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Can front INNER control arm ball joint be replaced?
Ive broken inner ball joints on both sides of my r56 again. The crap Dorman control arm with both ball joints installed lasted 16k miles. Best I can tell the inner press-fit ball joint is loose. I swore it was the inner tie rod end because this control arm had so few miles on it but after changing both the inner and outer tie rod together its still clanking so now I know its gotta be the darn Dorman control arm.
I see that Rock Auto sells just the inner ball joint (Delphi TC5057) but as far as I know this isn't serviceable on a R56 Cooper S. Is it?
They can be replaced, but I would be concerned about the new ball joint fitting the aftermarket control arm properly. Also, it’s not quite as simple as pulling the control arm and swapping the ball joint out. As mentioned, you’ll need a press or the special tool.
Interesting. I have that tool but why is Rock Auto the only one that sells just the inner ball joint?
FCP euro, ECS tuning, etc dont sell it. Why?
I think Im gonna pay a little extra for a Lemfoerder part (OEM). Im gonna change the ball joint at the knuckle too with a Lemfoerder ball joint...Dorman is junk. I dont wanna do this again.
Yes the inner ball joint can be replaced on the OE control arm.
VAICO V201434
*** 825 0313 10 ALT SD21581
The question is whether these are compatible with your aftermarket control arm.
Yes the inner ball joint can be replaced on the OE control arm.
VAICO V201434
*** 825 0313 10 ALT SD21581
The question is whether these are compatible with your aftermarket control arm.
yup. I don't know. Assuming they (Dorman) do use one of the 3 ballpoints you mention.
But the VAICO isn't available anywhere here in US that I can see, nor are the other 2 even sold here in US. Weird.
I just replaced both lower control arms and added new poly rear bushings while i was at it. I used new Delphi control arms which came with new ball joints preinstalled. My thoughts are replace the entire control arm along with new ball joints. Since the ball joints are only pressed in, that fitment is not super strong. In fact, factory recommends only once should the ball joints be replaced since replacement has the tendency of enlarging the factory spec hole diameter in the control arm (and that is what holds the ball joint securely). I've only put about 10K miles on my car since the work so i don't know how long to expect this to last. The factory control arms and ball joints are really expensive so if these don't give me good service, I'll do it again only with factory parts.
Thanks for your thoughts. Yes I did this with those POS Dorman units (both joints included).
The press in design is so stupid. The OEM ball joint literally fell out of the control arm when I unbolted it at 148k miles or so. But hey it lasted 150k miles..
I ordered OEM manufacturer units this time. Never again will use Dorman suspension parts.
Added the Vaico and Delphi versions. If you see anything that no one else has, most of the time we can get it through our connections. Thanks for the heads up on this one.
I have a mad clunking sound on small bumps...passenger side. 170k miles on this car BUT ALL suspension components were changed at 140k miles. Went through this before with the infernal clunking and found it was the inner ball joint.
I put the car in air and tested play in wheel side to side and up and down and man it was jiggling very badly with hands at 3 and 9 o'clock position. So this is ball joint or tie rods...definitely something broken so I spent quite come time looking at what might be moving. Sine the Dorman cntrol arm with ball joints only had 16k miles on it I thought...wow this must be the inner tie rod, which RARELY goes bad.
So I change inner/outer tie rod. Noise and wiggle still present. FRICK. Its the crap Dorman control arm. I change it for Lemfoerder with new Lemfoerder outter ball joint. Jiggle is now GONE!... but clanking is still as loud as ever. OMG why me?
The sway bar end links don't look bad and they were changed maybe 5k miles back and the sway bar bushings were changed a few thousand miles ago.
I'm gonna disconnect the anti-sway bar and see if the clanking stops. Ill double check the pinch bolt for the strut.
If that isn't it, it must be a broken tophat on the strut, or strut mount as Mini calls it...or a broken strut (Koni FSD with only 25k miles on them), but the car rides fine.
Might be the end ball joint also, the mounts usually mushroom and don't clunk.. most of the time. Make sure the top nuts are tight, maybe one worked loose and the shock is not tight on the mount or body? Should look close to that design and no mushrooming.
ah the outter ball joint. Ya I changed it when I changed the control arm, just in case. Its hard to simulate the loads/forces of the wheels on the ground and moving with just your hands on the wheel...
Coupe of years ago I chased a clunk on drivers side for eons...then I took the control arm off and the pressed in ball joint just FELL OUT of the control arm. CLANK.
My subframe is down, stripped apart fully, painting up all the metal parts with POR15. Including the steering knuckle.
Thanks for the inner and outer ball joint part numbers!
As good a place as any to ask… anyone have the part numbers for just the OEM replacement *rubber* bushings, right and left control arm? Just the bushings, not the new bushings already pressed into expensive metal bracket.
I thought about upgrading to Powerflex bushings but have heard some horror stories about NVH when replacing bushings in the front of car, such as torque mount and front sway bar and these control arm bushings.
