update on my reduced power mode

my hpfp has failed, and mini usa and my dealer failed to help me pay for repairs

i got a factory bmw pump off ebay for 695 with a new fuel pipe... from my dealer

got it put on in about 45 mins...piece of cake

hpfp code is gone, no more random misfires, no more hard starting and stalling

reduced power mode still comes on every drive with no codes stored

man i love a good puzzle ..........

 

"reduced power mode still comes on every drive with no codes stored" Thats wierd, you cleared all the codes?

 

i cleared the codes from fuel pump failure, yes

i have never gotten any codes when car goes into reduced power mode

i have constant 02 codes every other drive or so from cat delete

i had some codes when i had the t-stat issue

did not have any codes when recirculation valve on turbo fell apart either

if you try to accelerate under maybe 3000 rpms, BAM, reduced power mode

 

to clarify, when i say no codes, i mean the wife is using the torque pro app on android with a chinese blutooth adapter from ebay. since i just got and am learning inpa, it never even occurred to me to scan the car and check it that way......

 

I couldn’t find any stored codes using a universal OBD code reader with a yellow reduced power light. Finally bit the bullet and bought Carly Pro and found BMW code 0x2C57, (OBD generic code P0299) charge air pressure too low. Replaced DV, boost pressure converter, checked wastegate operation and checked for all possible vacuum leeks. Still was going into a ”limp” condition in higher gears, esp on inclines. I also knew I needed a new valve cover so replaced that along with the turbo control vacuum lines. After that, car ran great with no reduced power light for over a week until yesterday, reduced power light came back...I’m stumped.

 

update again

i checked my codes with inpa and found a p1497

so i did some light reading and set out to check my pcv and catch can .....again

i have previously put a dual chamber catch can on the car to try to stop the oil consumption issues

after that did nothing to help, i replaced the valve cover. that also did nothing to help

so i get in there and find one of the check valves in the catch can system is bad and the manifold vacuum is sucking clean air from the turbo inlet thru the can. no vacuum in the crankcase at idle.

i pulled the valve out, took it apart and the plastic internals are gone.....lol

then i remembered i got taken and bought the counterfeit rx catch can before i knew there was a counterfeit out there.....woohoo

so i ordered a quality valve that wont break, and i fashioned a temporary fix inside the old valve from some plastic i had laying around

i put the crap back on the car, cleared the codes, and went out for a test race

the smoke from the exhaust is greatly reduced because the oil in the turbo is now allowed to drain back to the engine properly

the p1497 code is gone

the reduced power mode light still comes on anytime you try to accelerate below maybe 3000 rpms.....and store NO codes on torque app or INPA

its like doing the 1000 piece puzzle with the bare cardboard side up

 

walnut blasting yet?

the first time i was chasing this problem, that seemed to help.

now that i have run down all these other issues, im thinking im going to pull the intake off this weekend and take a peek at the valves again

it wont surprise me to see them completely coked up again

 

since no one else is posting on this thread please allow me

my reduced power mode problems have gone away since i tightened up my waste gate

i blew another check valve on the catch can so i pulled all of it off and put the hoses back like stock.

i have no codes except my standard p0420 for the missing cat

now whenever you give the car more than 3/4 throttle and get over 3000 rpms, the car misses and backfires until you let off the throttle.

talk about pops and burble......geeeez

it will cruise at lower rpms no issues. will do hiway speed no problem

i pulled the plugs to make sure they arent oil fouled or coked up.... look good

my afr seems normal...between 11 and 15 normal driving, 30 off throttle decel. dips below 10 when missing and backfiring but i would expect that with unburnt fuel in the exhaust?

fuel pressure is good

has 4 newish coils on it, replaced them last christmas with plugs. factory bmw parts

i am running out of patience for this freakin car

anybody have any idea what i should look at next

 

Did you look at the intake on the head side to see if you have carbon build up?

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-cleaning.html

 

no, or not in the last 5 months or so

ive walnut blasted the car twice in the last 18 months

would that make the car miss and backfire under load?

it was so coked up the first time i did it that the intake ports were pretty much full of carbon. car ran like a non turbo car, but no missing or backfiring.

the wife drives it everyday so i cant pull it apart to check intake ports till friday, but i will do it then

everything with this car is so damn difficult. i cant imagine intake coking causing the car to miss and backfire exactly like a rev limiter....only on the 3rd time i needed to walnut blast it??

i am starting to wonder if my 35 day old factory mini hpfp is bad already. i read on another thread that if they bleed down to fast it can cause this issue.

being that i just put the pump on the car the weekend after black friday i sure as hell hope thats not my issue. i am used to being able to rule out a cause after that particular part has been replaced

 

Yes, you can have a bad factory fuel pump, i have seen a few, its kind of rare. I just wanted to make sure you did the carbon blast.

If you went through everything i would go back to that fuel pump or if you are getting an fuel leaks or anything on install.

 

no fuel leaks

installed new fuel pipe as direscted by dealer i bought it from, got it free with pump

no codes with torque app

my inpa magically decided to quit working while no one was touching the laptop.....

ive spent about 4 hours so far trying to get inpa back up and running....no luck so far

im going to try to do the leakdown test with torque app.

the fuel pressure is fine while running

its about 100psi with ign on, 700psi at idle, and as high as 1800 normal driving. does not drop below 700 when car is missing and backfiring

 

Hope this is the right place to ask..

My wife has a 2013 Cooper S and yesterday it decided to limp. :( Basically, on her way to work the half full colored engine light came on and the yellow engine light in the middle part of the dash also came on. She was half way to work, so about 30 miles from home. We parked it over night and slow drove it home after she got work.

