if what they say isn't in writing, it's only worth the paper it's written on!

They will never go through what it takes to confirm viscosity on oil that has been run on the car. They don't have the tools at the shop, and won't spend to send it out. So I wouldn't worry about it.

Matt

 

That was exactly my concern. If an engine fails from cold start issue while under warranty, are they going to be able to decline the warranty because the oil in the engine doesn't meet the spec in the manual?

 

no. They will never know that the oil is 0W30 vs 5W30 unless you tell them. To find out, they'd have to sample it, send it out to a lab, and have good enough results to know that it's one vs another within oil type variance and wear. This is hassle and effort that I've never seen from a dealer.

Matt

 

I combined two threads concerning the same issue and inadvertiently got the titles backwards.

This is a serious revelation concerning the R56 - no attempt to dilute the title

 

Where does it say the car needs A3/B3 and BMW LL-01 oil?

 

Word-for-word right from their website:

"The Accusump, the original automotive oil accumulator, is designed to provide the engine with oil pressure before the starter is even engaged.

On initial start-up when the valve on the oil side is opened the pressurized oil is released into the engine and therefore pre-lubricating the engine prior to start-up.

The Accusump holds whatever oil pressure the engine has at the time that it is shut off.

After the engine is started and the oil pump has taken over, oil is pumped back into the Accusump.

This moves the piston back and pressurizes the Accusump until it equalizes with engine's oil pressure.

Independent studies have indicated that up to 50% of wear on engine components occurs during the engine start-up, before oil pressure can be established by the oil pump.

The Accusump can eliminate "Cold start scuffing" by delivering oil under pressure before the engine is started."

In addition to adding some insurance against loss of oil pressure while running, sounds like it'll work to provide immediate pressure on start-up as well, giving quick lubrication and pressure to the head. Just what the R56S needs.

But hey... I'm just going by what they say on the manufacturer's site. I've never used on myself. You obviosly have, soooooo...

 

Yup, nothing there is a surprise... I guess if you get in your car and flip over the valve right before you start the engine that would be as they describe. My experience was if you didn't close the valve when the oil pressure was high (high revs for my car) you would have too much oil in the pan on startup. So I guess while this might work, it would be an extra burden on the driver to be flipping that valve open and closed at startup and shutdown.

Not arguing with you - the real answer is MINI figures out how to keep the valve lifters full of oil w/o anyone having to add stuff to the car.

 

and are a great addition to any car where you want the motor to last a real long time. But they do take a little care and feeding. The biggest pain in the butt is to find a place for the resevoir. In race cars this is no problem, but in street cars, it's more difficult.

Matt

 

Talked to my service guy today, I'll be bringing mine in next monday for my 1 year service ,told him about the cold start oil starvation problem , he knew just what I was talking about and said they have a fix for it though he wasnt sure what it is . I was just glad I didnt get "we never heard of that before ".

 

Customer: I have a problem, it's like this.

Service Guy Answer #1: You're the first we' ve heard of this from.
Service Guy Answer #2: We can't get it to happen, so don't know what to fix.
Service Guy Answer #3: Yeah, we know about it. There's a fix but we don't know what it is yet.
Service Guy Answer #4: Yeah, we can fix it, but the parts are on back order.
Service Guy Answer #5: Yeah, we can fix it, but you have to pay because it's because of your modded shift ****.
Service Guy Answer #6: Yeah, we can fix it, but you're out of warranty!

You went straight to #3!

Matt

 

Matt, LOL. Do you happen to know whether MC2 magazine is going to do a story on the cold start issue any time soon?

 

but if you'd like to see one, e-mail Barry (the publisher) or Peter (the editor). The e-mail addresses can be found on the mag web site, I think...

Matt

 

The manual valve is unnecessary... as the electronic valve they offer makes the process pretty much automated for that daily driver:

The Accusump Electric valve (#24-270) provides convenient hands free operation of the Accusump. By wiring the valve into the ignition switch the Accusump will automatically turn on with your ignition and provide pre-oiling. This is especially useful when the Accusump body is mounted in a hard to reach location.

This kit will convert all manual Accusumps with 1/2" N.P.T. over to the electric valve. Kit comes with electric control valve with 1/2" N.P.T. thread, pipe nipple, toggle switch, wire and wire terminals.

Note: The refill rates on the electric valves are suitable and recommended for Street and Drag Strip use. On Circle Track and Road Course applications where quick refill rates are required, we recommend our E.P.C valve or our manual valve listed below. "

They also at least make the suggestion that everything should equalize when the oil pump takes over (provided the proper presure/valve is installed).

But yes, I would agree that MINI should develope/provide a fix for this vs. expecting the customer to rig somthing up. It just seems that this would likley work.

 

LOL!!

#6 should read: Yeah, we can fix it, but you're out of warranty now because you waited to long to tell us about it!!

 

I think the "fix" consisted of revving, listening, bleeding.
My car hasn't made the noise again but I really wonder what they actually did.
I got my car back suspiciously fast...

 

Hasn't the bleeding thing been tried already only to have the noise return?

 

I think so.
My problem has been very sporadic so it's not a big deal that my car has been quiet since coming back from the dealer.
There is another dealer in the area that I've been told is replacing hard parts if a car is brought in with the problem; they don't want to have to fix things twice.
I believe that I'll be switching dealers...

 

to MoSA or Global?

 

For a street car, wouldn't an electric pre-oiler pump be a better fit than an accumulator? No extra oil supply to find a place for, no user-operated values, just automagic electric pump running before startup to pressurize the system. This looks pretty cool but still requires a place to mount and adding in oil lines, etc

http://worldlube.com/preoiler.html


Just musing..

 

Interesting and maybe similar to http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/amk.aspx that I posted before seeing this?

 

Our little bird in Chamblee told me that MoSA is replacing the hard parts.

 

What "hard parts"??

My mini is going in for service tomorrow (replacing the rear center brake light (it is loose). I want them to look at this again.

Are you saying we should have two things performed:

1. ,,,,20297 SIB 11 02 07 Performed SIB 11 02 07 REGARDING INSUFFICIENT
,,,,AIR FREE OIL TO CHAIN TENSIONER. PERFORMED BLEED PROCEDURE STEPS 1-5,
,,,,NO NOISE AFTER REPAIRS. DC: 1133043900; LO:1199000; FRU:5

2. "hard parts" replaced.

?????

 

I don't want to commit their resources if it's not an official fix --- and this is heresay --- cam chain and/or tensioner. Not sure if there is an improved one.
We could use a tech to jump in here; I got the info second-hand from a former tech.
Event Horizon will probably call around.

 

I wudnt say my car sounds the same.. but a very similar noise comes on cold mornings on idle. Runs smoothly on acceleration and coming from honda civic, I thought the engine worked a little harder. Of course, once you start it and drive around for a while, on all other starts it sounds

However, on service, it seems there is a bulletin out on it. My SA said on some cars the oil has trapped air bubbles inside and this might cause this noise. There is no damage to the engine and its just an annoying sound but is supposedly fixed. I will see how it goes

 

But from what I can tell, this is a mini accusump. The difference being that it claims to not use an air bladder or just compressed gas as a "spring". It's an electric solenoid on top, not a pump.

But that said, anything that would pre-lube the engine is a good idea. What baffles me is that one scenario is that the oil froths, and it's these air bubles that screw the pooch. What's frothing the oil? Why doesn't it just going back to the pan allow for the bubles to stay on top till they die a naturale death? What's getting them into the pick up?

Matt