Not to worry I have all the solutions !!!


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It's not in "limb mode"... its just got wierd vacuum issues I believe, but this could be due to the 02 sensor... so this has yet to be addressed... been busy this week so no time to find a sensor....
I'll check that link above...

Thanks again guys for your support here.... I'm sure we'll get it figured out, and than I'll treat you both to Fish & Chips....

 

I'm sure the Inj will love some strange additive in the system......
Do they have scent??

 

nope

http://www.manhattanoil.com/fuel-fragrances.php

 

You can always try swapping the pre and post O2 sensor to see if the condition changes. The two sensors are identical.

ken

 

All I know is that i had both the MAP and the too much boost code before.. I took it to Mini because my car was still under warranty and first they blamed it on my detriot tuned BPV so i took it off brought it back to them and there was still the two codes erroring.. so end of the story is they replaced the MAP sensor and everything worked fine after that

 

The P030 Code, did you ever get this resolved?

I have an After market Header system that puts the O2 sensors very far down stream. I just had a New Cat welded in where only a Silencer was. I had 2 old O2 Sensors over 100,000 miles so I carefully cut in 2 new ones using Silver Solder and staggared so the Protective cover would fit! Now I have reprogrammed the car and got rid of the Cat related codes, but came up with this new code! Today I checked the resistance on the New Sensor vs the Older one and they were very close 3.5 for the New and 3.4 for the older ones.

I need to try to switch the Sensors to see if I just got a Faulty O2 sensor or what! This can get very tiring!

 

I second this. I was getting pre-cat O2 sensor codes even after replacing the pre-cat O2 sensor. I switched the pre and post sensors just to see if anything would change, the post sensor being the original MINI O2 sensor. And...code disappeared. Turns out the new O2 sensor I had installed was not within proper spec. for the more important pre-cat sensor which determines the fuel/air ratio.

If you get a new O2 sensor I recommend getting an NTK (original manufacturer), or a MINI O2 sensor. I still got the code with a Bosch and ACDelco in the pre-cat position.

 

Gary:

Have a dip in RPMs upon starting up. Had a throttle body cleaning service today and it did not help things. The thing that I would like to try next is a crankcase vent valve replacement. I can easily get my hands on one, and looking at where it is on the diagram and under the hood, it looks easy. But what exactly is required to do the swap? All I see is one nut, no clamps, etc., as see in diagram. I have a 2002 base MINI Cooper. Thanks.

 

VERY Easy! The Rubber hose pulls off and yse there is only 1 10 MM Head screw holding it all in place!

 

What is the easiest way to get that hose off the existing valve? Someone told me to spray it down with something, for example WD40, let sit overnight. Then remove it. Is this necessary? The hose does seem rather "stuck" (I haven't pulled on it yet, though). Any advice to help this go down without incident? And would WD40 damage the rubber hose?

Do I loosen the screw and remove the valve first or remove the hose first?

These elemental questions will help me do this job and not damage the hose, etc.

thanks

 

Remove the valve first then it is in your hand to hold the Hose and twise the valve out. If it tries to become difficult, take a very small screwdriver (Like you see in the plastic cases where the smallest one is used to tighten up the screw in Eye Glasses) and pry with a little twisting and lifting motion all of the way around and then if necessary spray some WD 40 and run the screwdriver around the edge again. Once you are holding the valve and are able to twist it on the hose the job is done. These hoses once were all replaced because they use a grade of rubber that split! Just another little something where Mini did not do any Homework at all!

 

Vincent, that is good perspective, but two things:

1) When you say, "... and then if necessary spray some WD 40 and run the screwdriver around the edge again," I assume by "again" you are saying that I am using that screwdriver initially too, as in where you say, "pry with a little twisting and lifting motion all of the way around."

2) Could this repair (don't even know if the valve is shot...) correct the following symptom: When start the car, tachometer goes up to the normal ~900RPM, then drastically dips to ~600RPM, then ramps up to ~900RPM again. At the point where it dips to ~600RPM, the car shakes as if it's going to stall, but it doesn't as it ramps back up to ~900RPM.

I unfortunately went to a mechanic yesterday for "throttle body service," thinking he would do it the right way. Seems all he did was access the air filter box and shoot cleaner in there while someone hit the gas. This isn't the correct process, as things would've needed to be disassembled and the throttle body cleaned in more of a hands on fashion. He also broke clasps and a zip tie along the way. Not good service.

Please provide your perspective. And thanks!

 

I do not think this would cure that! WHen my Porsche does the same thing is is ALWAYS because the Air Fuel Mixture is RICH. If your Idiot light is on I would suggest going to AutoZOne and having your codes read. If you took your car somewhere to have the throttle Body cleaned and your are afraid of hurting the hose to the PCCV valve I would avoid getting in too deep.

The reasons the car can run rich are usually clogged O2 sensors that are not reading correctly and that 99.9% of the time will cause a Code to be thrown. The PVCC Is fairly cheap and easy to replace and you have nothing to lose

 

Thanks.

I had the O2 sensors changed recently and this condition persists after the change. Never have actually had engine lights or codes, just the symptom I noted. The place that did the throttle body service never had instructions to be careful with any hoses. They just got jammed up and did the minimal work; never did disassemble, just hit the air filter box while someone revved... Their $29.99 service didn't help.

So, have new plugs, plug wires, OEM O2 sensors, ignition coil, fuel filter, air filter, new battery, recent synthetic oil change, etc., and still have this symptom. Not sure whether it is emission or ignition related, but it is frustrating.

Will do the seemingly easy and otherwise likely necessary PCV valve replacement and will hopefully derive results.

 

Fuel Filter? Is this a Mini Cooper or Mini "S"? I know for sure that the "S" does not have a Fuel Filter. It has screens on the fuel pump in the tank.

There are not that many lines (Vacuum or otherwise) on a Mini. Your problem is perplexing allright and I thought I had seen or had most of them. The Mini usies a Chrysler Neon "BASED" engine built in Brazil. One of the things they did to make more power was to shorten the Valve Guides. This causes the valves to start to wobble around 90 to 100K Miles. I had to replace the cylinder Head on ours when I checked the compression it was low on 2 cylinders.

I do have 1 last question. Do you know the condition of your Catalytic converter? Exactly how many miles do you have and exactly what car do you have. Also to see if you have any vacuum leaks try spraying Carb cleaner around the engine such as the lines and throttle Body. If anything is leaking, the rpms will rise and then fall as the vapors burn out. You may have to break down and take it to the Best Dealer you can find and hold your hands up while they Robb you to see what they say at this point!

 

This is a 2002 MINI Cooper base model (no "S"). Definitely a fuel filter in this guy and I swapped it out. Probably a good idea for there to be none in the S, as this was a hellish task.

I have ~105k mi. on this vehicle. The weird RPM dynamic I've described occurs only during start up, not during idling or regular cruising.

Only thing I will do now is replace the PCV valve on the chance that it is bad. Hypothesis: I was thinking that due to pressure build up at start up due to faulty PCV valve, some sensor causes the RPMs to go down initially, then PCV valve does open and relieves the pressure, and sensor then allows RPMs to go up to normal idling level.

Who knows? Can't worry about it too much, as the potential diagnostic cost is prohibitive at this point, since the problem doesn't affect actual drivability.

I appreciate your help thus far, including the best method to deal with the PCV valve replacement. Will do on Monday.