Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S(R56), and Cabrio (R57).

Bonnet opener pull release broke!

Old Jun 24, 2007 | 06:01 PM
  #1  
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Bonnet opener pull release broke!

It finally broke ,it always felt like it would and it snapped today when I tried to open it.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2007 | 11:55 PM
  #2  
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Yeah, I thought that part felt a little weaker than it should.

If it's any consolation, the 1 gen. was no better. I have 2 friends with R53's who've done the same thing. Aren't warranties great, though?
 
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Old Jun 26, 2007 | 07:41 AM
  #3  
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From: South Florida.
One thing I would recommend doing, is to apply a little white grease to all latch and pull friction surfaces. Makes a big difference, as they come dry from the factory.
 
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Old Jun 26, 2007 | 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by djam43
One thing I would recommend doing, is to apply a little white grease to all latch and pull friction surfaces. Makes a big difference, as they come dry from the factory.
+1 I agree, I did this, and the latch requires much less pressure to open.
 
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Old Jun 26, 2007 | 08:08 AM
  #5  
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So, How was it fixed, has it been fixed?
For that matter how do you check the motor?
 
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Old Jun 26, 2007 | 08:34 AM
  #6  
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Broken cable, no problem..

If your cable breaks or if the cable comes off the bracket "catch" under the hood, you can open the hood by taking off you front wheels and removing the forward inner fender. Now just reach in and unlock the hood.
 
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Old Jun 26, 2007 | 10:41 AM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by MCS03
If your cable breaks or if the cable comes off the bracket "catch" under the hood, you can open the hood by taking off you front wheels and removing the forward inner fender. Now just reach in and unlock the hood.
Easy as that huh'? Just think, now you will have something to do when you fill up, as opposed to simply popping and checking and going
 
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Old Jun 26, 2007 | 12:36 PM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by rajron
So, How was it fixed, has it been fixed?
For that matter how do you check the motor?
I took it in this morning ,I could not open to check the motor,kind of scary if theres a fire or it overheats.My Bonnet gets real hot so when I pulled into the garage I would sometimes open it .Service adviser said he never heard of the hood getting to hot?He could'nt keep his hand on it long and it was'nt as hot as normal.
The cd dash compartment is a recall for ours that are shut so they'll be doing that.I've got an occasional 3rd to 2nd groaning they want to look at.
I have ASC only and no hill assist he'll see if thats correct , and my arm rest seems to be coming apart some yarn like stuff hanging out the back end.
They gave me a 325 i for a loaner ,I'd take the MINI over it any day plus there was old lady perfume on the seat belt strap so strong I had to drive with the sun roof open.The 325i drives no better than my wifes Honda Accord,it is smooth though almost nodded off coming home.
 
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Old Jun 26, 2007 | 02:07 PM
  #9  
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It happened to me yesterday, i was going to check my new intake but the thing broke . gonna see the service today. My hood is also overheated but i guess all r56's are same.
 

Last edited by Murathan; Jun 26, 2007 at 02:11 PM.
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Old Jun 26, 2007 | 02:20 PM
  #10  
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They just called ,it's the spring that came undone they reset it ,hot hood is normal ,overnight stay for cd compartment parts and repair.Thats a tiny little spring were relying on for access to our engine!
 
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Old Jul 2, 2007 | 08:41 AM
  #11  
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I guess you guys never had a turbo car before. The hood being hot is normal. This will be my third turbo car and they all get very hot under the hood. Definitely put some grease on it or spray the hood latch so when you pull the cheap plastic handle to open the hood it won't break off. It's usually the spring that breaks. As soon as mine comes in, I'm going to spray the hood latch with some white lightning. It's a very good lubricant for hood latches and door latches.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2007 | 04:44 PM
  #12  
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I greased it and now that I no the hot hood is normal it will stay closed until the computer tells me otherwise.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2014 | 02:39 PM
  #13  
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The hood release lever on my 2010 MCS broke today. (Yes, I am regretting not lubricating the cable and latches. Fair warning.) In my case it was the plastic lever itself that failed. I ordered a new lever assembly. It looks like I'll have to remove the kick panel to get at it. Does anyone know how to remove the panel?
 
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Old Sep 25, 2014 | 12:36 PM
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The kick panel is held in with clips, You can pull on the panel near the font to pop it out.

#1



Watch those little clips as they like to snap off. There are a bunch of them on that main panel.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/51437048911/ES2723214/



We have the full kit here:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...hood-help.html



Thanks
 
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Old Sep 25, 2014 | 04:55 PM
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Wow. Great. Thanks.
 
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Old Sep 26, 2014 | 05:37 AM
  #16  
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If you have one of those trim removal tools that will make your life a little easier. The little clips are a pain but what is more of a pain is when the panel itself tears out instead of the clip pulling out. Other than that it's not a particularly difficult operation. Just a little awkward because seat/steering wheel/pedals/etc. in the way.

 
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Old Sep 26, 2014 | 05:52 AM
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You are welcome.

Yes, a trim tool makes it easier.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/Trim_Tool_Schwaben/




And helpful for any other trim removal.
 
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Old Sep 27, 2014 | 09:23 AM
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Complete success. 20 minute job - didn't even break a clip. Good call on the trim tools. Thanks, again. Saved me $88 at the dealer.

And, yes, I lubed the latches. You should too.
 
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Old Sep 27, 2014 | 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by cjny
Complete success. 20 minute job - didn't even break a clip. Good call on the trim tools. Thanks, again. Saved me $88 at the dealer.

And, yes, I lubed the latches. You should too.
Anytime you don't shop at a dealer you almost always save money.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2014 | 06:15 AM
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cjny - great news.
 
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