2007 MCS N14...Long story short...just replaced the head gasket, timing chain, vacuum pump, mechanical water pump, cross over tube, thermostat, most gaskets/o-rings etc. The previous owner had problems with the engine overheating when coupled with oil in the coolant (failed oil filter housing gaskets) and gummy intake valves led me to do the head job. I was under the impression he had replaced the auxiliary water pump recently...and it looks like he had. I've been monitoring the engine temp while driving it (nothing over 216 degrees f.) and have just over 60 miles on it now since getting everything back together.

Have driven it without any OBDII codes but do get this code when I run the BMW diagnostics using the Foxwell NT 520 Pro I picked up a few months back. When I do an automatic scan for diagnostics I get a "DME Fault 1" which apparently is related to the auxiliary water pump.

This is the actual code/description 2F37/present | DME Auxiliary Water Pump activation.

Is anyone familiar with this issue? It's not an expensive part so I'm considering just buying one and replacing it to be safe.

Is there a way to test the auxiliary water pump's operation?

 

Check to make sure the plug is snug and tight. I think the pump is a two wire device so you could apply 12v to it or listen to it when you shut off the car.

Also, check newtis.info for wiring diagram and connection.

 

I had a similar problem a few weeks ago. First I listened for the pump to confirm that it was not running. Next, I used a voltage meter to confirm that the pump was getting power. Once I narrowed it down to the pump, I ordered a replacement MINI 11537630368 from FCP Euro and picked up a gallon of coolant from the local BMW dealership. Total time to replace and do a much needed coolant flush was about an hour. If you don't have the Bentley MINI Service Manual, I'd recommend getting one. The manual takes all of the guesswork out and saves countless hours of seemingly endless forum searching.

Good luck.

 

@MiniToBe @scotty_r56s ...thank you both for the advice. I'm not sure how to test it by listening for it running unless it's supposed to operate by default when you apply current to the circuit (key inserted in the ignition?)...it's a push button starter which is a new thing for me. I couldn't tell if it was operating when I put the key in the ignition and pressed it in as if I were going to start the engine. I think I'll do as you suggest and replace it just to be on the safe side. I'll definitely double check the plug before I do but the engine by is pretty warm right now so I'll have to wait a few hours.

I do have the Bentley...I've got one for my two Gen 1 Mini's and recently got one for this new addition (Chill Red 07 MCS). I've also been all over the Newtis website as well as the RealOEM website...all three resources were invaluable while I disassembled pieces to get the head off and have everything checked out. Completely removed the front end and for whatever reason...got in a hurry I guess...I separated nuts/bolts by related parts but then failed to label everything or take any pictures. The RealOEM website made putting it back together a whole lot easier so cheers to both!

Anyway...Drove it to/from work today without any problems (approx 50 miles each way). I'm currently only running distilled water and radiator flush because the coolant system was contaminated with oil because the oil filter housing gasket failed and allowed the oil to enter the coolant system. I've got two gallons of the blue 50/50 coolant recommended for BMW/Mini's ready when I drain the system this weekend.

Thanks again for the suggestions and sharing your experience.

 

I could be wrong, but I think the only time it runs is when you shut down the engine..

 

I'll give it a check tomorrow then! Maybe that's it...Thanks for the suggestion.

 

I also have the Foxwell scanner. Is there a test to activate the pump?

 

There is a test but I haven't been successful getting it to activate using the diagnostics.

 

Not sure how much help I can be, but I had the aux water pump failure on my 2012 S. I run a ScangageII and on the 2012 and on the N18 engine the MINI spits out an “oil temp”. I put it in quotes as it is not a true temp reading. It is a calculated value, but none the less it is useful. When the pump died, I saw 280-ish deg F oil temp out on the track. This was up about 30 deg over when it was running correctly. Without the temp reading I noticed that the radiator would turn on and run for a long time; 10 minutes or more. This occurred even in cold weather (winter here in NE). This doesn’t happen when the aux runs correctly. The other thing is that, if is quiet around the car, you can hear the pump running for a few minutes after the engine is turned off. It is a very faint whir-sound. I can hear it with the bonnet closed. I am not sure, but I would have to believe that the engine, water and oil need to be well into the running temperature.

The frustrating thing about this is that MINI buries the code for this failure and you won’t know that it has failed unless you know what to look for. I have to believe, with the turbo cooking the oil the way it does without the aux pump working, the life of the turbo will be greatly shortened. Hope you get it figured out....

 

Shout out to @PelicanParts.com ...I have had to order a lot of small things to finish my repairs. The new auxiliary pump came in today ahead of the projected delivery date which allowed me to go ahead and change the pump. The new pump is definitely operating...I was able to hear it after I shut the engine off this evening. Still have a few gremlins to chase down but this is one less thing to worry about.