Are there any good clutch replacement videos?
that would be mostly engine removal.

first I was going to break exhaust clamp at bottom of CAT to get to oil pan that is leaking.
& replace clamp reseal oil pan.
But clear fluid is coming out of clutch housing also assuming the slave is leaking.
That is of course a bigger job!

 

I watched this video when I replaced my clutch. Clear fluid coming out? If I remember correctly. There is no fluid in the clutch area itself. The master cylinder is on the outside of the trans and pushes a big fork to engage clutch. I guess that could be leaking to the inside and out the bottom. That, you can just pull out though with two bolts. It's on lower driver side of trans. It's hard to miss. I would pull that (not the line) and see if it's leaking. If it's not, I would assume you have a rear seal thats leaking. Then yes, you might as well do the clutch and all that since you have to pull it anyways. Hope that helps!

 

I just watched the video above and I am REALLY glad I don't need a clutch right now.....

 

Yes I will watch it maybe after I do the oil pan cover.

Coz 3z3 you are probably right, I will have to look at parts schematic for slave.
& likely the oil is RMS!
probably a good time to do drive shafts.

Land Rover behind the mini has a clip attaches clutch arm to slave push rod & has to be connected.
attaching a clip onto a arm in a black hole!

 

Removing muffler clamp under engine & the rubber hangers, is there a method to pull the rubber hanger off the post?

by https://www.flickr.com/photos/38877577@N07/, on Flickr

 

I just used a small flathead screwdriver to shove in there and work it out

 

Small flat head screwdriver wedged in there, then a squirt or two of WD-40. Lubed up, those things will pop right off.

 

Thnx see how that goes.

 

We are out of stock right now on this tool, but the spray helps a bunch and then wiggle it. I have busted the rubber bushings in the past with a flat head and it torn the bushing. So watch that.

.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben.../008778sch01a/

 

Okay yes a screw driver fix.
so the oil pan uses Loctite 5970 liquid sealant 50ML no gasket.
would gasket maker eliminator 518 Loctite work also?

 

We have the old gaskets, MINI superseded to the loctite which some people like but might be a pain to remove due to the bonding and strong hold if you have to work on the bottom end for any reason.

https://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2007-...s_-and-_Seals/

 

Now that I see the flange sealant, I have used that to seal r100 BMW motorcycle cylinders, it is still in the frig appears okay.

but I prefer the gasket.

would you use the flange sealant with the gasket seal one side or any other sealer?

 

Its suppose to be one or the other.

 

Thanks looks like this is overdue, So ordered gasket.

 

All the bolts came out fine or started broke loose, save the one directly above the down pipe!
needed to go purchase a 1/4 “ drive set of which just allowed space to brake bolt loose!
You can sorta see above down pipe.

also what connector is this on clutch slave, as I have had some problems removing brake lines without destroying piping.
May be due to not having proper tool for the job, but looks like a special tool would be needed to hold & unscrew the slave piping?

 

Not sure about the oil pan one, but why is your downpipe still there? If you're removing the subframe to remove the trans, I took the whole exhaust out as it was much easier with it out of the way. So might as well do that first, then have better access to the oil pan. As for the slave cylinder, are you replacing it? Doesn't need to be disconnected from the line to be removed. Mine was connected the whole time, then you don't have to bleed the line when the new clutch is installed.

 

Trying to eliminate oil leaks first before I go all the way to removing engine.
space is quite tight in wintertime here.
sooo I am resealing the oil pan as leaks everywhere & will remove clutch slave to verify it is not leaking.
but I am seeing rust on slave & will need replacement sooner than later, to do so would need to understand those fittings first?

 

This was sealed with a sealer, from factory or? 96,000 miles assuming original.
it was leaking all around.
the seal shipping was almost as much as seal but should be better.

 

Yep, at some point they changed to sealant at the factory.

 

Any idea what tool required to hold the clutch line & unscrew the fitting on the slave piping, pictured above?

 

That fitting is a slip connection. The metal clip pops off, or pulls out, and the fitting separates. It is not threaded.

 

Thnx, assuming the clutch slave that the piping goes to is;

Output Cylinder Clutch

 

To get deeper into this will need to turn car around after I get the oil pan tightened, no room all the way in garage.
to remove the front cowling & a engine lift may be needed
Hopefully the gasket will save some oil leaks.