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Yellow engine light - full engine power no longer available
Stock Problems/IssuesDiscussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S(R56), and Cabrio (R57).
The hybrid is a larger compressor housing with the stock exhaust housing, giving you the benefits of a more dense charge with the quick spool of the factory charger. You can run a hybrid without tuning, but only to a certain extent, once the A/R gets too large the factory fueling map won't be aggressive enough to spool it efficiently and you will have a horrible torque curve, not to mention possible lean conditions at WOT.
If you are not looking to delve into a game of cat and mouse just replace the stock charger with another stock charger. They are capable of 18 PSI comfortably, much over that you begin to push it out of it's efficiency map.
The diverter valve being broken will definitely cause a half power situation, along with low power.
The dealer wasn't wrong in the programming of the car after a walnut blast; that said, it isn't necessary if you Seafoam the engine every 5k-10k miles as it drastically cuts down on carbon buildup.
The programming basically changes injector duration while the intake valves are open to wash them of carbon buildup.
From what I was told, the programming does nothing other than allow the cylinder temperatures to rise higher than originally programmed in an attempt to burn off carbon deposits. Sadly, changing the injector cycle does nothing to help stave off carbon buildup, as the problem area is the backs of the valve, a place the injector isn't able to spray due to the nature of the DI system.
i will be tuned before i ever get to the turbo replacement. and im getting the manic tune with the switch so ill be able to switch tunes after i get a new hybrid turbo.
extending the duration of the injector pulse to wash the valves would make the car run rich. so are they moving the injector pulse event further along the intake stroke? i have read everything i can find on the internet about this and have never seen any mention of this before. i saw a bunch of questions about it, but no one else has posted anything i could find.
are you a bmw or mini dealer tech?
i have never seafoamed anything, but i have used top engine cleaner and tranny fluid mixed with water on thousands of cars since the late 80's with great results. i have replaced my fair share of valve stem seals on small block chevys as well.
i spent many years as a dealer tech and a few as a driveability/smog inspection tech in cali. albeit on the "technologically deficient" g.m. cars
Yes I think I'll be able to help fix your problem from your statement. Just hang on for a couple years while I attempt to figure out what the heck you're getting on about.
My wife was driving to work this morning and the Yellow engine light came on - Full engine power no longer available - was what it is. It's a 2008 Clubman S with around 45,000 miles and gets good gas and is parked in a garage. I'm going to call a local shop that does work on MINI's later this morning - I'm just wondering what the usual problems are with this warning?
You would have to read the code, limp mode can be anything in the engine. I would have them or you tow it and get it read. In the future if you want to DIY or just know whats going on , get the schwaben Scan tool it will pick up all the MINI codes and stored codes. I really like it. Saves from having it read at the dealership or shop.
My wife says her car runs fine - it's just the light is on. She is bringing it back home on her break to switch cars to her Highlander, and then I need to decide what I'm going to do with it. Hopefully it's not too expensive!
Thanks, it great to know whats going on before the shop looks into it. The limp mode can be something like a HPFP fail to a non mechanical failure. I would not drive on it long. Best to get it checked out asap.
Thanks, it great to know whats going on before the shop looks into it. The limp mode can be something like a HPFP fail to a non mechanical failure. I would not drive on it long. Best to get it checked out asap.
let me know what they find.
That tool will be on my want to own list.
I will take it to a shop that's about two miles away very slowly. I'll report back what they find.
My wife was driving to work this morning and the Yellow engine light came on - Full engine power no longer available - was what it is. It's a 2008 Clubman S with around 45,000 miles and gets good gas and is parked in a garage. I'm going to call a local shop that does work on MINI's later this morning - I'm just wondering what the usual problems are with this warning?
Limp mode and reduced engine power output will result from a half filled check engine light indicator. Pulling those codes will give you the next step to diagnose the issue as it could be a number of things. Sometimes things as simple as plugs or other things a bit more complex. Good luck and report back with your findings after visiting the shop.
There were two lights on at one time - the yellow engine light and the yellow service light. They ran a check on the computer and they said the yellow service light was because the rear brake pads were getting close to needing to be replaced - around 1,000 miles, and the yellow engine light was a cylinder misfire - and may need a walnut blasting in the future.
The codes were cleared and the car runs fine - he also told me to tell my wife to take it out once in awhile and run it hard.
There were two lights on at one time - the yellow engine light and the yellow service light. They ran a check on the computer and they said the yellow engine light was because the rear brake pads were getting close to needing to be replaced - around 1,000 miles, and the yellow engine light was a cylinder misfire - and may need a walnut blasting in the future.
The codes were cleared and the car runs fine - he also told me to tell my wife to take it out once in awhile and run it hard.
I want to thank you guys for your help!
You're welcome. Yes, carbon build up happens quicker for cars that sit or take short trips. Otherwise, just about every 50,000 miles is when the cleaning should be done to maintain optimal engine performance. Anyways, glad it's all fixed up and you're enjoying your MINI once again.
I will take it to a shop that's about two miles away very slowly. I'll report back what they find.
Originally Posted by CA94960
There were two lights on at one time - the yellow engine light and the yellow service light. They ran a check on the computer and they said the yellow service light was because the rear brake pads were getting close to needing to be replaced - around 1,000 miles, and the yellow engine light was a cylinder misfire - and may need a walnut blasting in the future.
The codes were cleared and the car runs fine - he also told me to tell my wife to take it out once in awhile and run it hard.
I want to thank you guys for your help!
You are welcome, glad to help. Get that Tool on the wish list Glad it looks like a carbon issue. Once they scope it they will know.
