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So, she arrived last night and boy it was a mess...apparently it was locked when it got flooded. the key could not open the door no matter how much I forced it :(
I didnt want to pry on the door and bent it so i figured the cheapest option is to.........-->
Break the window...and i did...aside from the broken glass, it was a nice feeling breaking something...lol...no that will not break my wallet. these upcoming days will be interesting as i "fish" out the dead modules!
It was a double thanks giving weekend...After digging and trying to figure why the car wont start, I decided to hot jump the starter! it did not spin! so i replaced it and cranked her up and she started. lots of smoke since i lubricated the rings with oil.
when i checked the oil, it was chocolaty. after three dumps of oil, it remained clear.
It’s amazing how different they look dis-assembled.
I like that when all else fails the fuel gauge works.
lol...it is actually "smiling" at me : )
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Almost all of the parts needed are on order and some on the their way. Luckily the ABS and EPS are good. It was tough finding the foglight/TCS/Sport button switch.
I also noticed the water pump was the old version, so I might have to get that replaced.
Also, I need to check the ATF to make sure it is clean/water free.
So, after the start and oil flushes, I did a sanity check on the transmission and......strawberry milkshake came out lol. So, I decided to just get another transmission to eliminate any future issues.
Guessing you'll be replacing the engine harness, body harness, Footwell modules, fuse box and BC1, dash electronics, gauges, heater control unit, stereo, air bags, air bag harnesses? Salvaged title ?
All wiring harnesses were ok. the speakers still work and the YAW sensor. so far, i replaced the FRM, Airbag module, fuse box, shifter, window/heater switches, and soon will replace the blower motor (seems stuck).
Your not helping, your damaging the integrity of the brand and potentially contributing to a criminal act down the road.
...."Buying a salvage or rebuilt title vehicle is extremely risky. Unless you are a licensed body repair technician, you should never knowingly purchase a salvage vehicle for anything but parts because it cannot in most cases be licensed or insured. A rebuilt title vehicle can normally be registered to drive, but it will be difficult to get insurance. Another issue with rebuilt title vehicles is safety. While the vehicle does have to pass an inspection to make sure that it has been repaired enough to be safe to drive, the state inspectors can only see limited parts of the vehicle. The state inspector can't dismantle the vehicle to make sure the repairs were correctly done, so it is not difficult for an unscrupulous body shop to cover up a shoddy or non-existent repair so that the vehicle gets the reconstructed title but is still not safe. Also, even if vehicle damage is repaired to a point where it is safe to operate and given a rebuilt or reconstructed title, the vehicle can still have serious mechanical issues that do not surface until shortly after purchase that can far exceed the purchase price of the vehicle to repair.
In addition to the safety concerns, salvage and reconstructed vehicles are worth substantially less than non-branded title vehicles. If the title brand is not showing on the CarFax or AutoCheck or other vehicle history report at the time of purchase, the vehicle history will most likely be updated at some point with the title brand to alert potential buyers. Even if the vehicle history report is not showing the vehicle as reconstructed or salvage title, a seller who knows that the vehicle has such a title and sells the vehicle without disclosure is committing fraud.
Dealerships have ways to hide the fact that a vehicle was declared a total loss and was not issued a rebuilt title. Often this is done through buying and selling across state lines multiple times so that the title brand gets lost or "washed" by the time it is put on the lot. A dealership has an obligation to fully disclose a total loss designation or a salvage or rebuilt title. If you were sold a car and were not told that it was a total loss, or had a salvage or reconstructed title....."
All wiring harnesses were ok. the speakers still work and the YAW sensor. so far, i replaced the FRM, Airbag module, fuse box, shifter, window/heater switches, and soon will replace the blower motor (seems stuck).
was salvage title. now it is a rebuild title.
Having worked on cars ( MINI's specifically which had water damage from failed door gaskets / sunroof drains ) I can tell you without a doubt this car will not be running in 6-8 months. Every connection to those modules on harness side was not replaced. Water makes its way DOWN the hundres of wire ends where they have connections/pins....THEY WILL EVENTUALLY CORRODE AND ROT.
I live in New Orleans and just bought a MINI from Baton Rouge for my wife, this means I am no stranger to flooded cars and sunk boats. One of the members of our local car club British Motoring Club of New Orleans lost a Aston Martin and a F-Type to the flood in Baton Rouge last year. Insurance company totaled the cars which were not completely submerged, this was due to the computers and wiring being low in the cars. I assume they went to salvage which means someone picked up on really nice cars on the cheap. The Issues Eurothrasher speak of are well know and not to be ignored but would not stop me from cleaning up and restoring a car I picked up for the right price. I would provided full disclosure to any buyer.
I wanted to suggest a product that you may or may not be aware of that is used to clean electrical connections. I have used the product to restore vintage Ham radio gear, some of which had lived a hard life in the military or in the Ham Shacks of radio operators in a humid and smokey environment, seems all the old Ham operators chained smoked.
Works very well on edge connectors, data cables, vacuum tube pins, etc,will help to restore reliability to harness connections. It is expensive but a little goes a long way.
Does it look like salt water damage? Or was it just fresh water? I mean I know there was flooding from the hurricane. But if it was far enough inland it could have just been fresh water? I could deal with working on a car flooded with fresh water but I don't think I'd ever want to mess with salt water damage. Have you done a car with salt water damage? What program are you using to check all the modules?
I live in New Orleans and just bought a MINI from Baton Rouge for my wife, this means I am no stranger to flooded cars and sunk boats. One of the members of our local car club British Motoring Club of New Orleans lost a Aston Martin and a F-Type to the flood in Baton Rouge last year. Insurance company totaled the cars which were not completely submerged, this was due to the computers and wiring being low in the cars. I assume they went to salvage which means someone picked up on really nice cars on the cheap. The Issues Eurothrasher speak of are well know and not to be ignored but would not stop me from cleaning up and restoring a car I picked up for the right price. I would provided full disclosure to any buyer.
I wanted to suggest a product that you may or may not be aware of that is used to clean electrical connections. I have used the product to restore vintage Ham radio gear, some of which had lived a hard life in the military or in the Ham Shacks of radio operators in a humid and smokey environment, seems all the old Ham operators chained smoked.
Works very well on edge connectors, data cables, vacuum tube pins, etc,will help to restore reliability to harness connections. It is expensive but a little goes a long way.
Does it look like salt water damage? Or was it just fresh water? I mean I know there was flooding from the hurricane. But if it was far enough inland it could have just been fresh water? I could deal with working on a car flooded with fresh water but I don't think I'd ever want to mess with salt water damage. Have you done a car with salt water damage? What program are you using to check all the modules?
From what I can tell/smell, it is fresh water.
I use ISPA/D and ISTA/P with K+Dcan cable....it is too slow for me so might upgrade to ICOM ISTA/P.
