Crankcase Vent Valve
Crankcase Vent Valve
Alright so after driving around for over 6 months with the SC breather line that runs up the the vent valve on the upper lefthand side of the valve cover, because these were on backorder, they finally came in today and I installed it, only to have the problemo not fixed
If I leave it unplugged from the valve, the car runs and idle's prefect... as soon as I plug that shizzle in, the car runs smoother and when I'm driving, once you let off the gas and let the RPM's come back down to idle... the car dies, 80% of the time...
My question is this... why, when the line that comes plugged in from the factory, if left plugged in makes the car stall.... Something is a miss here and I am at a loss as to what it is... Any help in this area would be SWEEETTT.....
If I leave it unplugged from the valve, the car runs and idle's prefect... as soon as I plug that shizzle in, the car runs smoother and when I'm driving, once you let off the gas and let the RPM's come back down to idle... the car dies, 80% of the time...
My question is this... why, when the line that comes plugged in from the factory, if left plugged in makes the car stall.... Something is a miss here and I am at a loss as to what it is... Any help in this area would be SWEEETTT.....
sorry; is the car pre 05? there is a known problem with the hose from the pcv collapsing, causing a groaning noise and stalling . replace the hose with a later one or something rugged from auto zone and try it .
No, replaced that line as well... the line is not the problem... it's something somewhere else on the car... maybe some other vacuum leak on the motor, idk...
It's driving me crazy tho... and I need to run my car through emissions... pretty sure they won't pass it with a vacuum line unplugged...
It's driving me crazy tho... and I need to run my car through emissions... pretty sure they won't pass it with a vacuum line unplugged...
ok how about this: The Passenger or right side of the engine has the PCV on the valve cover. If this is left unplugged at the engine it may cause an engine light and maybe in some circumstances cause the engine to die? You are more likely to hear an annoying hissing and the gas mileage increase though. The Driver side or left side of the engine on the valve cover is the breather side. This would NOT cause an engine lights or stall the engine if left off unplugged or leaking etc.
Last edited by Nitrominis; Aug 6, 2008 at 05:27 PM. Reason: got my lt and rt mixed up
ok how about this: The Passenger or right side of the engine has the PCV on the valve cover. If this is left unplugged at the engine it may cause an engine light and maybe in some circumstances cause the engine to die? You are more likely to hear an annoying hissing and the gas mileage increase though. The Driver side or left side of the engine on the valve cover is the breather side. This would NOT cause an engine lights or stall the engine if left off unplugged or leaking etc.
Thank you.... so solution to the problem that I already stated in Post #1???
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BTW it is not likely that if you get it smoged the line unplugged would be noticed without a engine light to warrant looking closer at things. Also the PCV line would only effect the HC's which would be slightly higher but within specifications.
My conclusion drive it more and see what happens.
It is throwing a SES light...and weather the car learned to drive with it unplugged, well it still came from the fatory plugged in and im sure for good reason... it's driving me crazy... as you stated up above... as soon as i go to pass it, they pop the hood and hear this crazy hissing noise coming from the line... haha... ill just tell em its my nitrous purge... hahahaa
It is throwing a SES light...and weather the car learned to drive with it unplugged, well it still came from the fatory plugged in and im sure for good reason... it's driving me crazy... as you stated up above... as soon as i go to pass it, they pop the hood and hear this crazy hissing noise coming from the line... haha... ill just tell em its my nitrous purge... hahahaa
I drove with the breather line removed from the intake tube since 2003. And the pcv system has been disconnected and plugged for about 4 years. While I have since installed a different breather system I never had stalling issues caused by either line plugged or unplugged from the engine.
NOS purge cool... I have mine shooting through the drivers cowl.
Well the codes im throwing are
P0030 - 02 sensor
P0107- MAP sensor.... replaced upstream & downstream... still present... and NO READING!
P0132 - not sure
P1242 - too much boost during deceleration???
P0030 - 02 sensor
P0107- MAP sensor.... replaced upstream & downstream... still present... and NO READING!
P0132 - not sure
P1242 - too much boost during deceleration???

I have 2 minis and mine here right now. I just went out and pulled the pcv line
on both of them and fired up the engines. Lots of hissing. 04 and 06. Drove the 06 a hot lap up the coast 2 miles and back. no stall and no light. The 04 is still idling.

po132 is another 02 sensor caution
What year is your Mini?
Mine is an '03 MCS....
The car doesn't die with it unplugged or idle wierd...
It only dies when i leave it plugged in the way it is supposed to be... this is my issue... and it is driving me bonkers.....
The car doesn't die with it unplugged or idle wierd...
It only dies when i leave it plugged in the way it is supposed to be... this is my issue... and it is driving me bonkers.....
When you decelerate or idle the pressure in the crankcase and is drawn out through the PCV valve and back through the intake charge via the SC. When you are under a load it goes out the breather into the intake charge through the throttle body.
The only thing that having the PCV connected or not in your Mini is an increase in unrestrickted air. Which would only slightly lean the engine. The problem is somewhere else not the PCv system.
P0030 = HO2S Heater Control Circuit (bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0132 = 02 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
Have to research this one a little more?
Seeing as you only get this condition with the PCV valve hooked up...have you tried replacing or at the very least, cleaning the PCV valve with some carb clean and making sure you can hear it rattle when you shake it.
