Ahh yes, that would be correct with the yellow arrow. I didn't look at another picture and it has been a few years since I did my clutch. I was just guessing that is what the 3 holes were, but it seems that wouldn't be it then. So yeah, that is very interesting on their part. I suppose you will have to line up the cams with the locking tools and go from there. You could pull the starter and mark the flywheel teeth with a line, lining it up to a mark on the block or bellhousing. That way when you put it back together, you can be sure the marks are lined up so it is all good. You may be able to do the same with pulling the crank sensor out, but I can't remember how big the hole is for that.

 

Thanks @Coz3z3 I think pulling the starter out would be a good idea for that extra peace of mind. I have never pulled a starter out, but I guess I have to do it just to make sure timing is as good as it can get. I should probably make a post about the Spec flywheel so others don't make the same mistake as I did, even though I don't really find people on NAM using their products.

 

That is one of my biggest gripes with those aftermarket flywheels. I spent over a month talking with manufacturers to find out who actually included a timing hole when I shopped my flywheel, and at the time, only ClutchMasters included one. I think for you, if your flywheel has no timing hole, the only way to get the timing job done correctly is to drop the transmission. There is no other way to make sure the crankshaft is lined up and doesn't move during the procedure.

 

Man I hope it dosnt come to that. I am going try the starter marking thing @Coz3z3 mentioned and hopefully it works. When I bought the flywheel I didnt have a clue about them not having the spot for the locking pin to go into. I whish there was some sort of disclaimer about that on the manufacturers web site and sites that sell these products. It seems like a glaring issue since R56 needs its timing chain done at least two to three times in its life time.

 

From my research, it seemed like the early manufacturers had no clue about the timing procedure. Either way, I hope you get it worked out.

 

Hi guys I am back. Had to put the repair on hold for a few days, but getting back into it now with an issue of course. So I am trying to lock the camshafts with the tool I got and decided to check the pistons to make sure they are all at the same height. After turning the camshafts about twenty or thirty times I find that the outside two cylinders rest at a certain height, but the two inside cylinders rest at different height. I stuck a metal thread dowel into each cylinder and have two pictures of the inside cylinder and outside cylinder. Am I going crazy or is the timing off already on this engine? I have read maybe four or five posts on NAM and another mini forum and it seems that all cylinders need to be at the same height for correct timing.


camshaft markings always on top

camshaft markings always on top

Outside cylinders at there own height, bottom of tape almost at top of spark plug hole.

Inside cylinders at a different height, bottom of tape well into the spark plug hole.

 

If you aren't locking the flywheel, there is no way to know where the cams should be.

 

How close are the cams when you do get them about even? I think that the timing is already off. Maybe just a tooth or two since it still ran. To more or less find where it could be close to timed, I would follow what OldBrokenWind said in this post here: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-question.html

Although, I do agree with Nik that it is going to be difficult to find where they should be, I would imagine there is a way to find out where everything should be lined up correctly.

 

@njaremka Yah I am definitely grasping that now. I just wonder if I can drop the oil pan and just look up directly at the crank?

@Coz3z3 Honestly I have googled my issue and have not found an easy answer to this. I saw the posts made by @oldbrokenwind and his suggestion of just using an oem flywheel seems to be the only correct method. The only other way I can think of is dropping the oil pan and looking at the crankshaft to make sure its 90 degrees BTDC.

Edit:: I am just surprised there isn't another solution to this issue since these darn aftermarket flywheels have been around for quite a while. And they are still selling these things smh.

 

Ok so I think I figured out a way to make sure the crank is timed correctly. I was watching Eric the guy replace the flywheel on his Mini and I noticed something about the reluctor wheel. I took a screenshot and put a red arrow towards a hole on the reluctor wheel which is visible when looking through an endoscope. I have also attached a screenshot of my own reluctor wheel. When the crank is timed properly the hole on the reluctor wheel is slightly towards the front of the car. I have checked the rotation of the reluctor wheel and it matches the camshafts being in the locking position. I think this would be my best bet to make sure the crank is timed correctly and also checking the piston heights when torquing the crank bolt.

 

Well the reason I mentioned the post, was to follow exactly what he said. You have the dowels in the spark plug tubes. So I would rotate the engine until they are all even. At that point, I would rotate it some more and see which one falls. If cylinder 1 starts to rise, and cylinder 2 starts to fall, that would be correct according to his post. I would then look at the camshafts and see how close they are to lining up for the locking tool and if the writing is the correct way. From that post, that would be the correct way and knowing you are at the 90 degree BTDC. Whether it is or is not, I would do it again for one more CAMSHAFT revolution (where the writing is back up again) and see where that leads me and to more or less confirm the correct orientation.

As far as the timing being off. I remember when mine slipped, I had to physically move the cams where they needed to be once I loosened the chain. Although, the flywheel was locked so I knew that portion was correct. But, my camshaft tool did not line up correctly when the flywheel was locked in because I had skipped a couple teeth.

For dropping the pan, I don't think that will necessarily show anything. I think you need to pull the head (which I know that is the goal anyways) and then watch the pistons until they line up and are on the correct stroke. You are taking the camshafts off anyways, so when you reassemble them, you are going to put them back in the correct orientation and with the tool. So those will be in timing spec. It is just going to be the crank that needs to be in the correct position. There is definitely another solution for getting this done. Think about if you were doing a complete rebuild on the motor with all new internals and you are putting it back together. You install the crank, then rods and pistons. Your next thought isn't to install the short block back into the engine compartment with the transmission so you can lock in the flywheel. It is probably going to be getting the cylinder head on with timing chain and camshafts so you can install the motor altogether as one whole piece. So it has to be able to be "timed" without the dependency of a flywheel and bellhousing.

 

FYI, you can lock the flywheel without installing the engine and transmission to the car. The flywheel gets locked through a hole in the back of the block, next to the oil pan. This can be done with the engine on a build stand.

 

@Coz3z3 Thanks for clearing that up it makes sense. I am so focused on the stupid flywheel other things just flying past me without any attention.

 

The locking tool DOES go through the block right???? I kept thinking it went through the transmission bellhousing. But, now that I am thinking about it, I believe I had it backwards.

 

Alright so I got the head of the engine and took out the valves and valve stems. I have attached some pictures of my dirty valves too which I don't know how long ago were cleaned. I also looked on youtube for advice on how to clean valves out of the engine, but I am having a tough time with mine. The big chunks on the back of the intake valves are not problematic, but the carbon on the face of the valves is proving difficult to remove. I sprayed the valves with carb cleaner and it seemed to have some effect, but the carbon on the face is very stuck on. I also sprayed carb cleaner on the face and let it sit until the fluid evaporated, yet I cannot seem to take the carbon off with a scrub pad. Then I decided to leave a valve in some paint thinner for a few hours and again no luck getting the carbon off. At this I point I think I should just fork out for new intake and exhaust valves. Would anyone have suggestions on any kind of cleaner I can try? I have tried also tried plastic bristle brush on a drill and did little to nothing to remove carbon on the face.

Big chunks which I easily took off with my fingers



The build up on the face is rock hard. I tried using an exacto knife to take off the carbon, but did not help.