I bought a Forge air intake hose for my 2013 MCS, but it is missing the hole and mount for a sensor that is on the OEM one. (pics shows the Forge unit sitting on top of ODEM now on engine)).
ESC Tuning says that's all they have and that it is spec'd for my car.

1. What is this sensor for?
2. Do I really have to cut a hole and rig up a mount for this sensor or is there another brand that has i

t?

 

You can plug the hose.
Then, get these for the wiring connectors:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-nm-engin...nm.658800~nme/

 

Thank you for the prompt and informed reply.

While I can plug the hose, I am curious: What is the hose for?
As far as the the delete kit, is that just to close the circuit in that fitting? Am I losing anything by plugging the hose and closing out that circuit?

 

That hose is an additional crankcase ventilation tube. Some Countryman models were shipped with that tube deleted. I would assume you shouldn't have any issue with the delete.

The two electrical sensor delete plugs are for the sensors to be happy.

 

Thanks. If I'm feeling fastidious, I may hook that hose to a catch can. I am VERY wary of valve carbon build-up, although it seems the latter-year N18s don't seem as plagued by the problem.

 

njaremka - beat me to it. He is also very knowledgeable.

I wanted to add some more Info to those years that run into a weird plug and no plug but dummy plug years on the evap system. Also if you have the dummy plug system you are ok with the hose (silicone) as connected. If it has the connection and the line that runs around back I am not 100% sure on that working and not throwing a code with using a cap or blocking the line off as it goes to the crank case, maybe njaremka has seen people do this. Most people that need the connection I have seen mod the side hose to insert that part taken of the factory line with end.



https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ir-intake.html

 

This is the incorrect tube for a 2013 MCS. I have the correct tube, it does not include the PCV tube connection and it has the nipple on the back for that vacuum hose. You need the N18 hose like the one at this link : https://www.ecstuning.com/b-m7-speed...56-318203~m7s/

 

Thanks, and/but.

I hope the ESC person on this thread will see this. Normally ESC has been great; not this time. It has been incredibly frustrating dealing with ECS on this. They sold me the part shown in my photo and said it was correct for my year R56S. When I called back to question the absence of the side port, they said to call Forge. Then I called Forge and they said they do not make an intake tube for N18s with two sensor (what two sensors??). Then I called back EcS and they said they would forward me to their MINI specialized. When I talked with him, he knew nothing than what was in the product description and said he was really a VW guy. I called again and they pretty much told me to pound sand because they've sold 100+ of these and I'm the first one to raise the issue of fitment.

 

Hmm i wonder if their sales data shows what year the car was that bought it. I have the green version and i can you the one you have is definitely wrong. However, you probs can get it to work with the resistors and plugs. Do you still have the packaging, can you ask them to return it and buy the right one? I've never had a problem with ECS but i will say i am very good at approaching my issues with the customer service reps to get to the end goal i seek. In your situation i would take what their rep says with a grain of salt. They only have 1 really knowledgeable fella for minis over there and he runs their forum account so he will likely chime in.

 

Thanks. I have no doubt ECS will be helpful with the return, and I'll cough up the additional $100 for the one you showed. I am not at all comfortable with blocking crankcase vent hoses or fiddling with sensors on a car that takes such joy in flashing cel warning lights at the slightest provocation!

 

Be aware that the M7 intake pipe also has sensor trickery, but it includes the port for the vent pipe

 

What does that mean, please?

 

In these two spots, there are electrical connectors:


The M7 intake pipe includes electrical modules that plug into those sensor connections to trick the ECU into believing that those sensors are still connected. My post #2 above is a link to the NM Engineering version of those sensor deletes.

Really though, unless you are trying to squeeze every last bit of power out of your engine and tune, that turbo inlet pipe isn't going to get you much over the OEM piece.

 

Thanks for your expert clarification but this whole thing has been exasperating. I'm not trying to do a performance upgrade; I'm just trying to replace my intake hose with something that is not tricking, or deleting, or blocking the stock vent tube or connectors. ECS, frankly, has been of little help on what seems like a fairly common replacement.

 

Sounds like you just want a new OEM stock piece. Get a refund for the Forge pipe, or try to sell it.

Here is a new pipe:
https://parts.seattlemini.com/p/MINI...717627501.html

You can check the part number and try to find a best deal online.

