R56 Does Chili red oxidize?
Does Chili red oxidize?
Hello there
So I"m still trying to decide on a color please forgive me, I do like chili red and astro black. But Living in florida I've noticed alot of red cars do oxidize. Does that happen with the Chili red? I mean I don't want to be driving a pink car in a few years!
thanks for the input.
So I"m still trying to decide on a color please forgive me, I do like chili red and astro black. But Living in florida I've noticed alot of red cars do oxidize. Does that happen with the Chili red? I mean I don't want to be driving a pink car in a few years!
thanks for the input.
I live in Florida too. My last three autos were Red and I never had any problems with oxidation. All my cars were kept outdoors too. My R56 on order now is CR/W. As with all finishes and colors they need a thorough waxing once or twice a year.!!
Back in the early 80s, I had a 300ZX that began to oxidize when it was barely a year old. But I made the mistake of waxing that car too soon and paints back then didn't harden as fast as they do today.
New paint technology and clearcoat... you shouldn't have a problem. Not sure why you're seeing so many pink cars down there in Florida. Are they any particular Make of vehicle ? Lots of pink Fords ? Hondas ? Chevys ?
New paint technology and clearcoat... you shouldn't have a problem. Not sure why you're seeing so many pink cars down there in Florida. Are they any particular Make of vehicle ? Lots of pink Fords ? Hondas ? Chevys ?
Yep, may have been on purpose. Where I lived a few years ago, someone a couple miles from my house had a pink Chevy Lumina. To make it worse, you could see the brush strokes. Yes, they hand painted that whole ugly car using a 3" paint brush. I kid you not.
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I agree that some new cars still have a major problem. I see red Toyta Matrix's that look awful around here all the time. Lots of red MINIs too though from various years and I have never noticed a problem.
Boston is the absolute worst place in the country for making rusty cars. The seat water plus the salt is really hard on them. I made the mistake of buying a used car that had been in MA for part of its life.
The best defense is to wash the car regularly, including the underside as much as possible. Or move to the West where cars don't rust.
The best defense is to wash the car regularly, including the underside as much as possible. Or move to the West where cars don't rust.
Boston is the absolute worst place in the country for making rusty cars. The seat water plus the salt is really hard on them. I made the mistake of buying a used car that had been in MA for part of its life.
The best defense is to wash the car regularly, including the underside as much as possible. Or move to the West where cars don't rust.
The best defense is to wash the car regularly, including the underside as much as possible. Or move to the West where cars don't rust.