I am having a particularly annoying issue right now. My low power mode light (half yellow engine light) comes on after about the second turbo spin-up. After it lights, the turbo will not engage. The light will clear when the car is off for a while. I have a Carista scan tool and use the OBD Fusion app to check codes. No codes are listed even when the light is on.
The car is a 2009 Mini JCW hard top.
Plugs replaced about 2000 miles ago.
Topside O2 sensor replaced 2500 miles ago.
Replaced the turbo inlet pipe about 1500 miles ago with an OEM part.
I did have a misfire code come in for cylinder 3 after the plug replacement. Fixed when I remade all the connections for that plug.
The caritsa works good for the basics and coding windows and such. The schwaben scan tool above is much more in-depth and you can test things. I would get the schwaeben and scan it, it's on sale right now. I used it on mine and it pulls up much more than carista.
I am having a particularly annoying issue right now. My low power mode light (half yellow engine light) comes on after about the second turbo spin-up. After it lights, the turbo will not engage. The light will clear when the car is off for a while. I have a Carista scan tool and use the OBD Fusion app to check codes. No codes are listed even when the light is on.
The car is a 2009 Mini JCW hard top.
Plugs replaced about 2000 miles ago.
Topside O2 sensor replaced 2500 miles ago.
Replaced the turbo inlet pipe about 1500 miles ago with an OEM part.
I did have a misfire code come in for cylinder 3 after the plug replacement. Fixed when I remade all the connections for that plug.
I have a 2009 r56 JCW with the half yellow engine light on (limp mode). No codes are being triggered. The light will clear and restore normal boost for a few pulls then back into limp mode. Did a lot of research since I know nothing about turbos. I have a simple code reader that will also display operating parameters.
1) During normal boost I was getting 15.8 psi before limp mode activated.
2) Air pressures and temps looked normal.
3) Fuel bank pressure was normal.
4) No loose pipes.
5) changed the oil.
6) Replaced the O2 sensors within last 1000 miles.
7) Noticed an unusual boost release sound when not in limp mode.
8) Took off the diverter valve and the insides crumbled in my hand. PROBLEM FOUND!!!!
9) Ordered an OEM replacement for $65 with shipping.
So, I did not need to replace anything very expensive or go through extensive cleaning.
If you are having the same issue, take off the diverter valve and look at it. It takes less than 10 minutes to get it off once you figure out what and where it is located.
New too Minis here, I have a 2011 Mini Cooper S JCW (about 100k miles) that I have had for all of 6 days now, and put about 250 miles on it. I also just got this half CEL while on the freeway going pretty fast. No noticeable power lost but I also didn't push it but I did drive home. I have a scanner, that works fine on my other cars, but is only getting an error on the Mini. I guess my question is what the best way to figure out what is going on with the car? Im not really trying to spend $200 on a scanner for a car I've had only 6 days, just to find out how much I need to spend to fix it. Am i being unreasonable?
I reset the light and it hasn't come back on. Power is and has been normal. Light came on on the freeway on a very hot day.
Any insight or suggestions to this? Having this happen less than a week after getting the car has made me skiddish to even want to drive it. It sits at home more days than it doesn't now and its sad and frustrating all at the same time.
I have a 2009 r56 JCW with the half yellow engine light on (limp mode). No codes are being triggered. The light will clear and restore normal boost for a few pulls then back into limp mode. Did a lot of research since I know nothing about turbos. I have a simple code reader that will also display operating parameters.
1) During normal boost I was getting 15.8 psi before limp mode activated.
2) Air pressures and temps looked normal.
3) Fuel bank pressure was normal.
4) No loose pipes.
5) changed the oil.
6) Replaced the O2 sensors within last 1000 miles.
7) Noticed an unusual boost release sound when not in limp mode.
8) Took off the diverter valve and the insides crumbled in my hand. PROBLEM FOUND!!!!
9) Ordered an OEM replacement for $65 with shipping.
So, I did not need to replace anything very expensive or go through extensive cleaning.
If you are having the same issue, take off the diverter valve and look at it. It takes less than 10 minutes to get it off once you figure out what and where it is located.
I have a similar problem. I just got a 2011 JCW, 45000 miles. Had the car a couple months and love it.
where is the diverter valve located? Here is what I tried so far...
1. read OBD...no codes indicated...seems ridiculous that there are no codes.
2. so thought it might be the gas cap.
just checked it and it looks good....put it back on and light still on.
3. it does NOT come on right away, but after a few minutes it comes on
4. recently, I hit a monster pot hole...rattled my fillings and I lost a front running light bulb but now I am wondering if this is related.
Is there a sequence that folks have used to check other potential causes?
I took the car on a small road trip to the Oregon coast to see the eclipse. I had been starting to suspect that the light was showing up once per gas tank. I have been watching this closely and I was pretty sure I was right and would get 1 light after (not always immediately after) each fill up. But on my last (3rd of this trip) fill up, the light came on, it typically stays on for an hour or two, maybe 100 - 150 miles then goes away, but it came on again for the 2nd time in one fill up. I was hoping I had it narrowed down, but now I'm left still searching.
Also had the brake pad warning on this trip, which I found annoying that it tells you to replace the pads, but not if its the front or back ones.
So my stats to date with about 2 months of ownership is 7 check engine lights, and 1 brake pad wear light. Impressive that I've owned cars for nearly 8 years without boasting stats anywhere close to these.
I'm having the exact same symptoms as you with the same codes on my 13 MCS. So far I've checked that the turbo and waste gate works properly, replaced the diverter valve, replaced MAP and pressure/temp sensor on the intake. Limp mode light seems to show up more when engine is under load in a higher gears, (like going up an incline in fifth or sixth gear). The only other component I need to check is the boost pressure converter underneath the intake manifold.
Glad it looks like a carbon issue. Once they scope it they will know.
