I've got a 2010 MC auto (built November 2010) - around 1000 miles on the odometer. Does this problem affect non S models?

I've had 2 instances of half-solid yellow CELs and no engine power. Both first thing in the morning at -13 C (around 9 Fahrenheit). I park outside on a slight incline with the engine pointing uphill.

The first time I stopped the car and waited 10 minutes, restarted and the problem went away.

The second day it took a few engine restarts before I got to a CEL where I could drive the car. I'm taking it to the dealer on Monday - they said they have had another person call about a similar problem, but they didn't say what it may be.

 

This is interesting because this should not affect non-S cars.

 

Hey all. Not sure this is the right forum, but we'll see. Purchased a Scangauge II a few days back. Noticed my water temp sits at 225F during entire drive. Decreases when I hit the gas. I know there are multiple forums, but I am just looking for a no BS temp for optimum water temp. Does 225 seem normal. Outside temp during drives are never above 68F. Thanks in advance.

 

My Scangauge II consistently shows 220F when at full operating temperature.

 

See, that's interesting. Going to reset it today. Maybe I have a faulty reading for some reason. Spoke to a BMW mechanic yesterday when I was ordering my armrest, and he was under the impression that if it stayed at 225 pretty much all the time, then it should be normal, but he stated that he did not have a manual or reference to see what the no-**** normal operating temp should be. Strange.

 

Well, sadly and strangely it nice and warm/hot out now and i'm getting yellow engine code. My car seems like its going to stall when idling and it actually has a few times. I don't have my scanreader yet, but as soon as I get it, I will post codes.
I have noticed with my new 4 port manifold hoses seem to collapse when my car is running. I'm not sure if thats part of the problem, but my car is going in in 2 weeks and I hope to find out then.

 

I had this issue recently gettling low power warning light. Took to dealership and it turned out to be a malfunctining turbo waste gate.

 

Hi everyone... My 2009 Clubman S is one week shy of being one year old, and I'm frustrated that it's having CEL problems already! :-(

Basically first thing in the morning when I start my car up to go to work I get the yellow engine light. The first few times it flashed, but then it's become a solid yellow outline light. It happened two weeks ago when I started the car first time in the morning. On about the third morning it did this I called Mini of Nashville. They told me it was okay to drive it, but to limit trips and speed. But to schedule service.

Got it to the dealership on Monday this week and they checked it - telling me the problem was clogged fuel injectors due to low quality gas. I've put Premium into it every single fill up since I bought it. The Service Advisor asked where I buy my gas - 99% at Costco or Sams. He said that was the problem and recommends exclusively buying from Shell or BP. (The last time I filled up before this CEL came on, I filled up at Wal Mart - again with Premium gas - because I was in a bind and had no other option.

Mini paperwork says: "Found combustion misfiring fault due to clogging of the injector tips. Is causing a disturbance of the fuel spray pattern." They did injection cleaning and gave me a bottle of "BMW Group Fuel System Cleaner Plus" to add to my tank the next time I fill up.

Well, I drove the car home on Tuesday from Nashville (I'm in North Alabama) and had no problems. Yesterday (Thurs) I got the same yellow CEL again. Again this morning, same thing... and then again after work CEL again (this is the first time it's done it in the afternoon)!

I'm frustrated - could the heat be doing this? We've been in the mid-90s to over 100 every day for at least a month now. I park outside at home (we've just finished building a garage this week - thank goodness) and at work - so my poor mini is baking all the time in this heat.

Anyone have any insight? Is the gas quality the real problem? Everyone I've spoken to (friends, co-workers) think it's not the real culprit. Or is it something bigger than that? I've called Mini of Nashville again, and am waiting to hear back from the SA.

 

Hi, folks.

I thought I'd revisit this thread, since I haven't read it since my 2009 MINI Cooper S stopped having its cold start issue. *see post #325 *

I'm amazed to hear folks having the issue even after the manifold is replaced and also in higher temps. My issue happened only when the weather dropped below 20 degrees F. I'd probably had my car all of a few weeks when it happend the first time and the second time a fault code was stored. I got the manifold replaced and *knock wood* it's been fine ever since.

I'll keep reading the thread with interest, and hoping everyone here finds the fix he/she deserves!

 

Did they have to replace your turbo? Or fix the waste gate somehow?

