Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.

How to Change a front wheel bearing?

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Old Jul 8, 2008 | 10:28 AM
  #26  
ahamos's Avatar
ahamos
Coordinator :: River City Minis
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From: Richmond, VA
How much did the hub assembly cost? I'm facing the same issue on the rear.

BTW, I've repacked hubs on my Miata, and they're technically "integral". There are plenty of take-apart guides on the Internet for them.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2008 | 12:11 PM
  #27  
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boater454
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Mine cost $175 from drivewire.com but I think the rear's are a bit more.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2008 | 07:33 PM
  #28  
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ahamos
Coordinator :: River City Minis
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From: Richmond, VA
MiniMania is listing them for ~$234, but seems to indicate that price is for a pair. Anybody ever ordered hubs from them?
 
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Old Sep 12, 2008 | 06:57 PM
  #29  
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bigsmittyJAS
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From: Ann Arbor Michigan
I realize that this thread has been dead for a while, but I didn't want to start a new one and clog up the forum.

First, for those of you that think you have a bad front wheel bearing (or rear for that matter) put the front of the car up on jack stands and free spin the wheels. If one sounds like it is dragging, you have a bad bearing. Obviously, you have to pay attention and make sure the dragging is not on the rotors, but that should be pretty obvious.

Second, for those of you out there that have done this before, I need a little help. I went step by step through Bentley and got to the point where it says to remove the hub assembly from the steering knuckle and I can't seem to complete this step. My car has been driven every winter here in the midwest since 2003 and I am sure that there is some corrosion there preventing the assembly from easily separating from the knuckle. I am planning on renting a bearing puller to yank it off the splines, but I need some confirmation that I didn't miss anything (snap ring on the shaft, etc.) in the process. Obviously, I have removed the four mounting bolts and the axle nut. Other than those items, there is nothing holding that assembly right? Thanks in advance.

By the way, www.parts.com had the front hub assembly for $150.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2008 | 08:38 AM
  #30  
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burberryed
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I changed the right front on my Mini sometime back. As I remember the snap ring holds the knuckle joint in and I had to use a puller to disengage it. When I put it back together I had to use a small screw driver to push the snap ring together so that it would push back in. When it is in far enough it should be very hard to pull back out. It is essential that the snap ring snap lock back into the proper grove.
 
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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 05:45 PM
  #31  
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bigsmittyJAS
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From: Ann Arbor Michigan
Hmmm...well, if there was a snap ring there, it ain't there any more. I used a hub puller and was able to get the half shaft disengaged from the hub assembly. The splines had a lot of corrosion and required a good deal of cleaning before they would engage with the new assembly. I think that it was this corrosion that was keeping the hub attached. I reviewed the print in Bentley and didn't see any snap rings on the shaft. As far as I can tell, only the axle nut keeps the splines seated in the hub assembly.

One thing about this for those attempting to do this themselves. I had a very difficult time removing the ABS sensor as Bentely suggests. In fact, I decided that if I tried to take it out, I was definitely going to break it. I figured I had at least a 50/50 chance of saving the sensor, by not pulling it out. It was very much seized in the pass through hole. I ended up not damaging the sensor and the ABS works fine.
 
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Old Sep 16, 2008 | 10:52 AM
  #32  
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burberryed
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Bentley Manual 310-25, third drawing.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2008 | 11:26 AM
  #33  
ChrisGT's Avatar
ChrisGT
1st Gear
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Warrenton,VA
I used a bearing puller on mine as well. Keep an eye on your lower a-arm bushing also. Excessive front to rear play in the wheel assembly indicates worn bushing. The dealer told me they do alot of them when I went in to buy mine, and I decided to do both sides since you have to remove the front bumper and the subframe to access them.

Keep in mind that my car sees as much as 12 to 15 track events per year, some with dot spec r-compound tires, so your experience may vary.
 
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Old Sep 20, 2008 | 02:38 PM
  #34  
bigsmittyJAS's Avatar
bigsmittyJAS
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From: Ann Arbor Michigan
Originally Posted by burberryed
Bentley Manual 310-25, third drawing.

That snap ring is inside the boot and only comes into play when removing the drive axle, not the hub assembly.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2011 | 08:55 AM
  #35  
element's Avatar
element
3rd Gear
Joined: May 2003
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From: Seattle, USA
bringing this one back.. i cant get the bearing hub to pop out of the carrier.. i have the 4 bolts out and axle nut off (axle is loose and floating).. tried hitting it with a hammer from all sides, even with a old rotor on there.. no luck.

Any suggestions? maybe i'll try a puller to pull the whole thing off? or remove the whole assembly from the car and knock it out on the bench (i need some pullers for the ball joints in there)

phil.
 
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Old Sep 14, 2011 | 04:10 PM
  #36  
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mankypurple
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From: fayetteville NC
on the subject of wheel bearings, i got a problem i think is a wheel bearing. could use a 2nd opinion. when i accelerate or brake (basically when the body weight shifts forward and back) i get a plasticy popping noise from the front passenger side. its started when i was driving normal and heard a loud thud, almost like i kicked up a ball of dirt or something. then the popping started.
my mini is an 05 R53 with lsd, if that makes a difference.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2012 | 06:16 PM
  #37  
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coopspeed
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Originally Posted by element
bringing this one back.. i cant get the bearing hub to pop out of the carrier.. i have the 4 bolts out and axle nut off (axle is loose and floating).. tried hitting it with a hammer from all sides, even with a old rotor on there.. no luck.

Any suggestions? maybe i'll try a puller to pull the whole thing off? or remove the whole assembly from the car and knock it out on the bench (i need some pullers for the ball joints in there)

phil.
I had the same problem. I used a chisel and hammer to get the old one to move. If you go at it form the front, the chisel will work the old bearing loose.

The only other things I can think of are: 32mm axle nut socket is available at Autozone for borrowing. While you are there pick up some plastilube for when you put the brakes back together.
 
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