It's been a long, tedious process, but I FINALLY have the newly swapped engine on my Mini running beautifully. I ended up having to buy a new carburetor for it, a progressive 2-barrel unit that fits beautifully, and runs great as well. Because the original setup had an integrated intake/exhaust manifold, I had to purchase a new header as well, and replace the accelerator and choke cables, which were worn out.

I was only able to drive the Mini on the new carb for a day or two, when something happened with the clutch while I was driving down the road. I was travelling at maybe 40mph when the revs suddenly started to go up, while the car started to lose speed. I opened the throttle up a few times, and felt no power transfer to the wheels.

The car continued to decelarate, and I thought I had lost the clutch completely, when I found that the clutch had just enough contact to allow me to limp along at 5mph. I managed to bring the car home, and troubleshot the clutch system, which is a Verto unit.

As best as I can tell, there is no leaking of hydraulic fluid from either the clutch master cylinder or the slave cylinder. The line connecting the two is a brand new braided steel unit. The Bentley Manual I have only covers clutch adjustment for pre-Verto models, but I have looked online for wear limits and clutch adjustment for Verto units. I have made adjustments to the plunger stop and locknut, but have noticed no change in the performance of the clutch (or lack thereof, as the case may be).

I am wondering if the clutch disc has failed on me and is in need of replacement. The engine/transmission unit I have installed only has about 30,000 miles, so I can't imagine the clutch failing so prematurely. I did, however ride home some distance on the bad clutch, so I don't know how much damage I did by riding the clutch a distance of maybe 6 miles or so.

If I do have to replace the clutch, would this require complete removal of the drivetrain from the car? Because I know that the flywheel cover has an engine mounted located on it that mounts it to the subframe. Or is there an easier way of replacing the clutch without removing the engine? Thanks for any help you guys can provide.

So close, yet always so far...

- Angel Face

 

I've read in several places that you can do a cclutch job without removal of the engine. I have not done it, but I have replaced the clutch release bearing, and once you're inside the housing to do that, the clutch and pressure plate are easily gotten to. You will need to prop the engine up with a floor jack (or sturdy blocking) on the clutch end when removing the clutch housing. But I did it so it can't be too difficult. All this is explained in the Haynes service book.

 

Have you done a comprssion check on the head? This sounds alot like your head gasket went between number 2 & 3.

 

So would I simply loosen the bolts that hold the mount to the subframe from underneath, jack up the clutch side, and I should be able to remove the clutch cover?

Also, I definitely need to get a new manual. I spent $60 on a Bentley manual for my specific car and I think the only thing I have been able to use from it was a few torque specs, and some fluid levels. The documentation in it leaves a lot to be desired. I'll definitely look into that Haynes book.

I verified the compression on the head around the time we were setting up the new carb, and have normal compression.

 

The jacking up and unbolting the engine mount is straightforward. But you need to be careful where and how you place the jack or else you'll punch through the tranny sump. Getting to several of the housing bolts is a challenge. But it can be done. By all means, before you tackle this project, get the Haynes Service & Repair book.