Last edited by pkgmSu2000; May 19, 2025 at 09:49 PM.
My subframe is down, stripped apart fully, painting up all the metal parts with POR15. Including the steering knuckle.
Thanks for the inner and outer ball joint part numbers!
As good a place as any to ask… anyone have the part numbers for just the OEM replacement *rubber* bushings, right and left control arm? Just the bushings, not the new bushings already pressed into expensive metal bracket.
I thought about upgrading to Powerflex bushings but have heard some horror stories about NVH when replacing bushings in the front of car, such as torque mount and front sway bar and these control arm bushings.
2011 N18 R57
ECS “OEM” listing here but 2 of these ($80) gets you to about same price as set of Powerflex Poly ($93):
Added the Vaico and Delphi versions. If you see anything that no one else has, most of the time we can get it through our connections. Thanks for the heads up on this one.
got the OEM ball joints and OEM part number for 2011 N18 R57?
There is really no benefit to going with OEM for the ball joints, unless you have too much money in your bank account.
For the front control arm rear bushing, going with urethane doesn't add any noticeable NVH over the OEM rubber version. But, they will add much needed handling response and control. There is no discernable down side to going with PowerFlex for those.
There is really no benefit to going with OEM for the ball joints, unless you have too much money in your bank account.
For the front control arm rear bushing, going with urethane doesn't add any noticeable NVH over the OEM rubber version. But, they will add much needed handling response and control. There is no discernable down side to going with PowerFlex for those.
howdy good morning:-)
which brand have you used to replace the inner and outer ball joints?
Thanks for commenting on NVH. I’ve heard the NVH in the front is brutal with poly bushings while idling or in traffic
, but hardly any NVH at all in the rear with poly.
I just replaced the entire set of bushings in the back of my R55s with urethane - trailing arm, control arms, stabilizer bar, and strut mounts. There is no difference at all from the NVH perspective.
Coupled it with a stabilizer bar upgrade at the same time, and it's an amazing difference in handling.
I just replaced the entire set of bushings in the back of my R55s with urethane - trailing arm, control arms, stabilizer bar, and strut mounts. There is no difference at all from the NVH perspective.
Coupled it with a stabilizer bar upgrade at the same time, and it's an amazing difference in handling.
totally agree, rear poly no concerns. It’s the the front NVH that I’ve heard horror stories about.
which brand have you used to replace the inner and outer ball joints?
Thanks for commenting on NVH. I’ve heard the NVH in the front is brutal with poly bushings while idling or in traffic
, but hardly any NVH at all in the rear with poly.
Originally Posted by pkgmSu2000
totally agree, rear poly no concerns. It’s the the front NVH that I’ve heard horror stories about.
Sounds like you're getting your bushing replacements confused....
Control arm bushings have nothing to do with idling in traffic, that would be the motor mount bushings adding NVH under those conditions. Control arm bushings will only have an effect on suspension movement when driving down the road.
For motor mount bushings, there are (3) mounts in the Mini: Passenger side upper, gearbox/transmission mount, and lower rear "torque" mount. The most popular bushing replacement would be for the lower "torque" mount. The purpose of this bushing is to prevent twisting of the engine during power transfer. Stiffening this bushing make throttle inputs more sensitive, and sharpens the response of the engine.
Any motor mount bushing replacements WILL increase NVH for these cars. There is no way around that. Suspension bushing replacements will not add any noticeable NVH, unless you go with solid bearing style replacements. Those should only be used for dedicated race cars where NVH is not a concern.
Sounds like you're getting your bushing replacements confused....
Control arm bushings have nothing to do with idling in traffic, that would be the motor mount bushings adding NVH under those conditions. Control arm bushings will only have an effect on suspension movement when driving down the road.
For motor mount bushings, there are (3) mounts in the Mini: Passenger side upper, gearbox/transmission mount, and lower rear "torque" mount. The most popular bushing replacement would be for the lower "torque" mount. The purpose of this bushing is to prevent twisting of the engine during power transfer. Stiffening this bushing make throttle inputs more sensitive, and sharpens the response of the engine.
Any motor mount bushing replacements WILL increase NVH for these cars. There is no way around that. Suspension bushing replacements will not add any noticeable NVH, unless you go with solid bearing style replacements. Those should only be used for dedicated race cars where NVH is not a concern.
I have all 3 of these from Powerflex -Passenger side upper, gearbox/transmission mount, and lower rear "torque" mount.
just ordered the Powerflex control arm bushings :-)
If you already have the PowerFlex engine mount inserts, you're already at the max for NVH on these cars. Might as well throw all the PowerFlex catalog at the car, because nothing will add more NVH than what you already have.
If you already have the PowerFlex engine mount inserts, you're already at the max for NVH on these cars. Might as well throw all the PowerFlex catalog at the car, because nothing will add more NVH than what you already have.
yep, I’ve got all that Pflex offers for the Mini R57 :-)
