When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
update: I replaced boost solenoid and diverter valve and cleaned maf sensor and boost sensor? on charge pipe as well. didn't work out.. keep having same code 2885..
I checked and recorded the boost psi while test driving
I believe they are. Look real colors at the charge pipe make sure there no cracks in the plastic. With age they can crack. Also did you check and make sure the turbo spins freely?
I believe they are. Look real colors at the charge pipe make sure there no cracks in the plastic. With age they can crack. Also did you check and make sure the turbo spins freely?
I literally double checked the charge pipe (intake boot) and it is looking good but I ordered a new one just in case. I keep forgetting to check the turbo spins when engine runs after removing intake boot... last time I spinned it by finger and worked fine though. I will check that one later too.
Today, I replaced the ignition coils since they look old and rusty. I feel like the car runs smoother than before for sure and idling is good as well. I also replaced the fog lamp bulb on passenger's side and noticed that there is one connector was broken and I have no idea where it connects to. I don't see anywhere it is supposed to be connected to. I also replaced the front brake pads sensor since there was no sensor on it... I don't know how the previous owner drove this car before but I literally don't like to see light on dash.
I test drove it again and car actually runs great and I can feel boost and I ran hard today like each gear around 4-5000 rpms but ran totally fine without half check engine light however, especially when I go uphill, it pops up.. I still feel power and no limp mode though.. I also ordered Bosch boost pressure sensor (part# 0261230230) just in case. oh I forgot to mention that I went underneath the car and checked if the intercooler hose is loose or something but they both driver's side and passenger's side were well tightened. Hopefully the intake boot and boost pressure sensor can fix this problem tomorrow but I have no idea what else since I've done pretty much everything except turbo and exhaust manifold replacement... (hopefully not).
Before I went to test drive, I checked the code there was another code 2A56 popped up. Is it because I took it off before when I removed the turbo heatshield?? I erased it and didn't pop up after test drive.
Ok so you ordered a MAP sensor. Yes a bad map could cause this problem. Even if it fixes the problem you need to get your valves walnut blasted. They are looking bad. I hear people talk bad about the N14 motor, its only problem is having to keep the valves clean. It has to do with the way it vents the crank case and the motor being direct injection. The JCW N14 block is different than a regular N14. It has some extra bolstering in it. I cant remember all the differences. Usually dirty valves start with the car running bad when cold. As they get worse other problems crop up till one sticks open and the piston hits the valve. As they get dirty they don't allow air to flow well into the cylinder.
For the plug that is broken you can get a new one and splice it in.
If you have already spun the turbo and it is spinning freely you don't need to check agin.
I may have missed them, but what were the results from testing/checking items 1-4?
I did smoke test few times through intake boot few days ago and today as well but I don't see any leak. I swapped the intake boot and boost pressure sensor today and still it pops up but the most suspicious part was that driving below coolant temperature 105-108 is totally running fine and no half check engine light. I drove like 10 mins or so and drove hard and car ran great and once the car gets hot and I kept eyes on coolant temperature and few mins after it gets to 105-108 while driving, the half check engine light and same code 2885 popped up. I think I already posted before but the coolant temperature keeps staying around 105-108 even if sits in idling and while driving. I've been driving few R56s or JCW before but the coolant temperature were like 93-108 up and down. Once I shut off the engine the cooling fan keeps running for few mins too. I also hear something weird noise going on under the hood after shut off. Is this normal? I see the previous owner replaced the thermostat this year. Could the coolant temperature sensor on thermostat be defective?
Is the coolant level in the reservoir at the full max level when engine is cold? One possibility is that some air is trapped in the cooling system, so you may want to try bleeding it.
For code 2885, you also should check items 2-4.
My Mini also makes some unusual noises after shutting off the engine. I just assumed it was doing some basic maintenance checks.
Is the coolant level in the reservoir at the full max level when engine is cold? One possibility is that some air is trapped in the cooling system, so you may want to try bleeding it.
For code 2885, you also should check items 2-4.
My Mini also makes some unusual noises after shutting off the engine. I just assumed it was doing some basic maintenance checks.
I did replace the vacuum converter and zip tied both hoses attach to it. I'm getting really exhausted about this problem .. I might have to bring a mechanic to check those vacuum pump and wastegate stuffs...The coolant level is little more than minimum in cold.
I wonder if item 2 can be evaluated with a scan tool that reads pressure from the intake manifold charge air pressure sensor or the charge air duct sensor?
Item 3 is electrical tests on the converter connector wire(s) - continuity to DME and short to ground.
For item 4, the only vacuum pump that I know of is for the brake booster. Does the vacuum generated by this pump also have a turbo charger function?
(edit: The brake booster vacuum pump apparently supplies vacuum to the pressure converter valve)
For item 6, AutoZone & O'Reilly's offer free rental vacuum pumps.
Try bringing coolant level to max level when cold and also do a system bleed.
Last edited by Maybe, maybe not; Oct 28, 2025 at 07:32 PM.
The code reader I posted a lick to can do live data logging, run systems to check operations, register batteries and read BMW/Mini specific codes that generic readers can not. If you are going to work on a mini it is a big help. It can be used on other brands to read codes. I have had Minis for the past 20 years, it has paid for its self many times over. Also a Bentley Manual is handy to have.
