Mother was on the interstate and the car started smoking is what she says. She pulled over and a state police pulled up and had a tow truck on the way. After work I called the tow company he said there was oil all over the expressway and his tow truck. He says she blew the motor and take him the title and he would give her $300. I told him not so fast, that I would stop by next day and trailer it.

I got it home oil was on the low end of the stick safe range, a few hundred miles ago it was halfway, signs of oil on the fan cover, It look like the valve cover gasket leaked in front, but not all over the engine . compartment, then I noticed that the coolant bottle was empty so I poured distilled water and it poured out what looked like the water pump.

I turned it over to start it to check for oil leaks but it would crank but not fire.
I check for codes with my Foswell nt510 elite and got 7 codes faults.
1 CAS
2 DME
3 TRANSMISSION CONTROL
STABILITY SYSTEM
8 FRM
9 AUTO HEATING
10 INSTRUMENT CLUSTER KOMBI

Im waiting for an adapter to checkout the compression. I do have spark. I know I need valve cover, water pump,pipe and thermostat housing just don't know what else.

 

Inspect the timing chain and guides for damage and tension after you remove the valve cover. A special tool would be required to verify the engine's mechanical timing.

Document the fault codes and then clear them to see which ones remain active.

 

The special tool you mentioned is that the one that goes in the flywheel or in my case flexplate?
I have a compression gauge but I'm having a rough time finding a m12x1.25 adapter. Can you recommend one?

 

@al b ,

The special tool @Maybe, maybe not is talking about is the camshaft locking tool as well as the flywheel locking pin like photo below:

 

Before you clear any codes; check your freeze frame data in the DME. Once you clear those codes, the freeze frame data is gone. What you are looking for in an Overtemp DTC; you'll want to know how hot the engine got, and that may be captured in the freeze frame.

Before you buy any parts, you'll want to use an articulating fiber scope in each cylinder; articulate the scope up toward the spark plug and inspect the valve seats. N series engines tend to drop valve seats once they are overheated, and that's a very expensive repair. Word of caution on the compression check. I've see N series engines with acceptable compression and leak-down, but the valve seat would loosen once the engine reached operating temp; the loose (moving) valve seat cause intermittent misfires in the cylinder.

 

Mkov608 what do I need to read the freeze frame? I'm also not familiar with the camera you speak of

 

Oh boy! Perhaps you should enlist the skills of a qualified mechanic.

 

You will need a good scan tool, preferably one capable of reading BMW codes.

 

I had a chance to check the Mini today. The CAS fault went away, i would say on its own. The DME has for codes P013a and P0420. Also found In a freeze frame that the coolant reached 129⁰C. I also found a P173b code using my Foxwell nt510 elite.

 

1) Fix the coolant leak(s)
2) Top off coolant and engine oil
3) Clear codes
4) Focus on no-start diagnostics

 

The engine getting to 265⁰ is not a problem for the engine?

 

The severe engine overheat is DEFINITELY a concern. Doing no-start diagnostics will either confirm or alleviate your justified concern.

 

Which articulating fiber scope should I get that fits in the sparkplug hole?

 

The spark plug thread diameter is 12 mm.