Hi guys, I have an opportunity to buy a 2010 Cooper S. It has a clean title, looks like original owner owner (all original documents included). It is a 6 speed and only has 27,000 miles on it.

I currently have a 2011 Cooper S manual and a 2003 Cooper base manual. My dad is a retired mechanic and we do most of the maintenance ourselves on our cars. We have a great mechanic who does work at a reduced price for when we need something really big done.

Should I buy this car? Is there anything that I should be particularly concerned about? I haven't heard the best things about the N14 engine, but I am also not afraid of any work it needs. We did everything but the timing chain on my 2011 Cooper S. Is it just wear and tear with the N14 or do I need to start working on stuff right away as the mileage is quite low.

Thanks!

 

With low mileage, I would be conscious of hoses and seals, oil or coolant leaks. Other than that, anything else can be dealt with as it comes up.

 

Awesome. I'm going to go buy it today.

 

Sounds like you might have a winner, take it out, get up to temp, drive her a little, and go from there. My 09 clubby is at 159450. Getting close to engine flush time again.

 

That's awesome. I hope I see that kind of milage someday.

 

No, no, no, You already have an '11 MCS. Why go backwards?

I have given this much thought. The proper MINI collection (in 2nd generation guise) is as follows:

JCW Hatchback preferably 2013 for N18
Roadster
Clubman

The latter 2 should be manual N18 S versions at a minimum, but JCW are obviously better if you can find and afford them. And ideally one of them should be BRG.

A convertible could be considered, but a Paceman and 2 seater Coupe are far too extreme.

The Countryman is too practical and so in a different category

Now even though these are all MINIs the only thing preventing me from fulfilling this fantasy requirement is a lack of parking space.



MacMini34

PS Is this 2010 a killer deal?

 

Lol I ended up buying it. Zero mechanical issues. Not a single ding on it . Two owners. Leatherette seats, xenon headlights, sport suspension, sport package, 17" black rim upgrade double moon roof, 6 speed, dark blue/gun metal with black stripes, software over ride so it's automatically in sports mode on start up, and more.

I have all kinds of extra accessories and all original documents and all service records from either dealership or a specialty bmw garage. Only two shops have touched the car. Every single recommended service has been and then some. I paid $9k. I know it's an older car but all it's basically brand new.

I have my mind is on the timing chain, tensioner, and guides. Maybe I will get all that done preemptively at some point. I don't know how many miles to do that at. Currently sitting around 27,700.

 

A 2010 should not need a cam chain chain for another 100K (?) miles?

Best grin factor for the bucks is a larger RSB - 20mm is a good place to start...

 

I agree on the RSB, but get a 22mm solid or 25mm hollow. Completely changed the mini when I did the 25mm hotchkins.

 

Nice buy. Need some pics.

How is the over ride done? Any idea? I almost always hit the sport button after a short warm up. It's anecdotal, but I think the exhaust pops deter tailgaiters and there are a lot of them around here.

cheers
MacMini34

 

Should I get just a rear bar or front as well? Some companies sell a pair.

Also what setting should the rear bar be on? Soft, medium, or stiff? How about front (if it applies)

Pic attached.

 

I’m running middle setting on mine and it’s perfect. The lowest setting I couldn’t tell a difference, moved to middle instantly different. Night and day different, I have only had it for a couple of months, so I haven’t played with full yet, going to leave it here for the year.

For now I am running stock front one. Don’t plan on changing it yet.

 

I have a 2010 r56s and absolutely love it! Bought it with around 80,000 miles on it. It just had the timing chain kit installed prior to me purchasing it. So far (knock on wood) it’s been trouble free. Just turned 101,000 and change this past week. I did the walnut blast last year, and check the oil level each fill up. I plan to keep it for a very long time, and can’t quit personalizing it with hop ups, etc. Such a fun little rocket

 

Looks great! Love the color.

If only street driving, just a rear will be fine. When you get serious, I would recommend adding the front bar, too. However, if you’re planning on keeping stock springs and shocks, just add a rear bar and enjoy.

 

No need to upgrade the front bar until you turn into a serious track junky!

As for setting: if you start with a 20mm; use the mid-point. With a 22mm or hollow 25mm use the lowest setting. Changing the setting is pretty easy. Best to get used to it by degrees as stiffer settings can have a very noticeable effect on reducing understeer. Stiffer means using a mount point closer to the bar's center.

Don't let anyone up sell you on the end links, the stock ones are fine.

Keep in mind that the RSB is just a torsional spring, that means that the stiffness of the spring (bar) is a function of bar's diameter raised to the fourth power.

Key takeaway: Small increases in diameter make a big difference in stiffness! In other words seemingly small changes in the diameter have a non-linear effect. Meaning way bigger than you would expect.

Changing the setting, (end link mount point) has a very linear effect.

The really cool benefit of upgrading the RSB is that it has almost no effect on ride harshness, unlike stiffer shocks and springs.

 

Fantastic info thanks guys! I will keep an RSB in mind for this year.

 

If I upgrade the sway bar(s) can I use the stock end links regardless of what setting the sway bar is on? Both front and rear? Thanks.

 

Yes, I am in the rear.

 

Cool thanks dude

 

Think about getting into a 2011 of later based on engine design

 

I own a Mini S 2010, and would suggest you go for a 2011 of later model based on an improved engine design post 2010. The 2010 has a history of front engine oil leaks, and timing chain issues after about 100K miles. If you are mechanically inclined, than take the challenge, the car is a blast.

 

I ended up buying the 2010. I have a 2011 as well with the n18. The n18 has a little bit more power and a little bit more torque. There's less lag in throttle response and power delivery is smoother.

That being said the 2010 for me it's more fun to drive than the 2011. The 2011 feels to mature and refined which I don't like. The 2010 has a much more raw feel to it. The engine is louder, The exhaust is louder, The diverter valve is louder, And it just has a different feel to it. It feels like a mini should. Also my 2010 has the double moon roof which I love.

My 2011 has about 92,000 miles more than my 2010. So I am selling my it. I did A LOT of work to the n18. Including fixing leaks. The issues that the n14 are alive and well in the n18. Oil starvation is the biggest problem with both cars which is why they get a bad rap.