Reminds me of a sign that is in our local diner mens room,(We aim TO please!!--. You aim TOO please!!).
I have a Chili Red 2005 MCS that I have driven for over 2.5 years now. Paint still looks like it did when it rolled into the dealership. I do keep it garaged at night but it sits in the sun all day in the parking lot at work.
Jerry
Orlando
Jerry
Orlando
Back in the early 80s, I had a 300ZX that began to oxidize when it was barely a year old. But I made the mistake of waxing that car too soon and paints back then didn't harden as fast as they do today.
New paint technology and clearcoat... you shouldn't have a problem. Not sure why you're seeing so many pink cars down there in Florida. Are they any particular Make of vehicle ? Lots of pink Fords ? Hondas ? Chevys ?
New paint technology and clearcoat... you shouldn't have a problem. Not sure why you're seeing so many pink cars down there in Florida. Are they any particular Make of vehicle ? Lots of pink Fords ? Hondas ? Chevys ?
Arizona is the solar test state!
The plastic is degrading faster than the paint on my MINI.
So far I see no oxidizing, and I don't have a garage. Don't wax too often. Must be better paint the the watercolor GM used.
So far I see no oxidizing, and I don't have a garage. Don't wax too often. Must be better paint the the watercolor GM used.
Oxidation was a major contributor to red fading prior to clear coat finishes - but with the clearcoat, the actual color coat isn't in contact with the air... so oxidation of the color coat isn't the real culprit anymore. This is one of the reasons OctaneGuy loves old single-stage paint jobs - because the car can look like total crap with an oxidized and UV faded colorcoat - but a good polish can reveal the gem underneath... This is also a way to become the neighborhood detailing stud if you can find such a needy paint job in your area and you have a small percentage of OG's skills... I buffed out some ugly stuff in the 80's and my peers thought I was a rockstar...
You clearcoat certainly can oxidize, which doesn't cause the colorcoat to fade, but still isn't a good thing. Also, it's possible to have a paint that is sensitive to UV and can still fade without oxidizing - though most quality paints these days are very UV-hardy.
Still - as many have said - regular use of a GOOD synthetic wax/sealant (shameless plug: like Prima Epic) will help prevent both oxidation and UV damage.
You clearcoat certainly can oxidize, which doesn't cause the colorcoat to fade, but still isn't a good thing. Also, it's possible to have a paint that is sensitive to UV and can still fade without oxidizing - though most quality paints these days are very UV-hardy.
Still - as many have said - regular use of a GOOD synthetic wax/sealant (shameless plug: like Prima Epic) will help prevent both oxidation and UV damage.
LOL!IMO with the non-clearcoats I'd make sure I paid special attention to them to be on the safe side
Vendor & Moderator :: MINI Camera and Video & c3 club forum
iTrader: (6)
While oxidation is less of a factor with clearcoat paints, there are other factors that contribute to the dullness of the finish. Those include above surface bonded contaminants (industrial fallout and things that need to be clayed to remove) and below surface defects--swirls, etchings, stains, etc..
Once you've successfully removed the contaminants both above and in the clearcoat, your chances of having a brilliantly shiny MINI along with the original intended color (not pink or faded) will stand out.
Check out this faded Chili Red MINI

Compare that to this after polishing

Once you've successfully removed the contaminants both above and in the clearcoat, your chances of having a brilliantly shiny MINI along with the original intended color (not pink or faded) will stand out.
Check out this faded Chili Red MINI

Compare that to this after polishing

Oxidation was a major contributor to red fading prior to clear coat finishes - but with the clearcoat, the actual color coat isn't in contact with the air... so oxidation of the color coat isn't the real culprit anymore. This is one of the reasons OctaneGuy loves old single-stage paint jobs - because the car can look like total crap with an oxidized and UV faded colorcoat - but a good polish can reveal the gem underneath... This is also a way to become the neighborhood detailing stud if you can find such a needy paint job in your area and you have a small percentage of OG's skills... I buffed out some ugly stuff in the 80's and my peers thought I was a rockstar...
You clearcoat certainly can oxidize, which doesn't cause the colorcoat to fade, but still isn't a good thing. Also, it's possible to have a paint that is sensitive to UV and can still fade without oxidizing - though most quality paints these days are very UV-hardy.
Still - as many have said - regular use of a GOOD synthetic wax/sealant (shameless plug: like Prima Epic) will help prevent both oxidation and UV damage.
You clearcoat certainly can oxidize, which doesn't cause the colorcoat to fade, but still isn't a good thing. Also, it's possible to have a paint that is sensitive to UV and can still fade without oxidizing - though most quality paints these days are very UV-hardy.
Still - as many have said - regular use of a GOOD synthetic wax/sealant (shameless plug: like Prima Epic) will help prevent both oxidation and UV damage.
Vendor & Moderator :: MINI Camera and Video & c3 club forum
iTrader: (6)
Pretty simple.
Meguiar's M80 Speed Glaze
A Porter Cable polisher
That's about it. Well you might want my DVD as well, so you know how to use them.
How to use the PC for ShowCar Results
Don't forget some detailing clay and a good wax like Prima Epic
But my best advice is come hang out on my own forum at ShowCarDetailing.com as well as here on NAM in the Detailing101 forum.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...splay.php?f=12
Richard
Meguiar's M80 Speed Glaze
A Porter Cable polisher
That's about it. Well you might want my DVD as well, so you know how to use them.
How to use the PC for ShowCar Results
Don't forget some detailing clay and a good wax like Prima Epic
But my best advice is come hang out on my own forum at ShowCarDetailing.com as well as here on NAM in the Detailing101 forum.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...splay.php?f=12
Richard
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