing the resistor patch last night.
All looking good so far. mounted it on the transmission mount post (like many other did) with silicon base heat sink compound (radio shack)

Temperature goes up to 185 F
how hot does it get for you guys ?

Thanks Chris and crew ( and anybody else who contributed to it) for the research
Thanks elchilo4ever for answering my questions

 

Kmwoods.
Sorry For The Late Reply.

Check The Lines Of The A/C If Is Any
Oil N' The Lines.
That's Me You Have A Leak.

 

Socalr53.
That's Good!
Everything Works Perfect For You.

 

My 04 Mini R53!

W / The A/C On Is Always N'
175°F To 188°F


W / The A/C Off Is Round
190°F To 203°F


I Have The M7 Thermostat
Opens A 180°F

The OEM Thermostat
Opens A 195°F

 

I just did mine last weekend. I used the green resistor from Amazon, mounted it on the transmission mount w/thermal paste, and it got up to 186.5 F on the input side, and cooler as you move toward the output side. I didn't really spread out the thermal paste evenly, and I could only mount the resistor with one screw, so I know the heat transfer isn't optimal.

In a previous post, jvw got it under 120 F.

 

I did the resistor bypass, and it works fine. Thanks to everybody who contributed to this thread.

I cut the low speed fan wire, as described in many posts. However, afterwards I realized that it would have been even simpler and easier if you tap this wire instead of cutting it. Put a tap on the low speed wire and put a tap on the high speed wire, and connect the resistor between the two taps.

I recommend , which is superior to the older style T-tap connectors. Attach a Posi-Tap to each of the two red wires (takes just seconds and no tools required), and they are ready for connecting to the resistor. BTW, vendor Integral Audio here uses and recommends Posi-Tap.

In addition to the ease and simplicity, an advantage of tapping instead of cutting is that you leave the original wiring intact. Someday if your fan burns out, the replacement fan will include a good resistor, and you merely remove your tap wire to return to the original setup.