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R56 N18 Engine slight RPM movement

Old Dec 27, 2020 | 08:53 PM
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N18 Engine slight RPM movement

I recently purchased 2013 R60 N18 Engine Mini Countryman S with 55K miles.
I've replaced air filter (it was really dirty) and cleaned Mass air flow sensor & spark plugs and ignition coils and had oil change. I kind of hoped oil change and spark plugs and ignition coils made change for idle problem however, It didn't seem like working out. I recorded a few videos as a reference. RPM moves up and down slightly (not erratically) and I do feel little vibration when rpm goes little down and I don't know why rpm bounce up and down when I shift in every gear when it stopped. Please advise!
there is no error code and CEL

 
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Old Dec 28, 2020 | 05:21 AM
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I cant be sure if this is normal or not but seems like it is actually!
Most of the cars do that RPM bounce(minimal) when you are in idel and start moving the wheel etc etc.
If you turn on your car wait 1-2 minute in order to end the cold start,,,and you dont do ANY move on steering or anywhere....It shouldnt bounce!
 
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Old Dec 28, 2020 | 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Staxtis
I cant be sure if this is normal or not but seems like it is actually!
Most of the cars do that RPM bounce(minimal) when you are in idel and start moving the wheel etc etc.
If you turn on your car wait 1-2 minute in order to end the cold start,,,and you dont do ANY move on steering or anywhere....It shouldnt bounce!
RPM is not steady even if I don't do any move on steering wheel. It happens when cold/warm and also happens when stopping at traffic lights etc. It also seems to happen when I press the brake harder while stopped at a light. No other issues at all. no loss of power.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2020 | 05:31 PM
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car vibrates when rpm drops...
 
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Old Dec 29, 2020 | 11:01 AM
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I think the RPM "bounce" as you put it, is the ECU doing what it should to increase revs prior to a downshift, to make for a smoother gearshift.

There's nothing wrong with that car in either video.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2020 | 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Mark_SF
I think the RPM "bounce" as you put it, is the ECU doing what it should to increase revs prior to a downshift, to make for a smoother gearshift.

There's nothing wrong with that car in either video.
That's not what I'm talking about. I know downshift makes rpm bounce up My problem is when the car is stopped at light and idling and rpm goes down and back to normal with vibration.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2020 | 12:32 PM
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I don't think there is really an issue with your car but another possibility is a vacuum leak. The PCV valve on the valve cover is one common vacuum leak on these cars.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2020 | 01:58 PM
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I was observing mine this morning when I drove it. After coming to a stop the revs drop to a lower idle rate. This is quite common in modern cars, that the idle rate has a couple of levels and is lowered when at lights.

Yours might have a little bit of instability in the idle rate. I'm not sure how the N18 controls idle. Is there an idle or auxiliary air valve, does anyone know? If there is, I would clean it.

BTW, mine does not go to the lower idle rate when A/C is on. You might also try sport mode, I bet this keeps the idle higher.
 

Last edited by Mark_SF; Dec 29, 2020 at 08:09 PM.
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Old Dec 30, 2020 | 03:30 AM
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Keep an open mind, or let me blow it for you.
I'll think your battery may be weak. Probably a dead cell.
My reasoning.
That steering is electric and puts a draw on the system. The alternator can't do it all at idle. You need 12.2 volts or higher constant, from the battery.
Idle is too low, when not using wheel. They all vibrate at 700 rpm. Low idle is also a symptom of low voltage from the battery.
Mini service will never tell you this. They just don't understand electrical theory.
How do I know? Happened to me. Took 3 dealer visits and then battery died and I knew, once they replaced it, that that was it, all along.
Want to test this theory?
Make sure both battery terminals are clean.
Get a battery load test at a battery supplier like VIP, or whoever you have that has a load tester and knows how to use it and make sure off voltage is 12.4-13.9 volts. Any lower, replace it.
Try sitting with engine off and emergency flashers on for two hours. Can't do it? replace battery.
If battery seems good after all these tests, it may be that alternator / regulator. Hopefully it's just a battery.
You may think I sound crazy, but I'm telling you, batteries cause tons of issues you would not expect.
​​​​​​​
Have fun. ;-)

Originally Posted by yyj3869
I recently purchased 2013 R60 N18 Engine Mini Countryman S with 55K miles.
I've replaced air filter (it was really dirty) and cleaned Mass air flow sensor & spark plugs and ignition coils and had oil change. I kind of hoped oil change and spark plugs and ignition coils made change for idle problem however, It didn't seem like working out. I recorded a few videos as a reference. RPM moves up and down slightly (not erratically) and I do feel little vibration when rpm goes little down and I don't know why rpm bounce up and down when I shift in every gear when it stopped. Please advise!
there is no error code and CEL

https://youtu.be/t8h0CWHUrzs
https://youtu.be/VLRTBXYtrTA
 
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Old Dec 31, 2020 | 02:45 PM
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From: Socal
Originally Posted by thebestbear
Keep an open mind, or let me blow it for you.
I'll think your battery may be weak. Probably a dead cell.
My reasoning.
That steering is electric and puts a draw on the system. The alternator can't do it all at idle. You need 12.2 volts or higher constant, from the battery.
Idle is too low, when not using wheel. They all vibrate at 700 rpm. Low idle is also a symptom of low voltage from the battery.
Mini service will never tell you this. They just don't understand electrical theory.
How do I know? Happened to me. Took 3 dealer visits and then battery died and I knew, once they replaced it, that that was it, all along.
Want to test this theory?
Make sure both battery terminals are clean.
Get a battery load test at a battery supplier like VIP, or whoever you have that has a load tester and knows how to use it and make sure off voltage is 12.4-13.9 volts. Any lower, replace it.
Try sitting with engine off and emergency flashers on for two hours. Can't do it? replace battery.
If battery seems good after all these tests, it may be that alternator / regulator. Hopefully it's just a battery.
You may think I sound crazy, but I'm telling you, batteries cause tons of issues you would not expect.

Have fun. ;-)
I recorded one in the morning. Please let me know if you notice something. Thanks for your help! Happy New Year!
 
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Old Jan 1, 2021 | 06:29 PM
  #11  
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Looks like normal behavior. On cold start rpm is raised in order to bring the catalytic converter up to operating temperature as quickly as possible. The ecu also compensates for additional torque loads placed on the engine by the AC and alternator. When decelerating to a stop the ecu is going from a very lean condition and returning to a lambda of 1.0. This does not happen instantaneously and the ecu uses timing for idle correction so some bounce until fueling stabilizes is normal.

 
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Old May 24, 2023 | 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by yyj3869
I recorded one in the morning. Please let me know if you notice something. Thanks for your help! Happy New Year!
https://youtu.be/AapqdjdBoBE
hey, have you gotten it solved?
 
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