Copied from the 1st gear section with edits:

My daughter will be turning "sour" 16 soon, she's got a sassy attitude/mouth on her, and I wanted to get her a first car that she will always remember. My first car was an beater Chevy Caprice Classic that guzzled gas, but had a huge back seat that I recall very fondly . I don't want that for my little girl, so I just purchased a 2006 MCS in Chili Red with 165K miles for $2800 but she drives like a newish car. Going to fix it up and give it to her. Really don't care for the color, but the condition, the ride, and the price was right. I've test driven quite a few MCSs and this one was the best so far. No rattles or squeaks. You can really tell that the car has spent it's life in a garage, the rubber seals and trim around the windshield, sunroof and the rain gutters along the perimeter of the roof are in great condition. The paint, aside from the several paint chips, is great. There is one small door ding in the passenger's rear quarter panel, but that is about it. Wheels have light curbing rash but tires are non-run flats, Potenzas, have plenty of life left.

Original owner is an airline pilot who took good care of it for his wife. Clutch is 1.5 years old, newish brakes, serpentine belt and tensioner, and battery, oil changed every 5K miles with synthetic. PS pump replaced. Oil pan gasket changed twice. Have had it in the garage for a few days and nothing dripping on the floor yet. Car came with an extra rim that was rashed, 3 BMW oil filters and some sort of brake sensor.

One of the rear speakers doesn't work and the vanity mirror covers are droopy and have to be held up for the light to come on. My daughter likes to look at herself . The headliner has a few spots that are bubbling up but that is to be expected. Driver's seat bottom has a crack that has developed.

Was installing a trickle charger lead to the battery to get the battery up to full charge so that I can do the compression test and noticed that there is some dampness on the passenger's side rear deck at the upper portion of the trunk. Need to address this as well. The rubber seals around the hatch are perfect so I guess I'll need to probe the weeps.

Plan on changing the oil, brake fluid, and fix above problems. Address some paint chips on the hood and refinish the headlights to fix the slight hazing. I'll probably take it the stealership to see what else it needs before I hand it over to her.

Car rides really well, the suspension is still taunt. Supercharger gives the car some pep.

228 Sports Suspension Settings Plus
255 Sports Leather Steering Wheel
262 Head Airbag
441 Smokers Package
463 Interior Surface Alloy Patina
470 Child Seat Isofix Attachment
481 Sport Seats F Driver/front Passenger
493 Storage Compartment Package
530 Air Conditioning
546 Revolution Counter
563 Lights Package
657 Radio Boost
736 Second Radio Remote Control Key
823 Hot Climate Version
845 Acoustic Belt Warning
853 Language Version English
876 Radio Frequency 315 Mhz
992 Number Plate Attachement Management


Options
1CA Selection Cop Relevant Vehicles
2RE L-all. W. Web Spoke/runflat
210 Dynamic Stability Control (dsc)
249 Multi-function For Steering Wheel
327 White Bonnet Stripes
345 Chrome Line Interior
382 Roof And Mirror Caps In White
403 Glas Roof, Electric
450 Height Adjustment F Front Passenger Seat
473 Armrest, Front
5AA Rear Fog Lamp
520 Foglights
522 Xenon Light
645 Radio Control Us
650 Cd Player
692 Cd Changer I-bus Preparation
8SP Cop Control
895 Additional Ventilator
925 Shipping Protection Package

Sorry, don't know why some of these pics are upside down, but they are oriented correctly on my desktop.

 

That's a great looking car . . and a great price that you got it for!!

 

Thanks. I just knew it was a great deal as soon as I drove it. Talking with the previous owner you get the sense that he is a details kind of guy. I could probably turn around and sell it for almost twice what I paid in my local market.

 

Congrats on the great deal, nice MINI!

 

Before you take it to a shop, do a little asking around for a top BMW/MINI independent. The big difference between an indie and a dealer is that an indie will analyze and correct a problem where dealerships just throw new parts at it and hope that cured it. I guarantee that that airline pilot did a preflight walk around on it at least every week and always before he fired it up. Those guys don't like parts falling off halfway to the destination.

