Just went thru the same thing with my wife's '12 MCS. About a month ago, the CEL came on with reduced power. It wasn't limp mode, felt more like we lost boost. Next time we started it, CEL was gone, full power. A few days ago, happened again. I ran my scanner on it, no codes. So, finally took it into the dealer. They were able to pull codes 2C58 and 2DA2. Apparently they are BMW codes my scanner can't pull. They replaced exhaust side VANOS solenoid. So far is working fine.

That said, unless you can pull the codes, you're shooting in the dark.

 

thanks guys

 

This issue was happening on my car. Turns out it was the HIGH PRESSURE fuel pump. Replaced under extended warranty that Mini did for this issue. If I recall this issue since it was the pump was covered up to 120k miles.

 

had the cooling system flushed while they had it.

 

I've got a 2008 Clubman S and I've had the CEL and limp mode problem a few times for the past 2 winters. I live in Ottawa, Canada and it gets pretty cold here. I have not correlated the problem to outside temp or humidity, although I would say it has only happened when it is below -10C or -15C. The car is parked outside overnight and the problem has usually occurred in the morning when I go and start it to drive to work. Usually warming it up, and driving a few KM in limp mode, then stopping for a coffee and letting it sit for a while and restarting a few times will clear the light and limp mode. Obviously not very convenient and ridiculous that this has not been covered under a recall.
What is the part number for the revised intake manifold, how much does it cost and how difficult is it to replace? I'm certainly not paying the dealer to do it.
Thanks, ..Roger

 

They did a pressure test of some sort on my fuel pump. That was causing much the same issue as you Roger. The pump is covered to 120k, prob is on your 08 also. I would have them (dealer) look at it.

 

Hi everyone. I've owned my 09 clubman s since the end of Feb '14. A few weeks ago I drove it up to Connecticut and the half full yellow engine light came on. I noticed an immediate change in power, and had a hard time driving up the hills in the area. I drove it back to my hotel to check all of the levels, and realized that my oil dipstick was near dry. I stupidly did not check my oil before leaving for the trip the day before. I refilled the oil 2 qts. and the car's power seemed to return at least to 75%. I was able to drive the car back to my house in NY. I have not had the car looked at at the dealer because MINI is charging $170/hr. to diagnose. Does anyone have any ideas as to what could be wrong with my car?! Thank you!

 

I doubt oil is the issue (wag finger here for not checking your oil regularly), as low oil pressure from low oil would have meant engine bearing death.

Does your car barely idle? Are your tailpipes BLACK with soot? If so, I suspect your high pressure fuel pump failed. I actually hope that's the case, as that's an emissions warranty issue (that you should still be covered for).

 

Wow that's scary, you most likely have cause serious wear and tear going through those hills low on oil. The thing with used Mini Coopers is if the previous owner ran the engine for a time while low on oil and the fact that most don't know about the excessive oil consumption rate early on in it's life. How many miles are on it?

 

Do you have a check engine light on? You did have a half-power light and that may have left a stored code in the computer. You need to car read for codes. Unfortunately the generic code reader can read the MINI specific codes. But it is worth a try to drive to an auto parts store and get them to hook up a reader (they usually do this for free). With out codes people are just spit balling.

You can also take the car to a independent shop that specializes in MINIs. They are usually much more affordable than the dealer.

 

@pmsummer here is a picture of my tailpipes would you consider those to be covered in soot? My car is fine at idle..it doesn't make any strange noises or movements. Honestly, the car seems fine except that it is driving slightly different and every time i sit in it i see a picture of that yellow engine on the tachometer. I just can't put my finger on what is wrong with the car...i notice that it doesn't seem to have that turbo feel it had before. Do you still think it could be the boost pressure sensor?

@systemlord there are over 100,000 miles on the car.

@cerenkov when the engine light first turned on i took it to auto zone and their machine said "OK". It was not able to read for a code. I may have codes stored on the OEM, but am unsure how to access them. The half filled yellow engine light seems to be all that pops up.

 

To pull BMW specific codes. Use BMWhat software on a smart phone with a cheap ODB WiFi.

 

You definitely have to get the code read. Trying to troubleshoot without the code is a futile endeavor.

 

Just to show you that sooo many things can create this issue. Yellow half-engine light comes on while accelerating. No boost. No codes thrown. Problem was that vacuum hose between the vacuum box and the turbo wastegate dashpot had popped off.

 

Update:

I took my mini to be serviced at Hassel Mini in Freeport, NY, and they just called to let me know the bad news. My turbo charger is seizing and it is a $3300 fix They offered to contact MINI to see if they could come down in price or do something for me, but they had to keep the car overnight. They will notify me tomorrow if they can go down in price...right now I'm speechless and hoping my dad or a friendly mechanic can fix this for $500..is that too much to ask!!??

 

You can get it done cheaper. You can get Turbos cheaper. There may be associated parts that would be advisable to swap out while you are there, like the oil pipes. You may even have a bad cat caused by the turbo. You will get more bang for your buck away from the dealer. The job is fairly time consuming but you can get decent refurbed turbos for under $800. I bet you could save a grand or more anyway.

 

Before I'd spend $3,300 I would get a second opinion and a lot more details on how they came to that conclusion.

A brand new turbo is about $1200.

 

what do you mean by "a bad cat"?

 

I definitely will.

 

can anyone recommend reputable websites to buy a turbo charger from?

 

JMTC

 

Way Motor Works has them for $1100.

http://www.waymotorworks.com/stock-c...8-r59-r60.html

If it really is your turbocharger then this is something that you can do yourself if you are little handy and have the work space and tools.

 

A bad or partially restricted catalytic converter from a bad turbo dumping garbage out the exhaust pipe.

 

Update:

Decided to do the work myself. Dad and I have removed turbocharger along with the connected exhaust manifold, and the cat. I purchased a new turbocharger for $875 from buyautoparts.com , along with $160 diagnosis from mini, $155 for new oil pipes and gasket, and $77 from miniofsouthatlanta.com for new bolts, studs, gaskets,etc. I've spent around $1300 so far without replacing the cat. I'm not sure if the cat was the reason for the turbo going bad seeing as the wheel inside the turbo wiggled a bit and their was noticeable scraping of the turbo wall around the wheel. I'm not sure if this was the only reason the turbo went bad. In order to save money and not replace my cat does anyone have suggestions on how to clean it?? Thanks

 

The cat can't be cleaned, you should replace it. From some of the reading I've done, a bad turbo can cause the cat to go bad. If you don't replace it, you could damage the new turbo..