I've searched all over for this topic but did't really find anything. Are there step by step instructions for this already posted on here that anyone can show me? If not does anyone have anything to look out for? I think it's pretty straight forward.

Thanks

 

Last I heard, and per the Haynes (10.3) the front bearings are "integral with the hub assembly, and can only be renewed as a complete assembly."

That being the case the replacement of the hub is pretty straighforward.

I'm sure the Bentley also provides the procedure....

Get the driveshaft retaining nut off
remove the brake
remove the wheel speed sensor
4 bolts free the hub

reverse to assemble

 

Thanks
I just ordered the Haynes manual. Just wondered if there was anything tricky to watch out for. I guess that nut can be pretty tight.

 

Nothing tricky to watch out for. Bend the outer edge of the retaining nut up and out of the groove in the shaft (good needlenose pliers work), and you'll definetly need a breaker bar or long pipe to turn that nut loose.
Everything about it is pretty straightforward.
-skip-

 

I have been told that it is very important to retorque the axle nut properly.

 

Yeah- I believe it's 134 ft/Lbs. recommended.

 

So is the manual right in that the bearings can't be changed? What about in the back?

I just checked the haynes manual and it says that the front are integral. It doesn't say how to change the rear bearings or whether it is possible. Does anyone know if this can be done?

 

hmmmm..... Haynes section 10.9 (page 10.7) Rear Hub and Bearings - inspection and renewal. As the fronts, according to Haynes, it is a unit.
step 7: "The wheel bearings are integral with the hub and not available separately."

remove the brake
remove the ABS sensor
4 bolts hold the hub
reverse to reassemble

 

I read that, but it only states how to replace the whole assembly. I need to know whether you can replace just the bearings in the back since I have a bad one back there. The haynes manual states that the back are non adjustable, but not that they are integral.

 

OK. I got everything off except the disc and hub. They're really stuck. I'm afraid to pry or beat on it too much. Any suggestions?

Thanks

 

this is step 7 of the prodecure for the rears....

step 7: "The wheel bearings are integral with the hub and not available separately."


same basic statement as for front...but in a different place in the procedure..... (note the "step numbers" from the left column the temptation is to jump to the next page...but the procedure's next step is actually on the SAME page, about midway down the second (middle) column.... I missed it the first time thru 'til I noticed the procedure jumped from step 3 to step 8...

 

by 'disk' I presume you mean the rotor...

a bit of pb blaster in the lug holes and around where the rotor meets the hub ring; let 'er soak a bit then carefully whack away. Presuming you want to continue to use this rotor I'd recommend a rubber mallet or cushioning with a piece of wood. {as noted below by another...you DID remove the TORX screw that holds the rotor on right?} Once the rotor is off, similar may be required for the hub....

removing stock rotors I've found a couple of stiff whacks to be enuf to pop 'em loose...a little anti-sieze on the back side helps prevent rust from bonding it to the hub next time. very little goes a long way.

 

DON'T FORGET TO REMOVE THE STAR BOLT HOLDING THE ROTOR ON. I HAD TO USE A BEARING PULLER TO REMOVE THE AXLE FROM THE FRONT HUB. IMPORTPARTS HAS THE FRONT BEARING ASSEMBLY FOR $144.00

 

Damn, it's in a weird spot. I didn't see it at all. Probably also because I didn't want to see that. Thanks! I guess there's no way around it.

 

OK thanks I'll spray it tonight and then get the rotor and hub apart tomorrow.
Thanks

 

Does anyone know the proper size TORX wrench to use?

Thanks

 

Hmmm...I THINK it was a T-50....all I have for TORX sockets are 40, 45 & 50 - came as a set - it was one of those..... I'd have to pull a wheel to check as Haynes doesn't say what size it is

 

OK I'm going to have to get a set so I'll try to get one with those 3 sizes.

Thanks so much

 

I believe it was a T50 but you should be safe with those three sizes. Be careful when removing them as they are easy to strip out. If that happens, you might have to drill it out like I did. That reminds me, I have to order some...

 

Mine were so rusted and ceased that all but one stripped. I used a dremel tool to cut slits on either side like a flat head and used a hammer and chisel to unscrew it. I can't believe they used such soft metal for something like that.

 

That's good to know. Where did you get new ones?

 

Replacement? for those torx bolts, I just used anti-cease and put them back on with a giant flat head screw driver. I prefer this to having to grind slits in the bolts every time I want to change them. Plus they don't really do anything...the wheel studs hold everything together fine. As long as they're tight enough not to back out under stress, you're good. I've never had a car with a bolt holding on the rotors. They all were held on by the wheel and studs.

 

That's what I was thinking I'd do too.
Should get my new hub assembly tomorrow. I'll keep you posted.

 

I believe that's true...all the TORX bolt on the rotor does is hold the rotor in the correct position until the wheel studs go in. The rear drums on my 79 have a similar bolt to hold the drum on...but it adds no 'strength'

The problem with this bolt on the MINI is a) it probably has a bit of rust helping hold it in, and b) getting good leverage given that you're up on a jackstand with the brake off. I have a piece of 1/2 inch angle iron about 3 feet long and use it with two lugs in place to wedge the wheel against the floor and keep it from turning. After soaking the bolt well with PB Baster I use the TORX socket on an 18 inch breaker bar making sure to hold the socket to the bolt tightly; there's a real tendency for the socket to slip out...and strip the screw head. Then it doesn't take too much pressure to git 'er done.

As stated - anti-seize when it goes back together and they only call for 20 ft/lb

 

Well I gave up. I took everything apart that I could and I could not get the hub and rotor to come off. I even used a chain a pry bar. Had to put it all back together and took it to a shop. Running great now with the new bearing! Thanks for all your help. If things wouldn't have been rusted and stuck together it would have been a fairly simple 1-2 hour job.