 

Good deal. Indy would be the best. I see two things that are really good, the webspoke BBS wheels and the Motoring Hearts badge on the back. The Motoring hearts badge it rare and is NLA, it was just given out for events most of the time.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...l-100-a-4.html

 

I was going to take it in just to get a estimate of what needs to be done. I can do most things on my vehicles.

 

Wow, great looking car for that price. You did not have pictures on the 1st gear post.

Did you detail it or did it come like that?

 

It came in better condition. I've put about 200 miles on it and you can see some dirt/pollen on the hatch and grime on the dressing compound that was used in the engine compartment. It looks nice but drives like a newish car. Like I said I could turn around and sell it for almost twice what I paid.

 

That looks like a great car! Your daughter will be one lucky girl. You going to teach her the three pedal car first. Awesome.

We just have 1 year on our project car. My son's car really. It's a 2005, but your purchase looks like the way better deal.

If you've spent some time reading this forum, you'll quickly figure out the usual wear and tear items. It's an 11 year old car so it's likely going to need some TLC no matter what. Just depends on your tolerance for how reliable you want it. My test is always whether or not I can jump in the car and go where ever no matter what.

For the dampness in the rear. It's likely the third brake light. My son and I chased this for nearly 6 months by the time we were left with only that light. It literally separated into two when we started removing it. Easy to replace and no more leak.

Your power steering reservoir looks like it needs a new seal. Again, super easy to replace and very inexpensive. Keeps the reservoir from getting all grungy and messy.

Otherwise, enjoy! Get your daughter involved with the car so she'll know when things aren't quite right. Might save you some $$ by catching things early instead of getting that dreaded phone call @ 11:30pm saying she's stuck and her phone battery is almost dead...

Enjoy!

 

Congrats on a great-looking car at an even greater price. Don't know where you're located but I heartily recommend that you investigate and enroll your daughter in a BMW CCA Street Survival School Driving School as soon as possible. You and she will both benefit. She needs to learn her...and the car's...limitations.

 

Seriously consider replacing the expansion tank with a metal one. The OEM tank will eventually split at the seam. It's an easy swap and the cap just moves over. Water enough over the baffle to wet the tip of the finger when the engine is cold is just right since you can't see thru the tank. You don't need to drain the system, just empty the tank with a baster and save the water.

 

Thanks for the 3rd brake light tip, will look into it. As for the PS reservoir, the guys that detailed the engine used this dressing compound that makes it look like it is leaking. I don't think it is. The hose is dry.
If I have anything to do with it, my daughter won't be out at 11:30 , but if she is I'll be the chauffeur.

Thanks, I'll keep an eye out for a used one in the classifieds.

 

Hey, thanks for this. I didn't mention in my 1st gear thread, but I noticed last weekend that my jack and toolkit were swimming (R50... I should have been so lucky to score a deal like this thread. Cheaper than I grabbed my R50, but more miles). I did see a bit of water along the bottom edge of my hatch panel, but I was assuming it was a failed gasket behind the hatch handle. I never would have thought about the 3rd brake light.

 

Also, check the drain holes at the bottom of the hatch. There are two. When we checked, both were plugged with crud.

 

GREAT CAR
GREAT PRICE
GREAT COLOR !!!!!!!

Good Luck.....if you are driving it....MAYBE....you'll keep for yourself !!!!!!

SO much FUN !!!!!!

 

I thought you were going to say until she changes, no car for her. My 15 y/o would be getting a bus token from me if she acted poorly. Confused?


Nice car anyway!

 

Just saw metal tanks on ebay for $52.00--great price. As Fly'n says a weekly preflight will make the difference. Also be gentle with oil dipstick. If it breaks it can cost $$$ if it falls into the oil pan. This is not a gas and go Asian car. If you take care of your R53, it will take care of you. Good luck and congrats.

 

I've raised her to be strong willed, self-confident, and self-dependant. So the b*tchness is sort of a by-product that I can live with.

I saw those tanks and they look to be made in China. I really don't want to fork out the dough for the $160 made in America ones. Wish there was something made in the US that was cheaper.