Hooked a reader to it and it's showing a cylinder 2 misfire code. I'm over 90 miles away from the closest mini place, so... I am not sure what to do at this point. Change the plugs and ignition coils? Any advice, links to parts, etc., would be greatly appreciated.

Be gentle, I have a severe brain injury so I have to take things slow on what to do mechanically. I'm basically dumb.

 

Just put a new ignition coil in cylinder 2, and all is well now.

 

I own a 2010 R55S Automatic with 59K miles.

So yesterday, I was driving in the rain at about 75 mph and had to accelerate to avoid a car trying to take my lane.
There was a slip of traction momentarily, and immediately the yellow engine icon came on, and it started to stumble and run rough.
It went away shortly after, but returned again under the exact same conditions. this time I smelled raw petrol in the cabin, something I've never encountered before. It was running so badly, I had it towed home, and am now stuck.
I know the HPFP issues are numerous, and the dealer said I'm SOL on getting warranty replacement because of my Vin. #. What a pleasant surprise especially when they told me what a new pump costs.
I'm pretty old school with regards to mechanical repairs, but have successfully replaced my water pump, pipe and thermo housing recently.
I'm not afraid to work on this, but diagnosing exactly what's wrong with a myriad of possibilities is daunting me.
I bought a Bosch fault code reader, and am trying to understand what the manual lays out, but am having trouble with that as well.
If this were an old mini with an SU pump, I'd have replaced the spare I always carried with me already. This thing is far too complicated, and electronically managed for me to feel confident about diving in. I'm not ready to tow it to the dealer, or even drive it at this point. Can anyone help me suss this out please? My email is ipaintwithsound@gmail.com if anyone feels compelled to contact me personally. Thanks!

 

The raw fuel smell is what I experienced with my 09 MINI S when the HPFP went out. That much raw fuel CAN burn out the catalytic converter, so parking is a good idea.

Check an indie shop. Also, the cost for the HPFP has come down DRASTICALLY (but maybe not through the dealer).

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-bosch-pa...518605102~bos/

 

I have same problem, under hard accelerating blinking CEL and bad engine response, no power. I have fully rebuild engine and new GTD 47 turbo, custom made software and everything works fine after rebuil(9tkm) but now is this weird problem. I have suspicion that fuelmix goes too lean, causing this blinking CEL without any codes and bad running. Coultd it be dirty fuel filter or bad LPFP?

 

As I was puling out of the driveway this morning, my 2013 R59 S decided to go into limp mode. The half full colored engine light came on and the yellow engine light in the middle part of the dash also came on, just like F34R. I managed to slow drive it to Mini of Irvine. No other choice that I know of. :-( Left it with them and they have not contacted me yet as to what the problem could be. I hope it's not too involved (meaning costly!). I am envious of you folks that know your way around codes and fixes.

 

Update on "recommended" services:

I don't believe I'll be doing all of these

Time to shop for coils.

 

Got the Delphi coils. Replaced the cylinder 4 coil and the car seems to be running fine. Replaced the other coils as a precaution. But the reduced power warning is still on, even though the car is running normal. I'll do a search on how to reset it, but does anyone have a quick tip on how to reset the yellow warning light?

 

2008 R56 S N14 87k. Got it home from a private party sale and not more than 2 days later.... Yellow half light on... and off.... and on... decreased engine power warning, but no CEL in the center cluster. No Fuel smell, runs like a non-turbo car (in comparison to my 2012 R59 Roadster S), but still gets up to highway speed (90mph). Took it to a dealer for diagnostic as we just bought the car a week ago, and I didn't have time to run through the steps.
Dealer verdict.... and I quote:
Found multiple issues. Performed short test, found Boost pressure fault followed test plan, found turbo to be faulty. Replace turbo $4,395 and vacuum pump $795, update software $188, Also found coolant pipe water pump to thermostat leaking $635.
I only paid $4k for the car... now I wish I paid much less.

Looks like I'm gonna get the wrenches out this weekend... anyone got any pointers or suggestions? Do I get a junkyard turbo? a lower mileage take off? Anyone got one? Figured I might as well do a few things while I'm here... HPFP? Coils? Plugs?
It's my wife's commuter so this thing has to be reliable to the tune of 120 miles a day every day. I'm in socal so I'm not worried about winter coming up, but still want to get this solid for her. Oh... and her sunroof sometimes doesn't want to open and slide all the way back. More to love. I have no idea where to even start on that.

 

Is there a reference list of the faults that can trigger either the yellow (Full engine power no longer available) or red (Engine malfunction) half-engine light?



The MIL's OBD-II emissions fault codes are standardized and specific, and the Check Control fault is interpreted in English and/or hieroglyphics right on the dashboard, but I have not yet found a list of faults signified by the half-engine lights.
Even my trusty Bentley book and its supplemental library are uncharacteristically silent on this point.
That tri-state indicator light (off, yellow, red) boasts the same level of uselessness as a dashboard without gauges for coolant and oil temp, oil pressure, charging system voltage, etc.
(If a reference to such a list has appeared in any of the previous 24 pages of this thread extending back more than a decade, please accept my apologies for my laziness, and my suggestion to make it a sticky in the thread or in the forum.)

My specifics:
2012 Clubman JCW (R55/N14) with 137k miles
Intermittently shows the yellow warning, as it decreases power available to varying degrees
Has appeared during extended, continuous high speed / high power operations, and has appeared while idling at a traffic signal
OBD-II shows no active faults, but has Pending P3091 "Fuel Rail Pressure-Rate-Controlled Minimum Pressure Fallen Below"