My wife’s S All4 has been having random reduced engine output errors that are starting to get more frequent. The first few times it happened there was a definite miss. It would chug and idle/run rough with no power. Other times it appears it only loses boost, no power but still idling fine. It would usually happen after a half hour or so of driving and if you shut it off and let it sit a few minutes or manually clear the codes it would start up and drive home with no further issues. When I got a Bluetooth dongle and checked the codes it had misfires on 2 and 3. It’s got a little over 70k on it so I just replaced all 4 coils and plugs and thought I’d be done with it. But I’m not. Here’s some screen shots of the error codes I had this morning. I’ll keep picking away at them on google, but thought I’d ask here to see if anyone has a similar issue.

As a side note, any thoughts on BimmerLink? I’m using a generic OBDII app now, but would like something a little more brand specific.

 

I use the Schwaben scan tool from ECS.
it comes preloaded with the BMW software to read all of the codes. Most general scanners will not even see all of them.

 

That’s why I’m asking about BimmerLink, it’s BMW (and Mini) specific. I don’t really want to buy yet another device when I’ve already got a BT dongle and a phone. I seem to find info on BimmerCode, but not BimmerLink.

 

Did you use OEM Coils and PLugs? These engines are very picky

 

I used Bosch 9747 iridium plugs and Delphi GN1057112B1 coils which FCP euro claims is OE

 

The coils may be ok but they really arent OEM. There are many posts on these forums about the coils. The plugs are wrong. either the OEM Beru's or NGK 1422's. thats it. I'm on my 5th Mini and have some experience in this. Also, have to ask are you using high test top tier fuel? Lastly your high pressure fuel pump could be going bad, it can cause misfires.

 

Who manufactures the BMW coil? We run premium from no place in particular.

 

I believe the BMW coils are made by Bosch. What I can be sure of is Ive been thru what your going thru and had the same issues as you on my 2012 R60 and my 2016 R60. Yes we own 2 currently. A Mini Mechanic I trust warned me about the non OEM coils and Non OEM or NGK plugs. You should look at https://toptiergas.com/licensed-brands/.

 

I’ll try some Beru plugs, usually Bosch is a safe choice. I guess not this time. There are a few places claiming the Delphi are either OE or OEM coils which is why I bought them, so I’m not sure what to say about that.

 

Update: it took awhile because the car has been driven very little for some unknown reason. Is there some sort of sickness out there? I installed the Beru plugs and it did not change anything. I also remembered that I kept the original coils “just in case” and found them to be Delphi. So they are, as FCP Euro claimed, OEM coils.

 

So, it has been discovered that this condition happens after driving downhill extendedly. My wife says it happens nearly daily on her way home. We’ve got a 10 mile downhill on our commute home and it happens in nearly the same spot every night about 20 minutes into a 30 minute drive. I thought it was the drive time or distance, but yesterday we were driving down Provo canyon and it threw a code. I cleared it and it popped again nearly immediately. When I got to the bottom of the canyon, I cleared it and we drove for another 30 minutes with no issue. When we drove home we went up Parley’s canyon, had no issue for 30-40 minutes until we crested the summit and started downhill. After about 5 miles downhill it threw the same series of codes and went into limp mode.

I had started to research more symptoms of the high pressure fuel pump, but I get no hesitation, hard starts or misses any time other than going extended miles downhill. So that doesn’t make sense that that would be my issue.

 

Any luck with this issue? Mine is doing the same thing with the same codes. I also changed the plugs and coils with Bosch and Delphi. I'm losing my mind trying to figure this out. Fuel rail pressure seems ok when it happens, so I don't think it's a fuel issue. May have to take it into Mini, but it happens so randomly so I'm hesitant.

 

I have also replaced the original 7 year old battery and cleaned the MAF sensor. I took the car to a local shop because I couldn’t get it in to the shop I wanted. They read the codes and wanted to replace the plugs... They did a compression test (came back OK) and wanted to do a fuel pressure test, but didn’t have what they needed to complete that. At that point they asked me to pick it up. We just dropped it off at an independent BMW/Mini specialist while we left for 2 weeks to meet our first grandchild. I’ll post what they find when it’s fixed.

 

Just thinking out loud: When you are going downhill, are you using any gas at all? Are you coasting all the way? ie - is the throttle closed all the time?
This will cause a very high vacuum condition. Is it possible something is stuck & unable to re-open when you try to accelerate again? Any blue smoke from the exhaust - indicating worn valve stem seals?
I'm not sure what, but maybe start with the throttle body?

 

Very possible. It sets the code when it’s coasting, it doesn’t try to wait for acceleration. It MAY only happen while the cruise is on as well. It sets a code pretty much all the time now going downhill, but didn’t while driving to the shop. The difference being my wife was following me and didn’t have the cruise set. That could be a coincidence, as it was only the one time, but that observation was made. We’re on vacation for 2 weeks now, so hopefully they’ll get to the bottom of it before we return.

