I've recently gotten interested in Mini's and have begun educating myself. I am interested in purchasing a used F56 platform with an N18 engine. Where / how would I find a TESTED, PROVEN, engine configuration and tune that can produce a reliable daily driver with 300 hp? Ideally I would like a set of engine specifications I could take to a quality builder to perform the internal work and then I would handle the bolt-on on accessories and re-installation. I'm looking for more of a wholistic picture than just a list of parts. I would appreciate any advice or referral to quality builder / tuners you can share.

N18 engine would be found in an R56…

If that was my plan, it shouldn’t take much. I would follow this recipe: Find yourself the best condition 2013 Cooper S hatch. The N18 engine will have all the latest enhancements. Add NM full intake, bigger front mount intercooler, catless downpipe, Milltek resonated exhaust, brand new OEM JCW turbo, and a tune from @Lou@Prototype-R . All that should get you somewhere between 250-280hp at the wheels, which would be just over 300hp at the crank. If you really need 300hp at the wheels, add a water meth injection setup and you’re there.

It’s a good plan, and shouldn’t take much, just make sure you start with the right car. Get one that was taken care of.

Here is your car - Exceptionally Clean and ready to be enhanced

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co.../market/364197

Note - you can find minis with much of this done, but sounds like you want to do the work. For my minis - I did complete engine rebuilds. One should be at that ~300 hp range, but be aware of torque steer in the 2cd gens

Thank you for your advice. I will begin researching the parts and reach out to the tuner. I'm competing for a sale on a 2013 R56 that should close next week, I noticed none of your suggestions mentioned reworking the crank or higher flow heads. Since I'm starting with a high mileage engine I'm planning to have the engine reworked to insure it's reliable. If you were going to break it open anyway would your recommendations change?

A very nice ride indeed. A little too expensive for a starting point though. If you see any already modified vehicles for sale that fit my description I am open to buying a complete vehicle. Thanks for the heads up.

Lou is a good guy and I will use him to tune my second build - as I am pushing the envelope more on that one.

I can't talk to the N18 well - just N14s. These were high milage engines that I wanted to address the timing chain, fuel and oil pumps - so felt like going the extra effort to rebuild ( new pistons, rods etc ... ).

There are a couple schools of thought or approaches. Don't crack the engine and learn off it with the upgraded components - then rebuild it when timing is right or it blows. The other is to pull it out first - rebuild, then put back in with all the new externals. There are plenty of guys on this list who are running higher hp cars ( easily 250 range ) without rebuilding the engine.

One option could be to do the bolt ons - run at the 230 - 250 range, then rebuild the engine for phase 2 to run higher boost. Note - costs really add up when pulling the engine and putting in new internals, not to mention clutch assembly and even an LSD if you have a manual.

I'm interested in pulling the engine and doing all the work up front. When I put it back together I want to know it's going to last. I live in northern Mississippi. The closest major cities are Memphis TN, Littlerock AR, Jackson MS, Nashville TN, and Birmingham AL. Do you know if any experienced Mini engine builders in this region? I could travel farther if necessary.

Another option to Lou is Lorenzo at RPM. His online store has a few engine components that you might be interested in. R300 and R400 are made specifically for the n14 but I believe he has some N18 cars he's worked on. Super knowledgeable guy that I recommend going to directly.

Just need to find one that works on / experience with Minis. Some people have bought complete engines built and had them shipped. My builder is in the Charlotte area ( Nascar shop who will do this work on the side ) and although quotes he 4 weeks - that usually doubles or triples.

There are some good threads on here - I just ran into this one ( Tigger 2.0 - still active, so can reach out to him ). I think it is an N18. Not sure if sleeving is something to consider for the N18 - here is a cool video on it. Just make sure your engine builder has worked on n18s.


https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ispreloading=1

FYI… @Tigger2011 = @Lou@Prototype-R

I would find the car you want, and drive it a little bit to get a feel for its condition. If you end up with a 2013 R56 with later N18 engine, chances are good that it will serve you well ever without a full rebuild up front. Heck, the early N18 in my 2012 R55 has served me VERY well for my duration of ownership. I bought it with 34k miles, got my first stage 2 tune at 42k miles, and it’s still running strong at 170k+ miles, original timing chain, turbo, and everything. I haven’t even had an intake valve cleaning yet! I did replace the clutch two years ago, but engine has never been opened. That’s why I suggested what I did. I don’t think you need to spend a lot on what you want, just look carefully for a good starting point.

And said better then me !

But if you really want to rebuild an engine and that is part of the journey - go for it ! Nothing more fun, challenging and often frustrating then rebuilding.

Thanks! Maintenance is everything with these cars. Take care of them, drive them, and they will be good to you.

If you really want to build the engine, there are some great resources here in the forums, you just have to search them out.

On routine maintenance, let us know how your first oil change goes and if there are any cuss words with the filter !


Note the mechanic says don't worry about cleaning the old oil off the filter cap / screw area ( I recommend you do - with perhaps cleaning your gloves for the reinstall ) and non oem oil dipstick !

Lots of good info and advice on this thread. If the engine is sound then I'd recommend starting with all the usual bolt on's and a tune. At that point it will be quick enough to plaster a smile all over you face. Don't forget the handling as its truly one of the most rewarding aspects of driving a Mini. If you add some coilovers, an RSB and some good brakes it becomes a track worthy lethal weapon. Few things **** off a Vette driver more on track than having a Mini pass him on a curve lol.

For a Prince engine to be reliable at 300 horse and above it needs forged pistons and rods imho. My definition of reliable is being able to drive it like you stole it on a regular basis while the engine is saying "What? Is that all you got?". You can sleeve the block or close the deck to truly make the bottom end bullet proof if planning on stupid power. I had PME Engines in Mooresville NC install my Darton MID sleeves on the new motor I'm building for my Coupe. Beside the extra strength in the barrel, the sleeves also close the deck so that the cylinders are no longer floating. A much less expensive option is just having the deck closed. Several people have used cylindersupportsystem.com in New Hampshire to close the deck for them.

If you go the first route above you can also buy a separate motor to build while your getting to enjoy driving the Mini. No need for a ported big valve head or cams if sticking with the 300-320 hp range. Good turbo like the Owens and water meth will get you there.

Happy Motoring,
Lou

Thanks to everyone for all the excellent information and diversity of opinion. I checked out the car I'm bidding on last week and it appears to be a good specimen. The auction closes tomorrow. If I win the journey begins and I'll put all the info that has been provided to use. Thank all of you very much for your help and interest.