If that doesn't work I would remove the valve cover and check the area under the baffle where the PCV comes through to make sure it is free flowing.
If that doesn't work I would remove the valve cover and check the area under the baffle where the PCV comes through to make sure it is free flowing.
Keep in mind the evil god of coincidence. There may be another problem buried under that issue that's causing or contributing to the symptoms. Don't get too tightly focused.
(wow, that almost sounds like something from the I Ching)
(wow, that almost sounds like something from the I Ching)
No.
When you decelerate or idle the pressure in the crankcase and is drawn out through the PCV valve and back through the intake charge via the SC.
Well than weather its hooked up or not all that access boost will just vent to atmosphere than yes? So that probably isnt throwing any code than... it shouldn't make a difference either way....
When you are under a load it goes out the breather into the intake charge through the throttle body.
The only thing that having the PCV connected or not in your Mini is an increase in unrestrickted air. Which would only slightly lean the engine. The problem is somewhere else not the PCv system.
P0030 = HO2S Heater Control Circuit (bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0132 = 02 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
Have to research this one a little more?
When you decelerate or idle the pressure in the crankcase and is drawn out through the PCV valve and back through the intake charge via the SC.
Well than weather its hooked up or not all that access boost will just vent to atmosphere than yes? So that probably isnt throwing any code than... it shouldn't make a difference either way....
When you are under a load it goes out the breather into the intake charge through the throttle body.
The only thing that having the PCV connected or not in your Mini is an increase in unrestrickted air. Which would only slightly lean the engine. The problem is somewhere else not the PCv system.
P0030 = HO2S Heater Control Circuit (bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0132 = 02 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
Have to research this one a little more?So..... that's what? My interior heater system?> haha
Seeing as you only get this condition with the PCV valve hooked up...have you tried replacing or at the very least, cleaning the PCV valve with some carb clean and making sure you can hear it rattle when you shake it.
If that doesn't work I would remove the valve cover and check the area under the baffle where the PCV comes through to make sure it is free flowing.
If that doesn't work I would remove the valve cover and check the area under the baffle where the PCV comes through to make sure it is free flowing.
At this point I'm offering a reward for the genius that can solve this.....
You know who you are ....
Bank 1 Sensor 1 = O2 sensor closest to engine (pre-cat). It is a four-wire sensor, two of the wires are for a heating circuit in the O2 sensor to get it up to temp quickly (emissions stuff). If the heating element in the sensor has failed, it would throw a code for that (P0030) and possibly cause it to throw other related O2 sensor codes.
With thanks to Larry Caley:
(Highlights in red are my edit)
MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE (MAP) SENSOR. The MAP sensor is mounted on or connected to the intake manifold to monitor intake vacuum. It changes voltage or frequency as manifold pressure changes. The computer uses this information to measure engine load so ignition timing can be advanced and retarded as needed. It performs essentially the same job as the vacuum advance diaphragm on an old fashioned mechanical distributor.
On engines with a "speed density" type of fuel injection, the MAP sensor also helps the PCM estimate airflow. Problems here may cause an intermittent check engine light (light comes on when accelerating or when the engine is under load), hesitation when accelerating, elevated emissions and poor engine performance. The engine will run with a bad MAP sensor, but it will run poorly. Some PCMs can substitute "estimated data" for a missing or out of range MAP signal, but engine performance will be drastically reduced.
MAP Sensor Strategies: Some MAP sensor problems are not the fault of the sensor itself. If the vacuum hose that connects the MAP sensor to the intake manifold is loose, leaking or plugged, the sensor cannot produce an accurate signal.Also, if there is a problem within the engine itself that causes intake vacuum to be lower than normal (such as a vacuum leak, EGR valve that is stuck open or leaky PCV hose), the MAP sensor's readings may be lower than normal."
(Highlights in red are my edit)
MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE (MAP) SENSOR. The MAP sensor is mounted on or connected to the intake manifold to monitor intake vacuum. It changes voltage or frequency as manifold pressure changes. The computer uses this information to measure engine load so ignition timing can be advanced and retarded as needed. It performs essentially the same job as the vacuum advance diaphragm on an old fashioned mechanical distributor.
On engines with a "speed density" type of fuel injection, the MAP sensor also helps the PCM estimate airflow. Problems here may cause an intermittent check engine light (light comes on when accelerating or when the engine is under load), hesitation when accelerating, elevated emissions and poor engine performance. The engine will run with a bad MAP sensor, but it will run poorly. Some PCMs can substitute "estimated data" for a missing or out of range MAP signal, but engine performance will be drastically reduced.
MAP Sensor Strategies: Some MAP sensor problems are not the fault of the sensor itself. If the vacuum hose that connects the MAP sensor to the intake manifold is loose, leaking or plugged, the sensor cannot produce an accurate signal.Also, if there is a problem within the engine itself that causes intake vacuum to be lower than normal (such as a vacuum leak, EGR valve that is stuck open or leaky PCV hose), the MAP sensor's readings may be lower than normal."
Bank 1 Sensor 1 = O2 sensor closest to engine (pre-cat). It is a four-wire sensor, two of the wires are for a heating circuit in the O2 sensor to get it up to temp quickly (emissions stuff). If the heating element in the sensor has failed, it would throw a code for that (P0030) and possibly cause it to throw other related O2 sensor codes.




