Wireless = amazing for install. So much less headache, and I've not had a single problem with the transmitter.

You can even get wireless relays for driving lights, etc. if you add those later. The old days of wiring switches are nearly over.

 

Yes, because you at least have nearly any option available. Once you go proprietary, that's all she wrote.

 

I look forward to hearing how it sounds. I'm such an advocate of keeping a stock "back-to-stock-able" that cutting on my factory pipes is such a no-no for me, but I feel like this car will be with me for a while (I was averaging a new car every two years, 350z>350z>GTI>CM) so I should be ok with this mod.

Badlandz has a wireless kit, like QTP, so that's also good.

You know what would be sweet? A much faster valve, or a solenoid that opened the cutout quickly anytime you go over 50% throttle.

 

Where did you get your power source from? Can we do an add-a-fuse tap in the driver side panel, or do we need to tap wiring somewhere?

Thanks,

 

Not to be "that guy", but my Stingray has exactly this. At 3000rpm my valves open up and it becomes straight headers.

 

I did an add-a-fuse in the front driver-side engine fuse box. Selected an always-on source. The wireless module never drained any measurable power, and I've had no drain problems.

 

I guess it will be clearer once I order the electonic cutout, and wireless kit from BadlandzHPE. I'm having trouble picturing how it all will be wired. I'll bug you once I actually get the parts.

I found a good shop right near my house that will do the work. So once the parts come in, I'll line something up to get the install done. Probably take an hour and a half at the shop.

 

On this forum I don't think you can be any more "that guy" with the list of mods you've done to that R60 JCW. The Stingray just twists the knife.

Does it do that at from the factory, or is that a mod?

 

No problem, happy to help. I'll try to draw a diagram for you if you still need it once the parts come in.

 

NPP option/upgrade from the factory. Adjusts the flaps by the mode selector.

Eco and Touring keep two sets of valves closed for DoD, Sport mode opens the straight pipes at 3000, Race mode keeps them open full-time. I prefer race mode, myself.

 

Found this interesting... Paceman with the Ak downpipe and exhaust with a cutout.

This will give you an idea of your popping in the normal ECU sport mode. This is going to be louder due to the downpipe (obviously):

 

I could live with that! I wish I knew how muted it would be with the stock downpipe.

I had a catless downpipe on my GTI but that's a different beast, the downpipe on that car is probably 4-5 feet long and there are two o2 sensors. With stock exhaust on that car it sounded great, no need for anything else unless you wanted to be silly loud.

While I'd love to do a downpipe on this car, I'm not sure I'm "ready" yet with warranty being in play for 25k miles more just in case my turbo ***** the bed. That said, I know how restrictive it is, with likely a big cat right on the exit of the hot side of the turbo. I also know how much that's going to mute the sound.

Summit shipped, parts will be here friday, and the shop I'm going to is a known good place for exhaust work. Spoke to the owner and he knew what I was after and gave me a quote of about an hour and a half labor.

 

At the exhaust shop this morning. Figured I'd post some before pics. Plenty of room at the back of my non-All4 CM.

 

And the after shots. Initial impressions are almost stock sound with cutout closed and nice tone with lots of pop and burble with it open.

 

Theta, did you notice a definite seat of pants power increase with the cutout open. I don't have the electronic valve yet, but unbuttoned the cap plate today for my commute, and notice the car seems much quicker. Could be me, so I wanted to check.

 

Hey Theta, I ordered my cutout and wireless bit. Do you think I should wire to my existing add-a-fuse in the passenger side footwell, as in I will need to go through the firewall somehow, the engine fuse box, or figure out a way to wire to the rear 12v cigarette lighter?

I want to do this the right way, and sine I have the wireless module it should make things a little cleaner and easier.

What are your thoughts on routing the wire and where exactly to get power?

 

I have no idea why it didn't give me any alerts before, but I just got this one. Sorry, wasn't meaning to ignore you.

Turned out looking great!

If you want to run it like I did, just run the wire along the brake lines from the rear (shielded under the plastic gas tank shield) and through the holding clips for the brake lines. At some points, you may want to use small zip ties - looks nice and clean that way.

Follow the lines up and run to the front driver-side engine fuse box. Put the wireless box right next to it (behind), and use the nearby post to get your ground. For power, I used a constant hot so I could adjust it with the car completely off. You can use an inline fuse (I think it comes with one) and just power it directly off of the positive ring terminal.

This is by far the easiest way, and should take less than 30 minutes start to finish.

 

Theta. I hate to ask but do you happen to have any pics of your engine bay where you have the module mounted?

 

Specifically where you sourced your power and ground. I'm probably blind but I'm not seeing it.

 

I will get you some when I get out of the hospital.

 

Um Theta, why are you in the hospital?

 

I think I figured out the fuse box anyways. Now I am jus trying to figure out how to route the wire up there.

 

Sadly, a lot of people know about my ongoing fight with cancer. Currently, I'm holding my guts in with a pillow at the moment - quite uncomfortable actually, and typing is very difficult being this drowsy.

Let me see if I can find a pic of the bay and circle it. At least I have Photoshop on here.

 

Look here:

Red box is the obvious area.

Green boxes are possible grounds. You can use a post under your STB or normal strut bolt, or you can use the small painted nub on in the other green area. Not that you will need to remove the paint from that nub to make a good ground.

Other option marked in yellow would be to take a tapping metal screw and use one of the pre-formed indents/holes to place a grounding screw there for an easy body ground.

Hope that helps!

 

Theta, I did not know. I wish you best of luck with your fight! Take it easy and do not overdo it just to type for forum replies!

Read at your leisure once you are feeling like it:
I went ahead and mounted the cutout valve, unpowered in the closed position, basically to act temporarily as a plug in lieu of the static metal cap. Once I get it wired I can just open/close it.

I am really having trouble figuring out the right way/path to run the wire from the valve at the back of the car, to the front. I also seem to be unable to find a 12v source, though it seems I can find a ground in either of the options you mentioned. The back of the fuse box opening has a red terminal that is labeled with a battery symbol on the cover. I would think this would be a constant 12v. I don't have the time tonight to mess with it further, so I am going to just leave the valve and wire it when I get more time.