I'm close to purchasing a 2011-2013 R56 and wanted to speak with the community about your experience with the vehicle's overall reliability.

Essentially, my biggest concern/question is whether or not to keep my current car or trade it in. I see myself using the MINI as my daily driver even if I kept my old car, so I want to avoid just holding onto it out of nostalgia's sake. One of my good friends owns several other German cars (Volkswagen & Audi) and he warned me that it would be very wise to keep a 2nd car on hand when something inevitably went wrong. Another friend suggested it isn't financially smart to just keep 2 cars when in all reality I'll be driving the one and the second would be there when a just-in-case situation arose. However, neither of these friends own a MINI; I'd like to get real input from real owners. After reading forums/posts/etc, it seems that there are some who view the cars as very dependable, and others who seem to have it break down consistently. Of course there are many factors involved here, all taken into consideration.

So I'm looking to the community to get a realistic opinion on the MINI's actual reliability as a daily driver. I'm looking at a 2011 through 2013 CooperS with 60-80K miles. My current car is a 2012 Kia Forte with 170K on it; so I'm not planning to get much as a trade in. Plus, I don't see myself getting up in the morning and saying...ya know, I really wanna drive that Kia instead of my MINI. I also understand there is going to be the standard wear-and-tear on the car as well; that's why I'm looking at the (somewhat) low-ish mileage for it.

Please let me know if you have any other questions, etc. Thanks, and I'm definitely looking forward to seeing what you all have to say!

Cheers,

jroode

 

My wife drives a 2012 S with AT and at 66k miles. So far, the VANOS solenoid was replaced under original warranty and the water pump under extended Mini warranty for that part. The thermostat housing is due to be replaced as the temp sending unit has a small leak. Car has been serviced at a Mini dealer every 5k miles.

We've been lucky, reading some of the posts on NAM this is a stupid expensive car to maintain and repair. You don't take it to Jiffy Lube to get the oil changed. Keep in mind it's an European sports car (think Porsche, Mercedes, etc). If you're handy with a wrench (I am not), you can keep these costs down. For what it's worth, we'll be replacing it this year with either a Honda or Subaru.

 

I bought a flooded 2012 countryman S and my wife has been driving it for the past year. we put a little over 10k miles and so far, I changed the oil twice or three times. All I have on my driveway is minis, so if i dont drive the blue one, I drive the brown one, or the red, or green lol.
I think the point is, as AZdsrt hinted, you have to keep up with the maintanence and make sure you keep an eye on fluids. Mini loves to stay hydraded. Also, know the full history and if you decide to buy one, invest in bmw/mini software like ISTAD and some other sw packages that help with diagnosis and repair.
I think keeping a second car is always a good option if you have the space. you could certainly change the insurance to a "garaged" status until you need it.
key items to consider asking/inquiring about are:
thermostat
timing chain
water pump
oil fliter housing gasket
turbo oil feed line
water pipe
turbo health
oil change intervals (no more than 5k with full synthatic oil)

 

It is an expensive car to own if you are not handy with a wrench; just like any older BMW past the warranty period.
It also does not strike me to be of very high quality build to be honest. The 2012 R56 that we own does not have the solid feel of my BMW (albeit 4 years older than the Mini).
The plastics are harder inside, there will be cracking sound developing when very cold and everything feels cheap... Even the routing of the cabling in the engine bay and all that feels improvised, feels ... French. I owned French cars in my life .

The suspension is very very rough, and we are struggling with it on Boston roads.
I got it ad my wife liked the shape and size, very good handling and good power. Manual gearbox (in our case) is nice to shift, but clutch is very heavy and grabby, so there is that. We only drive manuals, but we grew up in Europe, so ....
I had to change the sway bar bushings at 58k when I got it, it developed a crazy noise on the right side. I thing the rears are starting to develop a play too, so it needs done in the summer. The sway bar links are very worn also, I have 2 new ones waiting to be installed.
I never had to touch any bushings/ball joints in my BMW until 100k miles.
Otherwise, on a twisty road, put it in sports mode, and it does put a smile on your face. Always. As long as the road is smooth

Sorry to sound sour, but bottom line: if I had to buy it again, I wouldn't have. It is not a BMW, and it brings only the problems of a BMW without the quality feel.
A Golf GTI would be a much better proposition, although more expensive for the same generation and bigger in size.

 

I think I just spit milk through my nose laughing so hard!
I know everything is relative, but a better comparison might be Fiat, VW.
That was right up there like when people say their Viper is an exotic like a Ferrari or Lambo.
To the OP... I have only had mine for 6 moths or so, but it would have been cost prohibitive to have the dealer do the work that ended up being needed. Best to find one with zero issues or lights on to start with. Second car? I wouldn't keep the Hyundai as a back up. Cheaper to sell, then uber around if the mini is in the shop et al. Think of insurance and other expenses.
Good luck.
Troy

 

I bought mine 4 years ago, so around the age of car you are looking at and I entered the MINI mania fully aware that I was buying something old enough to require a fair bit of maintenance, failing parts and possible breakdowns. That being said I have a full set of garage tools, space to work, power and good weather. There have been no major breakdowns and I realise this is because I have preempted them by doing work. Timing chain, clutch, crank seals, water pump, thermostatic housing, brakes and discs... etc. I am at 55K miles and anticipate some running gear maintenance soon. 6K mile oil changes, filters, 2 yearly hydraulic fluid and coolant changes. Yes it all adds up but tell me a car that is now 10 years old that would not require work and I shall buy you a drink.