 

I'm having the same problems in my 2007 Mini Cooper S (John Cooper Works edition with turbo charger). But I live in Los Angeles. I had this problem in March and now again. First time(march), they replaced the turbo charger, oil pipe and gaskets. One week later it was back in the shop. They removed the intake manifold and found excess carbon deposits and miss-fires on 4 cylinders. They removed manifold and cleaned carbon deposits. Now its november and the car has had the same problem twice this month. Took the car in again and they say its miss-firing cylinders because of carbon deposits again. They suggest another carbon cleaning with carbon blast machine ($1200).

Does this seem like the same problem everyone else is having? Its always in the morning...same light coming on and same weird idle. I dont know anything about cars, but I cant believe I'm gonna have to pay $1200 for this carbon cleaning again!

 

You shouldn't have to pay again for the carbon cleaning at all. It's a known defect that was fixed on my '07 after a factory replacement / upgrade to the camshaft cover / engine sump breather system. I don't have the part numbers or upgrade info but that's what I was told was done to mine & the problem went away.

There was a problem with the original crankcase breather system that put way too much oil mist back into the cylinders, causing the carbon build-up. The upgraded parts resolved the problem & is what you need to ask for.

The dealership I had mine repaired by is in Schaumburg, Illinois. Service phone's (877) 596-0404. Give them a call or tell your dealer to contact them.

 

The updated valve cover comes with a check valve. It will not fix the carbon issue as the MY 08-10 have the new updated valve cover and still have issues...

 

I'm not sure the camshaft cover was all that was changed; that was the only part that was specifically mentioned when I enquired what all had been done in the 10 days it was in their shop... besides the carbon removal & gasket replacement upon reassembly.

I recall a new intake manifold part being spoken of but they didn't have one for my S (they'd seen two in all & said they were in short supply as it was a recently redesigned part) & I was told if the problem resurfaced that's what they'd change next.

Over a span of eight months I had the same problem reoccur four times, all during or shortly after extreme changes in ambient outdoor humidity coupled with temps at or below freezing. It's been 45,000 miles or more since it was resolved early in 2008.

There may be more than one explanation for the excess carbon build-up evidenced by the new engine design. I wanted only to relate what may have cured it in my vehicle.

 

Can't wait for a permanent fix for this issue, most of the S models will have this issue within 50k miles, and it will continue to happen.

 

'Kay...I'm a bit confused. I had the problem with moisture freezing and the yellow light/low power happening below 20 degrees F and they changed the manifold and it's been fine since.

Are you saying that I may be in for an additional issue? This carbon buildup issue is something different? I have an 09 Mini Cooper S. Is there any chance they redesigned the part/fixed the issue prior to the 2009 model year? *wishful thinking*

Thanks to all. I'm learnin'!

 

If condensation freezing in the throttle body is the culprit, would installing a small heating element or something similar to an oil pan heater right on the throttle body prevent ice from forming. Has anyone tried this or is this not feasible? Just a thought.

 

The short answer is "yes;" this kind of thing is often done on small, piston-engine-powered aircraft; it's known as carburetor heat. I don't think that it's commonly used in automobiles, though.

 

My brand new 2010 R56 MCS with only 1100 miles on it, had the terrible yellow engine light on this morning. This is my 2nd r56 and I can't believe that MINI has not fixed this terrible problem.
Time to bring it in already for the same problem as my old 2007 R56 MCS had every winter.

Scott.

 

^ amazing.....

I hope it gets fixed soon.

 

how do you know it's the same problem?

 

Because I had a 2007 MCS that had the same problem many times every winter.

Come on mini, fix this extremely common problem.

 

My 2009 ClubmanS is in the shop today for the same issue. But, they told me it was due to a faulty timing chain tensioner, which caused damage to the timing belt. Under warrantee, fixed on their dime so no biggie I guess. I was looking on the boards hoping to find more info and found this thread.

 

Just had my 2008 CooperS Clubman in this week. They replaced the intake manifold with a new design that has better venting which allows dissipation of the condensation.

I'm sure I'm imagining things, but the engine seems a little "freer revving"...

All good so far!

 

bentyyc
Did the dealer call you in to have it done as a recall or did you tell them you had a problem. I have learned to brush the light snow off the scoop before starting the engine and so far with the 6 foot of snow I haven't had a problem.
thanks CJ