Which box do you have? Mine is the OEM one with the union jack on one side and the black, non-skid on the other. It fills the entire space, even with the rear ledge.

Jim

 

Also OEM, but from 2007. It is somewhat flexible, covered with black nylon cloth, Velcro adjustable dividers, and no markings. Has handles at each end.

 

I'm not sure I've seen that one. Mine is solid plastic. I liked the cargo nets and held off buying the box for awhile, but now I am glad that I did. I have tinkered with attaching the floor net to the top of the box, but have not come up with a good way as of yet.

Jim

 

Don't know if its already been mentioned, but the fog lights are absolutely useless with the Bi-Xenon headlights. They are cancelled with the brights, and the regular beams are so bright, I can hardly tell when I turn the fogs on or off. I'll check to see if there is a significant difference in heavy fog, but I doubt it.

 

Fog lights are off with high beams for a good reason - turning on high beams in fog is VERY dangerous and greatly hinders forward vision. It's a safety feature, and I think it might even be the law in some places.

That said, if your headlights are adjusted correctly, the fog lights should throw light down in front of the car at a lower place than the standard headlights will hit. If they don't, something isn't aligned properly.

 

Yup, they are fog lights, not to be confused with rally driving lights. Just use them in fog. They wont help you with anything else.

 

Mood lighting - also behind the air bag "oval" located behind the headrests of both the driver's and passenger's seats... And of course we can change the color - second button from the right on the controls above the mirror!

 

We all know that the windshield wipers slow down at a stop, but what surprised me was that when on intermittent and you stop, they go to a longer pause cycle. Now, if I could just select that manually...

 

I posted this in another thread (this one does not come up when I use the word "things"). If your fob's battery is low and you have comfort access on your tach screen you see a key with a battery icon come up when you get in the car.

 

You might be able to get it to pause longer if you have someone push you from behind. Be sure you're in neutral, though.

Seriously, that's an old BMW thing. I don't know when it started, but my '94 had it, as does my '01. I'm surprised your car's wipers don't go that slowly--mine do. I have automatic wipers, though, so maybe that's the reason. (I highly recommend them, BTW--best low-cost option out there!)

 

Another cool thing I found in the WDS and confirmed it in my car: If your key fob slot breaks and won't accept the push-in motion to activate the ignition you can put the fob in the first slot and press and hold the START button for about 10 seconds and the car will activate!

Also, the NAV screen is heated so it will respond faster in cold weather.

I bet this is in here somewhere, if you take the physical key and put in in the door lock and hold it in the lock position it will roll up the windows and close sunroof.

 

Or get in the habit of the post shutdown checklist--what do I have to close before I open the door? Works for sunroof and windows...

 

Didn't know that there's no engine temp indicator - or at least if there is, I can't find it on my '09 MCS.

 

It's not there, but should be. There are aftermarket fixes for this obvious deficiency, and at one point I heard it was going to be a factory option.

I lost a BMW engine several years ago because of an inadequate temperature indication (yes, there was a gauge). It was extremely expensive, though, and I'd hate for it to happen to my MINI. Last year I did get an idiot light warning that my water pump was malfunctioning (in far west Colorado near the Utah border), but that's not enough for such a hot turbo, in my opinion.

 

I ended up contacting Custom Mini Shop (see my signature for contact info) and found out that Steve at CMS had worked with Marshall Gauges to not only produce a gauge with amber backlighting but one that was designed for the Mini. With chrome and black bezel covers available they have several options available. I need to take a new picture as I have added volts above my water temp gauge and it looks great . Below the picture is a link to the thread and if you have any questions ask.







https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...gauges-25.html


SRTech is CMS and several postings have the prices #602 was the most recent one I saw.

 

Can you explain what you mean by your last sentence? Also, did you have to have your computer reflashed? How much was the total installation, turn-key?

