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I ment how did the Intake valves look, I am sure they are fine. Have you made sure the turbo spins ok? Also did the previous owner say when this started?
I ment how did the Intake valves look, I am sure they are fine. Have you made sure the turbo spins ok? Also did the previous owner say when this started?
@MCS02 shoot.. I forgot to check how they look . can you tell me how to check the turbo spin? I'm not good at mechanic stuffs so. I haven't asked the previous owner when it started but I might have to ask him though.
I would defiantly ask the previous owner when this started happening. I would also ask how often he changed the oil. Turbos are hard on oil. If the oil was not changed very often the bearings in the turbo may be going bad. The oil pipe going to the turbo can get clogged with burnt oil causing the bearings to not get the needed lubrication. Early on with the Gen 2 turbo cars Mini had a long oil change interval. They lowered the interval after buying engines under warranty. Before someone jumps on me and says new turbos have cooling, I know that.
Take the plastic pipe off at the turbo and try spinning the turbo, it should spin freely.
@MCS02 I just took a video of cold start and does it sound like turbo fail or downpipe? I thought the heat shield makes that noise but it did not or is it just from the downpipe? that noise goes away after few mins.
I would defiantly ask the previous owner when this started happening. I would also ask how often he changed the oil. Turbos are hard on oil. If the oil was not changed very often the bearings in the turbo may be going bad. The oil pipe going to the turbo can get clogged with burnt oil causing the bearings to not get the needed lubrication. Early on with the Gen 2 turbo cars Mini had a long oil change interval. They lowered the interval after buying engines under warranty. Before someone jumps on me and says new turbos have cooling, I know that.
Take the plastic pipe off at the turbo and try spinning the turbo, it should spin freely.
just chatted with the previous owner and he said the turbo broke when he was on a run on Azusa Mountain road. before it broke he didn't do anything to the car and downpipe he put it on before a month it broke. He brought it back to mini dealership and they said it's turbo.
I am not sure of the sound you are hearing. I may have heard a little timing chain. I have hearing damage so I am not good picking out noise unless I am where I can touch the car. Have you put the stock down pipe back on?
It sounds similar to timing chain but the sound is around the turbo area and that noise goes away few mins later. No I haven't put the stock cat yet.
finally solved the puzzle now. I called nearest mini dealership where the previous owner lives at and received the service invoice from them and guess what lol. Stealership tried to rip off all money he had
update: I found that the 3 bolts on the downpipe to the turbo were pretty loose!!! I was surprised that the bolts were not tighten as it should.. I guess the person who installed the downpipe messed it up!!
I wish I could start the car and check if it worked or not but I worked at my parent's garage and the car is pretty loud so I didn't want to get complaint from the neighbors at night so I couldn't test it yet!!! I'm pretty excited-- this could be it!
update: I fixed the exhaust leak when cold start. again, I erased the code and went for test drive and felt so much power and the boost but....driving 5 mins or so when rpm around 3500 the half check engine light and same code popped up..
I have one question for you. the coolant temperature stays around 105-107 at idling. I used to have 2013 mini cooper JCW and I know that jcw is little bit more hotter than S model but when I had 13 JCW, the coolant temp was around 105-108 at idling and went down to 95ish but my current one just stays at 107 and 106 up and down. Is there something wrong with the coolant temperature sensor? I'm asking because the fan runs everytime even after shut off the engine..
I know you said you pulled the diverter valve and checked it… Did you pull it apart and fully check the diaphragm? Sometimes just pulling the valve and performing a visual doesn’t tell the complete story.
I know you said you pulled the diverter valve and checked it… Did you pull it apart and fully check the diaphragm? Sometimes just pulling the valve and performing a visual doesn’t tell the complete story.
Yeah I did before but I visually checked it and it looked good so. Today I pulled out diverter valve (again) and intake manifold (again) to double check. Plus, last time I forgot to check valve condition and took a video of it, let me know what you think.
I also pulled out ignition coils & spark plugs to see if I need to replace them. let me know what you guys think as well. I think the spark plugs are not bad but coils are pretty rusty on 2nd & 3nd as you can see.
Diverter valve looks fine to me..
I think it’s time for a good walnut blasting. If you have a valve stick it will bend and then its time to pull the head Dirty valves can cause other problems. I had it done on my R58 recently because it had been 50k sense the last blast. Cheep insurance. The coil packs may be working but look bad. Replace them.
I think it’s time for a good walnut blasting. If you have a valve stick it will bend and then its time to pull the head Dirty valves can cause other problems. I had it done on my R58 recently because it had been 50k sense the last blast. Cheep insurance. The coil packs may be working but look bad. Replace them.