Originally Posted by Raymo2u

I never saw screws in the area on mine...Its just the 2 bolts behind the grill, and a bolt under each wheel arch to remove the bumper...

Originally Posted by njaremka

I had the ClutchMasters steel flywheel with FX100 kit, and it handled my Prototype-R Stage 2 tune without drama. Since my car was a daily, and the wife occasionally drove it, I wanted as close to stock feel from the replacement clutch. Mission accomplished with the steel flywheel and FX100 kit. I also paired it with an MFactory mechanical LSD at the install. The car just hooked up and drove.

If your car is a daily, my recommendation would be to skip the puck style clutches. You'll hate life in ANY kind of stop-n-go traffic. Those clutches tend to be very "On / Off" in their engagement.

When you get in there, plan on replacing all the seals. Have a full set on hand. If the crank seal isn't leaking, and you don't disturb it, it should be fine to leave alone. The axel seals need to be replaced every time an axel is pulled. If you install an LSD, you'll also have to replace the gearbox input shaft seal.

You'll also want to have a new clutch release lever, pivot bearing, and guide bushing, Since you'll be dropping the subframe, also a good time to swap out the rear control arm bushings and sway bar bushings. I kept the OEM front sway bar, but replaced the bushings with SuperPro poly bushings.

I might be forgetting something, but this should get you pointed in the right direction.