The fans should run till the coolant temp comes down. The other noise you hear is the cooling pump for the turbo. Make sure you dont have air in the cooling system as @Maybe, maybe not said.
Here is a before and after picture of valves that have been blasted. I dont think this the problem but maybe a contributing factor and it will have to be done soon or latter.
I cant remember, did you pull the DV and look at it? You can put 12v on it and see if it works. Is the DV new? They can come apart and some of it fall into the turbo and ruin the turbo. Is that DV new? When you say it runs good does it run good and pull strong with WOT all the way to redline?
Foe reference my JCW R58 has 19psi at redline.
I cant remember, did you pull the DV and look at it? You can put 12v on it and see if it works. Is the DV new? They can come apart and some of it fall into the turbo and ruin the turbo. Is that DV new? When you say it runs good does it run good and pull strong with WOT all the way to redline?
Foe reference my JCW R58 has 19psi at redline.
Yes DV was clean and no hole on diaphragm. anyway I replaced new one. I posted a video before.
car pulls strong I believe. I didn't rev all the way to redline though.
I checked with bluetooth obd while idling and noticed that I don't any moves on o2 sensor 1 as you can see below. Is it normal or something wrong with it?
You should be getting a reading from O2 1. Un plug it and plug it back in see it that fixes it. At least it is an easy one to get tom. Also do a wide open throttle pull to red line and lets see what boost you are getting.
You should be getting a reading from O2 1. Un plug it and plug it back in see it that fixes it. At least it is an easy one to get tom. Also do a wide open throttle pull to red line and lets see what boost you are getting.
I did unplug bank 1 upstream one and plug it back but still no sign of movement on obd gauge. Yeah I guess you are right. I literally thought that it happens only when the car is hot but I was wrong. I drove few mins and drove hard and once it reached 4k rpm and the boost was 2.5 psi max and half check engine light came on. on video take a look at 2:31-2:38
Something isn’t right if you’re not getting a signal from the upstream O2 sensor. I would get a new one.
I used different obd (autel ap200) to check o2 sensor and misfire detection in live at idling. Please let me know if o2 sensor operates correctly. I see there is misfire on cylinder 1 at idling and I felt the car vibrates as well. not sure if it causes by o2 sensor.
let me know!
Yes DV was clean and no hole on diaphragm. anyway I replaced new one.
A new or good pressure converter valve won't work if the connector has a poor contact, if a converter wire is broken or shorted, or if the DME is not sending a signal to open or close the converter valve. Use a digital multimeter and/or your scan tool to test these possibilities.
Questions: (1) Does the converter valve connector have one or two wires? What color is the converter wire(s) [main color and stripe color, if applicable]?
Last edited by Maybe, maybe not; Oct 31, 2025 at 07:34 AM.
If you are still getting 2885 code, you need to go back through this list and triple check EVERYTHING. Don't dismiss one component because it "might" be ok. Might be worth it at this point to invest in some kind of vacuum tool and/or vacuum-pressure gauge, too.
I know this can be frustrating, especially on a car you just bought. Be glad you're learning new diagnostic skills, and not having to pay a mechanic for all this work.
Your O2 is working. It was your code reader. It should be at Lambda 1 at idle and any steady speed. It appears to working fine. Also if it wasn't the ECU would have thrown a code. I would not worry about that misfire, it is probably random. If you are going to do your own work you have to invest in proper tools.
At this point I think you may need to take the car to a good independent shop, one that knows MINI's and has what it takes to work on them. Let them diagnose the problem, if you are able you could fix it to save money. I suspect you do have a bad turbo. 2,5psi is nothing. I would not buy any more parts till I knew for sure a part is bad. You don't need to wast money. The hard truth is the previous owner knew the car had a major problem.
I would double check everything like the other guys have said. I have missed things before. My Exige was down a month because I missed that a pin had been dislodged on the ECU harness when I was adding fuel pressure to the ECU. Stupid oversight, it happens.
@MCS02@njaremka@Maybe, maybe not I brought someone who can diagnose the problem today morning and he used the scanner and did smoke test through tmap sensor so he can check if there is leak and we couldn't find any leak either on intake pipe or anywhere. He let me rev up so he could check if the wastegate is moving and he said it's not moving at all and he said the wastegate is stuck opened and air keeps coming in through that so it makes misfire at idling. He and I felt misfire pretty bad while idling and he checked the misfire detector through his scanner and cyl 1 & 4 were misfiring. I've been chatted with @MiniManAdam for a week and he was pretty sure that it's bad wastegate and I was suggested new turbo from ebay which he's been using it for few years and no issues at all. He actually suggested me 2 different turbos below. He said both of them were really good so far and I'm thinking of getting #1 K04. I'm also thinking of replacing turbo lines while replacing turbo and oil filter housing gasket as well. Do you guys recommend detroit tuned braided oil lines? or let me know if anyone has better one.
Wastegate movement appears to be controlled by vacuum (see item 6 in list). Is the wastegate mechanically seized or does it not get proper vacuum?
Tomorrow before I order new turbo, I am going to double check wastegate movement by using vacuum pump tester and inspection camera through o2 sensor hole.
.. I might have to bring a mechanic to check those vacuum pump and wastegate stuffs...The coolant level is little more than minimum in cold.