 

Amazing, that would be much appreciated. Mine has begun malfunctioning more often now, so I may end up bringing it in anyway. I'll update when I figure it out as well. Previously I only had this issue when I was on the highway, but now it has begun on city streets when slowing down and pulling up to red light. Always seems to be at the exact same location on my commute to work. Probably a coincidence. No blue smoke that I've noticed. I am getting a 3861 code which is a fuel rail pressure sensor circuit I believe. Fuel rail pressure hovers around 1000 psi at idle when it's misfiring though and from what I can gather, that's pretty normal. Maybe I should just change the sensor.

Congrats on the grandchild!

 

So going downhill, coasting & slowing down are all in common = throttle closed = high vacuum.
For the sake of a 30-second test, could you reset the throttle position syncronization? Key on, engine not running, gas pedal to the floor for 30 seconds, key off & out.
& then go to work by a different route!

 

I'll definitely try that. Thanks for the suggestion. I'll give an update in a few days.

 

Unfortunately, same issues after doing this.

 

I can’t try it, I’m currently 1200 miles from the car. I’ve got a week and a half before I’m home and hopefully the shop has figured it out by the time we get there. bigminiguy may be having similar symptoms, but he’s getting different codes than I am. To me it’s very apparent that something electrical is going on, there are just no codes that have pointed me in the right direction.

 

Overdue update... The car is still in the shop, going on a month now. When we were out of town they found a broken hose clamp on the intake and replaced it, they said that seemed to be the issue. They were suspicious of the VANOS solenoid and asked if they could do a cleaning/bench test along with a due oil change, nearly due transaxle and rear diff service. I gave the go ahead and hoped I wouldn't have to wrench on it for a good long while. My wife picked up the car and called me from the road within 10 minutes of leaving the shop. It was now losing power going UP hill, which has never happened before. She didn't have time to take it back and needed to get to work. She limped it along parked in the underground parking at work hoping the codes would clear after it sat (which it previously did) and could get her home. The car would not start with 3 codes it's never had before:
2D5A VANOS, inlet: control error, camshaft jammed
2C58 Boost pressure control, shutdown: pressure build-up blocked
2DA2 exhaust camshaft, angular misalignment to crankshaft outside tolerance

I tried to clear the codes in hopes of driving the car out of the garage, but to no avail. I had to tow it out of the garage of one of the nicest hotels in Park City, UT. That was fun. So, I figured it would take a new VANOS solenoid and be good to go, but I haven't heard from them. I need to call, but I forget because they're not open when I got to work and are closed by the time I'm done.

I'll follow up when I know more.

 

Update on my end. Took it into Mini, they checked codes and said it was the post cat oxygen sensor that was causing the problem. I was skeptical, but what the hell, told them to go ahead ($600 for diagnostics, parts and labour). 20 minutes after I picked it up, limp mode while trying to merge onto a major highway. Pulled over, shut it down for a few minute, started her back up and drove for 2 hours with no problems. Took it back to mini where they checked compression, looked at the valves and then came to the conclusion that the aftermarket coils were the problem (Delphi 12137575010). Picked up the proper coils from Mini, installed and codes cleared. Thing ran better than ever for about 2 weeks, however, major misfires and went into limp mode again 2 days ago on my way to work. Accidentally stalled the car on a hill, started back up and it's been fine since.

The following codes are now present:

2EE0 Misfire, several cylinders: fuel injection deactivation
2EE7 Misfire, cylinder 2: fuel injection deactivation
2EEA Misfire, cylinder 3: fuel injection deactivation
2EFE Misfires, several cylinders
2EFF Misfire, cylinder 1
2F00 Misfire, cylinder 2
2F01 Misfire, cylinder 3
385C BSD, message, alternator: missing
3861 BSD, message, alternator: missing
38B4 BSD, message, intelligent battery sensor (IBS): missing

I am using a foxwell scan tool with mini software.

Not sure what to do with this thing now.

 

Update to my previous update. They determined that the car wouldn’t start due to the timing chain had skipped teeth. The plastic on the tensioners had broken as well. They pulled the pan, cleaned out all the plastic bits they could find, replaced the tensioners and reassembled. When the car was warming up for a test drive it lost oil pressure. They disassembled it again and found out the oil pressure solenoid was sticking and the wiring harness was incorrectly routed. The car should be done Tuesday with another $2600 plus tax due.

 

For what it's worth, you've got a lot (apparently) going wrong all at once!
I'd start by cleaning the battery terminals & all grounds. Try some electronic switch cleaner in whatever plugs you can easily access.
MINIs are *very* sensitive to electric issues.
& see if there's any difference.....

 

I was also thinking that it might be an electrical issue. Weird that it completely rights itself when the engine is shut off, even if it's just for a few seconds. It's like something resets or becomes unstuck. I have only had the car for a few months, but it only seems to be a problem on really hot days. Might just be my imagination though. At one point I had a code 2D54 Vanos, exhaust, cold start not controllable, but it's never returned after cleared. Don't know much about the Vanos system, would a dirty or bad vanos solenoid cause misfires?