 

Sorry I left the link off the previous post I have now added the link.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...gauges-25.html

As for the price the gas getting to Fresno CA is going to be a little much for you however the thread has lots of information on where to hook up the gauges etc. As for the computer the idiot lights that are hooked up to the computer are still enabled I have either put in an adapter as is the case for the water temp, boost vac gauges and the oil pressure that I will put in latter will also require an adapter so no computer re-flash was required. Crevier Mini did its first service and had no issues with the gauges being there. The gauges can be purchased as a whole set or like I have done just add as you go along. Costs that could have been reduced such as purchasing a dual gauge pod would have saved me $50 per side where as I purchased individual gauge holders. I have not really answered the price as I'm not a vendor however Steve at Custom Mini Shop is and he either has or can quickly get all the parts/pieces/gauges that you would want. He is very reasonable on shipping and will be at AMVIV in case you want to save on shipping costs I think he would just need the order to make sure he brings enough for your purchase. Everything from electric to stepper gauges and volts to oil pressure. Hope this helps.

 

I didn't know that a car hitting me at 25 miles per hour could do over $8000 worth of damage to my Mini.

 

Welcome to the world of crush zones! They all do nowadays--better crumbled metal than crumbled YOU. And if airbags were set off, and/or the transmission or engine was involved, well, you're lucky it wasn't totaled. And maybe it should have been...

 

Using low beam Bi-Xenon and fog lights in "Tule Fog" where visibility is measured by the dash lines in the road and it is not uncommon to only see 1 or 2 dash lines might not improve my visibility that much but it does help the other driver see me. I put a Go Mini third brake flasher on just to help the I - D - 10 - T behind me realize I was stopping. Just like driving in the day time I turn on my parking/fog lights just to keep me visible as I motor around.

 

Fog lights should NEVER be used with high beams. They are being cancelled with high beams for a very good reason - your safety. Most (if not all) cars with factory fogs do this. Why? Because if it truly is foggy, high beams will blind YOU, never mind the oncoming traffic.

In hardcore fogginess (and I've experienced the central California tule fog on a few occasions, truly frightening stuff) you're best off turning the headlights off altogether and just using the fogs. You can actually see better that way, just as you can see better with low beams vs high beams in fog that's not quite so thick. I wouldn't call the fog lights useless at all - when used properly. The rear fog is especially useful in thick fog, as it gives drivers behind you a much better chance of spotting you.

 

Normally the issue with the Fog is someone does not know where they are and yes its disorientating and ends up going the wrong way such as south bound on the north bound side of the freeway. Being seen is a huge assistance to avoiding the collision. This is an example of what is left after the fog lifts.

 

I hear about those fogs in California and other places, and can't imagine how they can be so thick as to cause those huge wrecks. I hope I never experience them! Then again, I've certainly had my share of the liquid air we laughingly call rain. I made a huge mistake in passing on the rear fogs because we don't get much fog here. It was a "doh!" moment when someone mentioned rain, but it was too late. My car was finally in production and they couldn't be added. The aftermarket installation is way too expensive...

 

Do the rear fog/brake light conversion. You don't get the option to turn them off (without unplugging them) but they will always be on if your lights are which is a great safety feature. They also DO have a dimmer output with lights on versus pressing the break. The whole kit isn't that expensive and it's pretty easy to install

 

FYI, and sorry if this was covered earlier, fog lights are designed to shine under the fog and show you a bit of the road ahead, as well as the lines on the road. They're mounted low, since there's usually a slight clear space between fog and the ground; and they only light with the low-beams because high beams, as mentioned above, will simply illuminate the fog itself and do little more than blind your view altogether.

Don't confuse fog lights with driving lights, which actually are designed to supplement your high beams and light the road farther ahead. Fog light beams are pitched downward to undercut fog and show you the road immediately in front of your car. Simply put, you'd use driving lights in conjunction with high beams, and fog lights with low beams... or fog lights alone, if possible.

Spridget