 

I figured you were upgrading...oops. If you have the stock turbo, then as njaremka mentioned id get the stock tube. I only went silicone when i upgraded my turbo and couldnt get the stock one on anymore. Another suggestion i can make is to get familiar with real oem and mfg part#s. You can put your car info into realoem.com and come back with all of the technical diagrams and part#s for just about everything on your car. It makes finding replacement parts very easy and also makes identifying parts on your car very easy.

Here is a link to my car which is a 2013 mini cooper s 6 speed slicktop.
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/par...-Mini-Cooper_S

Here is a link to the air intake tube diagrams and part#'s-your part would be #10 in the graphic and you can find the part number at the bottom. Then if you put that part# into google you will find a lot of stock replacements.
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=13_1212

 

Hello, Sorry about this, just PM me in the future. I am here to help. I am the MINI guy, I think the might have transferred you to the wrong person and then he/she did not contact me. I don't have people call into me as we have a sale teem and CS team that works with me.

Then we can figure things out and get things fixed. Its easier to PM me.

 

Fabulous, thanks. I am usually wary of OEM given the outrageous prices by BMW/MINI and often buy from suppliers like Mahle/Behr (which probably does the contract manufacturing for a lot of these BMW/MINI parts anyway).

After all that, I'm going with your M7. One of the reps at ECS (Devon) looked up the product specs from the manufacturer of the M7 and the sensor is only cut off so it does not read an air flow above what it expects. No harm in shutting down the sensor.

I appreciate the links. That's my next stop.

 

Aren't the two connectors for intake heating elements? (Edit: Yes)
Basically to raise the temperature pre-compressor to prevent moisture from dropping out and pitting the compressor wheel? (Edit: no)

Seems weird that they would add a second PVC hose a year-ish into N18 production unless it was necessary, so I assume there's some benefit (emissions or crank case scavenging) to having the extra PCV hose. Heaters are almost certainly there because they found some specific scenario where they were helpful enough to spend the money to install.

2024 Edit: The second port is an inlet to the crankcase, and is described as 'purge air' that cycles through the engine.
So basically this extra port is supposed to flow air through the engine to help cycle any suspended carbon/oil/water out of the engine before it condenses into the oil.
The Heaters are to prevent icing/blocking of these PCV ports, and *I think* are part of a 'cold climate' market package, not necessarily an option.



Peugeot RCZ inlets are easier to find in the "right" configuration, but I'm a little skeptical of any gains to be had either way. Also I think you need to cannibalize the fitting from the original inlet to use this.

 

First, yes, the smaller hose is a crankcase vent hose.

It continues to be a little frustrating and confusing, even with some knowledgeable help here. That connector on the right side of the hose has been variously described as a heater, an air flow sensor, and a "it doesn't matter." If a heater, and there for the reasons you suggest, why would it be okay to disconnect it? If an air flow sensor (as ECS contends) why woild the engine's ECU not detect an issue with it disconnected?

I just got the M7 hose today and, to my dismay, I see that it, too, requires you to disconnect this mysterious sensor/heater/thingy n the side and close the circuit off with a "replicator."

 

Just as an update to the above, these seem to have recently shown up on ebay, slightly different than the RCZ Version.




I think my plan of attack would be to either buy deletes from somewhere, or harvest the connectors from the old inlet, measure the heater resistance, and install an equivalent resistor, going heavy on the wattage rating.

Ideally these could be deleted (DTC suppressed) with a tune, but I don't know that anyone has bothered to figure out how.

 

What are you trying to accomplish? You can either get the M7 intake pipe, which has all the correct PCV connections and includes the resistors, or you can get the resistors separate. NM sells a delete kit that has the two needed resistors with the correct connector - they plug right in.

 

I was served an ad for that N18 inlet, so I figured I'd follow up on the last post about needing the RCZ Hose for cars with the second inlet.
M7 sounds like a great part, but this is 1/3 of the price, and the heater deletes should be simple to make from the original hose, or $10 worth of pins/resistors, or deleted as part of a DME flash/tune.

EDIT: for later...
N18 PCV Heater Info:

Large hose from valve cover:
Connector: E65391 / X65391 / E06539

Small hose from block:
Connector: E65392 / X65392 / I01572

DTC 0x37DE ?
OBD2 Poo code P053A "PCV Heater Control Circuit Open"
Heater Resistance = 15.2Ohm?