Thought I'd share this with fellow CM owners. In earlier posts IE: Scan gauge Vs Ultra gauge there were issues/reports of battery drain problems with the UG. UG's website had not confirmed until late last month that it had vers.1.2 available.
I took the leap and purchased one and it works FLAWLESSLY! I've had UG on other vehicles and they've worked great, but for the CM it offers more gauges than I could possibly want - 7 pages worth with 6 gauges available per page.
Don't get me wrong, whether it's an UG or scan gauge, I'm an advocate of gauges both are good units. I opted for the UG because of it's size,options and price. (it's about half of what the scangauge goes for)
I've had it for about a month now and "ZERO" issues with battery drain. So if you opt for one make sure you request Vers 1.2.

 

Thanks for this; I see the UG is 65% off as well, so that seems like the right price to go ahead and try it out.

I have CravenSpeed Gauges (physical gauges), but a digital one will help with the rest of the information.

 

I wonder if this will show oil temp and pressure?

 

Is the UG plug and play, or is there some programming involved?

 

Didn't see those listed on the product's website.

 

Nice! Good to hear. I have the SG in my FJ but I think I'm going to go with the Ultra Gauge for the Countryman.

Question: Where did you mount yours?

 

Today after work I installed the UltraGauge, which so far I like. I have the ScanGauge II in my FJ but I think the UltraGauge fits the Mini better. Either way there's not really a lot of places to install it that are convenient.

I went with the "no mount" option because the windshield isnt really where I like mounting stuff. Not sure I like the current location, I like more of a heads up option but flat surfaces are hard to come by. I used some super sticky tape with some super sticky velcro and mounted it left of the tach. I can reach the buttons without pulling off the UG since 4 levels of solid tape keep it off the dash .25". It's also rather flexible having velcro, the UG can be moved right or left depending on preferred view and can be pulled off the dash.

Any ideas on mounting locations and methods?

I'm still trying to figure out what gauges to have and what they all mean! There's a lot of choices!

 

Does this read relative boost, so there is no subtracting absolute psi to get the true boost?

 

just ordered mine yesterday cant wait to see if it really does what it say it do.

 

since i never use a CD so i used 1 of the velcro that came with a EZ pass



driving like that for the whole day in NYC road with many pumps, and its holding up fine... unless my leg kick it... and i just ordered more 3M velcro from EZ pass FOR FREEEEEE

 

Okay i just pluged mine up and the boost gauge not working right its reading in the negitave while driving and 0000 out as u get on it anyone have this problem or is it just me?

 

It's reading correctly, at least the negative reading. Not sure why you're getting 0000 while driving.

It's supposed to do that...there's negative PSI. When you accelerate it will move positive PSI.

I can give a better explanations shortly but I'm busy right now at work.

 

thats the problem it doesnt move to positive it just stays in negative even while driving and i know i couldnt have a boost leak

 

Braminator, unfortunately that would be a no. The Cooper does not have an OBDII oil pressure or temp sensor input on the CAN loop so there are no readings. The only things visible are what the ECU can see, you need to add those on. Im plotting out my options now, I think its ridiculous how expensive the mounting systems are, but I guess its because its a small market. Economy of scale.

 

I think its crazy too how much this lil mods cost but i know its helpful down the road. It sucks the ecu doesn't show afr with this gauge either. That's one of the reason i bought it, but looking at the boost gauge i got boost problems think the throttle body not closing completely guess ill have to get the Detroit tuned one soon

 

I don't suppose this lets you identify codes for a CEL like the ScanGauge, does it?

Edit: The UltraGauge website says it does, but I want to be sure this is true for MINIs as well. (It seems some features that work on other cars don't work on our car and vice versa.)

 

Here's where my mounted

 

Yep, it does read codes just like the ScanGaugeII. It will read codes, clear CEL's, etc. I have both, I like the UltraGauge better for the Mini, it's more sleek and easier to mount than the SG.

 

Thanks, 1big. Just ordered one. I agree; the interface looks a little more MINI-like than the SGII.

 

Well gents, sorry to report that the UG doesn't read trouble codes, at least on my Countryman.

CEL is clearly illuminated and yet the UG reports "0" trouble codes and "0" pending trouble codes. Sent an e-mail to UG and they aren't sure why it's doing it and said that I am one of perhaps two people to report the issue, so e-mail them if you, too, have the problem.

I tried identifying the code through Mini's on-board service menu in the odometer, but the code is not in the familiar "P-----" format that I was hoping to see. Instead, it is in some code that I cannot understand (see attached pic). Wish I knew what it meant!

 

Curious as to what SG says is the reason? It should read them...can you clear the CEL?

 

UG isn't sure. They speculated that perhaps MINI has more than 20 computers reporting code information back and if so, not all of them will be represented at any given time. Thus, the proposed solution was to page the car for trouble codes through the UG ten or more times in quick succession on the hope the computer with the trouble code information would get through. Didn't work.

UG then suggested that I pull the code information through the MINI on-board system, which worked, except that the information is not in any code language I recognize. (See photo I posted above.) UG suspects that perhaps the code is in some proprietary language and that this is the reason the UG is not able to detect/display the trouble codes.

All I can say is that from a modding standpoint it looks like BMW/Mini did just about everything they could to foil us on the 2012 Countryman.

New-fangled ECU encryption? Check.

Bumper re-design to prevent aftermarket R60 intercooler from fitting? Check.

Crazy code presentation to prevent users from self-diagnosing fault codes from their mods? Check.

 

Hujan, just as an FYI, BavTech says this:

A559:
Clamp 30g_f cutoff
Error will not cause a warning light
Error is not currently present
Test conditions have been completed
EXPLANATION: Pulled fuse out behind glovebox during tune install.
FIX: Make sure fuse is inserted. Clear and rescan.

 

Thanks, Theta. Found that too on Google. Trouble is:

1) I haven't monkeyed around with any fuses (or tunes), and

2) I do have a CEL.

This happened right after I got my exhaust installed along with a DP. My assumption was that the DP was throwing the CEL (even though we took steps to address that).

Perhaps something he did during the install tripped a fuse? I'd like to take it to the dealer, but I am reluctant if it is the DP.

The weird thing is that I was able to clear the code with the UltraGauge just once, but then it came back and subsequent attempts to clear it with the UG have failed.

Perhaps I'll order the SGII and hold off on taking it to the dealer until I see if the SG can read it?

 

Before taking it to the dealer, go to AutoZone and borrow an Actron scanner real quick. Those $200 units will tell you exactly what's going on. Then look up or post the code you get from that.