Hey, everyone. I'm replacing the timing chain on my R60, and as you might expect I have to drop the oil pan to clean out the plastic debris from the shredded chain guides. HOWEVER!

There is one oil pan bolt that sits between the oil pan and the transfer case, and there isn't quite enough room to get a socket in there. Has anyone had to do this? Can you advise of a way to get that bolt out so I don't have to pull damned transfer case just to drop the oil pan?

I've tried grinding down a sacrificial socket but it still won't fit. I think a nut driver would get in there if I could find one with thin enough walls. But I haven't had any luck finding one.

 

Hahaha, funny, I am just now in this EXACT same position! I watched a few vids of dropping the pan on other n18.....but NONE were all4 that have the dang transfer case/power take off right freakin there....

So I started searching again specific to all4 n18 and here I am! At least with my job, the bolts weren't really -that- tight in there to begin with, so I'm thinking about trying to get a needle nose plyer in there....or maybe a little 1/4in socket would fit?

Unless you found a way outside of also taking out the transfer case?

 

In case anyone else runs in to this, I was able to get a 1/4in socket on it, and then tied that to a drill attachment, and was able to get it. I did have to "pound" the assembly on to the bolt, when I only tried to man handle it in there, It wasn't making great contact and was slipping on the bolt.

 

Interesting. What brand sockets you using. Mine are Craftsman and won't fit in the gap.

 

I just found this. I'm going to give it a try. It looks like the head might have thinner wall and the flexibility might help to get around how the bolt is slightly offset to the transfer box. It's kinda pricey for what it is but will be well worth it, if it works.

 

Interested to hear if that works. Please post an update after trying. Thanks.

 

Sorry it took so long to get back. Literally the first day I've had a chance to work on it.

That flexible nut driver didn't even come close to working. While the head looked thinner, it's just an optical illusion because of how long it is.

Anyway, what I was able to do was get a nut driver bit up in there to break it free but there was only enough space to get a couple of threads backed off. After that I cut off and ground down a sacrificial 5/16 socket until the walls were only just thick enough to not split at the corners. Then I sort of shimmied it the rest of the way out. I had to remove all of the other bolts to get an extra millimeter of space in there to even make that last bit happen. It took me about 2 hrs of trial and error.

So, while I'd put money on it that mechanics who regularly work on these things have a special tool that they have bought or made, the manual kind of isn't joking about the proper procedure being to remove the transfer case. I just don't believe every shop out there is wasting those hours of extra work to remove it.

Anyway, I'm going to get an 8 mm socket cap bolt (and washer if I can't find a flanged version of it) to try to put in its place for the next person that has to eff with it.

Now, since it's been like 3 months since I started this stupid project, let's see if I can get it all back together.

 

I feel like everytime a DIY fix is done that improves the chance of success for the next owner, an angel gets its wings. Good luck putting it back together, I had no idea that bolt even existed until I read this thread.

 

Damn, I'm in this exact situation right now, myself. Did anyone figure out a good way to get this bolt? If I can find a thin enough socket, I may be ok, but I like the idea of replacing it with maybe an Allen head bolt, similar to the ones that hold the diverter valve down.
any tip or hint will be greatly appreciated! As I try to revive this thread

 

I ended up buying a deep 8mm 1/4" socket and used a belt sander to thin the outside walls for about 3/4 of the depth. It's very thin, but it fit up in there and backed it out. I think I will try to find a different bolt with a socket or Allen head to make putting it back easier, as well as for future service by me.

 

When I worked in a shop many years ago, guys would use tall axle stands, lower the lift a bit, and gain the room they needed by pushing the 'right' ancillary out of the way.

Would I do that? No, but it's a case of knowing when you can and can't do such things. And I just don't know. It was done quite often to fit custom exhausts...but again, NOT on mini's. This was back when there was a lot less plastic, and a lot more room under cars.

I agree that many an independent shop won't remove the transfer case if there is absolutely any alternative, nor will they sacrifice their snap-on tools for a customer car by grinding stuff down for a one off application. Would love to hear from a mini tech on what they really do here, maybe one will chime in.

 

This worked really well. In fact, a diverter valve cap head screw fit perfectly, and made putting it back together a cinch. Now it will come off easy next time too.