Well I spoke too soon. Was going to do an oil change and spotted an oil leak on the driver's side of the engine compartment toward the grill and a couple drops on the passenger's side closer to the firewall. My guess is the crank position sensor o-ring and oil filter housing gasket are the culprits. Will need to get under the car this weekend and have a look.

If I have to pull the front end off and do the o-ring is there anything else I should do while I'm there? Was thinking about servicing the supercharger oil, replacing water pump, of course new coolant, may be dipstick o ring?

 

Beautiful car and a great deal it seems like. My R53 was my first car too. Its a great car to learn on because its so small, easy to park and has great visibility. Good move on the manual also, I really think that forces you to learn better driving habits. Its much harder to text and drive when you need to watch the revs and shift! Best of luck with everything.

 

All you young folks need to put down the electronics; that is exactly why I got my daughter the manual.

 

Finally had a chance to do the compression test and get the car in the air. Here is a pic of the plugs from cylinders 1-4 from left to right:


My crappy Harbor Freight compression tester read 120 across all cylinders. Take that for what it is worth. Car drives great, so I think that number is low by at least 10-15 psi.

Also noticed that the passenger's side strut bushing has failed as compared to the driver's side:



I was only 50% right when it can to the oil leaks. Turns out the the oil filter housing gasket was leaking, but the other was coming from the driver's side outer cv boot. Can't really see a tear, but oil is/was being flung from it all around that side. Have a new cv axle and oil filter housing gasket coming in the mail. Still trying to decide what to do with the suspension. Should I replace all strut tops only or do the tops with new struts and old springs vs sportier shocks and springs with a very mild drop. Really don't want to compromise the ride on this car as it will not be seeing any autocrossing etc.

 

Plugs look good!

Replace both strut bearings. If you're going to be tearing the struts apart, replace them with Bilstein B4. Not too expensive and will last a long time.

Double check that oil cooler. You sure it's not the cooler o-rings that have failed? That's easier to replace than the OFHG.

Not much choice on a torn CV boot. Replacement axles are inexpensive so is a boot kit. Your choice there.

 

Not too sure on the oil cooler o-rings, but I did see oil on the oil filter housing towards the firewall. Given that oil leaks down it is most likely the OFHG.

Forgot to mention that the front motor mount is totally compressed and have a new one on order. Looked at the bottom mount and I really can't see any tears so I'll leave it alone for now.

Fixed the right rear speaker problem, the balance was just turned all the way to the left.

Boot kits are messy and a PITA, I'd rather just replace the axle.

As for the suspension, I like the B4s because they are the OEM replacements. I wonder who makes the JCW suspension kit. That would be a nice replacement, possibly.

 

From someone who had the optional Sport Suspension which was the base suspension in the JCW, the shocks MINI uses are really not good. I replaced them at ~50k miles with Bilstein B8s and which I wish I had done that the day I bought the car. From everything I have read, the B4s are also a step up from what MINI uses, even though they are considered to be the OEM replacement. There is a really good thread on NAM comparing the B4s to the KONI FSDs. Both come across well and it comes down to cost vs the improved ride of the FSDs. And both are considered to be much better than anything MINI uses. As for the optional JCW sports suspension (the suspension that comes with the red springs), I doubt that the shocks in that optional package are any better than than those in the base JCW suspension and they cost a lot; the B8s would be my choice instead of those.

As for replacing the strut bearings, buy a set of IE fixed camber plates. These come with a much needed, but mild, increase in camber (same as the factory camber as the Gen II GP). They also come with a steel plate that will prevent mushrooming of the strut tower. No change in ride quality, no increase in tire wear and no increase in noise. These are one of the best improvements in handling you can make. Turn in is greatly improved without the potential of spinning the car in the middle of a corner that a larger rear sway bar can cause.

If you are tearing the front suspension apart anyway, those are the changes I'd make (been there, done that ). Keep the MINI S springs. No need to go lower and/or stiffer for a young driver.

Hope all comes together with the car. I fully understand about daughters having several who we raised to be strong willed and independent. It is tough to do in those teen years but worth it for their sake when they go out on their own. Yours is lucky to have you.