Well here I go, I have read all the threads ragarding overheating issues and have tried pretty much everthing listed so mabey Im missing something, but cant be sure.
the car 2003 MCS,

Initial issue: broken T connectore to the right of the resivoir.
Replaced T connector, then tried to bleed system, while bleeding I broke the press relief screw in the front behing the radiator.
Replaced screw then reattemted to bleed system, withing 5-8 min car overheats, went thru and assumed the thermostat was bad, replaced with new one from the dealer, reattemp bleed again, still 5-8 min and the car overheates,

Things I have checked according to the previous posts,

1 fuses are all ok, they dont blow out
2 high spped fan does kick on at about 115 c
3 lifted the front while tring to bleed the system
4 no heat coming out on hi
5 radiator is hot on the left side and cool on the right
6 bleeder bolt on the thermostat housing when opened pushes out af not air
6 bleeder screw on the hose once car is hot pushes all steam not af
7 no af mix into the oil,also no oil in af and no af going to exhaust
so I have ruled out a head gasket
8 noticed that when i start the vehicle and its cold, i tuned the ac on to check if the hs fan kicks on and it seems to cycle on and off, it does'nt stay on until the car starts to overheat at the 115c
9 temp sensor seems to be working fine
10 water pump seems to also be working fine unless there is something im not noticing

I dont know I am missing something or doing something wrong, does this sound stricly like an air in the system issue, is there something else to ckeck.


my process to bleed:
1 top off resivoir
2 start the car
3 once the car starts to heat up open bleeders(both of them)
4 usually the one on the thermostat housing shoots out antifreez rite away
so i close that one first
5 the bleeder screw by now is shooting out steam and the resivoir is boiling over and dumping from the cap
6 shut down the engine, hs fan is still running for about another 5 min till the car cools down.
7 then the same process over and over


the Mini dealer mech i spoke with told me somtimes they need to be driven between bleeds so i even tried that but still nothing, same results, it seem all the antifreez i put in just comes right back out while bleeding the system, either through the bleeder or when the resivoir boils over.............


thanks in advance

 

do a pressure test . could be blocked radiator? thermostat opening?

 

FLUSHED MOST OF THE SYSTEM, RAD IS CLEAR, ALSO HEATER CORE IS FINE....WAS FULL OF AF. PULLING THE WATER PUMP.... UNLESS ANYONE HAS ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS.

 

I use this always and it helps out tremendously. cheap and you dont have to do any of that lifting the front of the car or anything to bleed. just fill it up and bleed the coolant. it holds the coolant higher than the rest of the system to push out all bubbles. And I've never had to drive a vehicle between bleeding to get the air out.

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/LIS-24610.html

 

replace the thermostat

 

but what you're describing SOUNDS like a bad t-stat. Try to do it with no t-stat (use just the gasket but no thermostat). If everything else is OK, it will just take longer to get to temp....

Maybe your pump drive is shot. If you take the water pump off, see if you can spin the drive from the back of the SC.... If so, time for a supercharger....

Matt

 

I also thought it was the T stat, it was changed prior to me bleeding the last time, I am pulling the waterpump now, i pulled the cover and tried to spin the propellers it moved but is very choppy as if its binding up from the back.....having a little trouble pulling the pump out anybody have a schematic or inst to remove the whole wp without having to take the intake off, also if the shaft is bad do i need to replace the whole sc or can the shaft only be replaced

 

it's usually the teeth in the drive gears that are shot, and this means replace the SC, as the gears aren't available separatly.

Matt

 

pulled the sc and the gears are dead......... need to find a sc

 

Are there any reasonably solutions for fitting an electric pump? I've often wondered about doing that if/when my wp dies.

 

Ask the people who are doing turbo only setups, they would know.

 

I'm surprised, with the number of people going turbo with the minis, that we haven't seen more well-documented cases of electric water pumps. If mine breaks, I'm going to consider going electric for sure. No point in replacing what seems to have been a stupid decision on MINI's part in the first place.

 

How many miles on your MINI?

 

and an aftermarket electric pump for hot rods and the like that's cheaper, but is rated for only 2000 hours or something like that. (That's a couple of years....)

I think the BMW pump is a bit price prohibitive.... But check with anyone that offers a Turbo only conversion, they may be able to "turn you on" to the parts for a price...

Matt