 

Can you stretch to an F56? My take, and the F56 owners can chime in here, is that they're quite a bit more reliable. I bought a 2011 S manual with just over 57k miles last Sept for what I thought was a good deal (private) at $7700. At that time F56 Ss with 60-80k miles were around $12-15k, but that was more than I wanted to spend. For us this is the second vehicle so (when?) if it breaks we have an alternative. I see a lot of '11-'13 R56 S's for not much less than the early F56s.

When needed, I'm hoping I can do most repairs myself with the aid of this forum and youtube. For you, as an essential daily, you need options (public transport?, Lyft?) and it's probably uneconomical keeping your Forte as a spare.

They're great fun to drive, but go in with your eyes wide open. Have you driven one?

cheers
MacMini34

 

I'm just going to speak on my view of my suggestion based on what ive seen post-wise since being on the forum.
Get a low mileage 2013 JCW and be done. Search on here specifically about the 2013 because that year seems to be the sturdiest with mild internal fixes that is less problematic than prior year mini's. Info about them is on here (trust me). That is how I ended up with mine based on my consensus on which car to pick. With that I will say: don't get a regular mini and don't get an S, hold out and save for a JCW. Reason I say that is when you look at posters seeking out mods, they usually wind up having a regular mini or an S and are intrigued by getting JCW mods. This to me is the more expensive (to upgrade to) rather than just buy the right year (2013) JCW from the beginning and you wont be sorry. I have enjoyed my car to the fullest and its defiantly not a headache to own like some of the other years ive read about and know about from friends who didn't heed to known information. 2013 is the most reliable R56 year to get PERIOD.

 

Just make sure you have a repair plan in place. A shop you trust or your own skills.

They are fun cars to drive, ours is a toy, don't drive it in winter at all.

Like said above, you can rent a car once a year, if need be, cheaper than owning a 2nd car.

 

While I agree with your overall logic (getting the right one from the start), I beg to differ in regard to reliability. The non-S LCI is equally reliable, if not more (as it does without the HPFP and the Turbo while at the same time having received any updates the N18 JCW has). So, if one can rule out yearning for more power than what the base Cooper provides, the N16 engined R56 is the most "reliable" (*) year to get.

*: "reliable" (whether more or most) is the wrong word to use when describing any R56. "Less/least fault prone" is probably more appropriate, especially for someone having owned any car built by a japanese car maker (inclulding one that was developed in Europe, designed by a greek and built in France, "home country" of the R56 petrol engines). Not to mention any car built in Japan itself...

 

I was implying about a specific MODEL in the mini line up being the most reliable, if you read it again, I was stating that the "2013 year" was the better year to get because it didn't suffer from all the mechanical snafus experienced in the earlier years. If one were to lurk on this forum and read some of the problematic issues from some of the posters inquire for help on, you very seldom you see its an issue with a 2013, its usually a much older early year mini. I'm sure that's the risk as cars age, but with all the information provided on this board, one can easily determine that the 2013 no matter which model you pick is a very solid year to buy.

 

Indeed you did, I'm sorry I misread your post. However, it remains to be seen whether the 2013's will increasingly show issues as they get older themselves.

Also, I would like to add that in the case of a JCW specifically, getting a 2013 one is even more important compared to other R56 models as the JCW only received the updated engine from March 2013 onwards (whereas the base Cooper and S received updated engines from 2010 on).

 

I really like my 2013 justa Cooper in dusty blue with white bonnet stripes and manual gearbox. Picked it up from the first owner last May with 23K miles on it (it was used mostly for camping—pulled behind a motor home). Now have 35K on it and I’ve done all the maintenance myself: two oil services (so easy to do when you vacuum the oil out through the dipstick), engine and cabin air filters, roof antenna base replacement, brake fluid service, and most recently replaced all the brake pads (the OEM BMW pads by TRW produce a lot of wheel dust and wear down fast). Next on my list is engine coolant service, spark plugs, and an aftermarket bushing kit install for the rear engine mount to improve power transfer.

This is our third Mini and first base model (sold a Clubman S and wife now drives a 2018 F60 Countryman JCW All4–love it but a very complex Mini). The Cooper returns impressive fuel economy (mid-40’s for my driving) on mid grade fuel. I believe the justa models inherently offer more reliability because they don’t have all the turbo complexity. Also, used Mini’s are relatively inexpensive to buy since their depreciation is very steep.

I know I was lucky with my justa find, and hope you are too. Nothing wrong with a last of the generation base R56 if you adjust your performance expectations (fortunately I also have a GT500 when I need a horsepower/torque fix). Good luck in your search for your Mini!

 

I bought a used 2013 that had 130k on the odometer. I immediately replaced the turbo and all four struts do to mileage and at 155k, replaced the thermostat housing. With 5k oil change intervals, it has been a fairly reliable daily driver now with 165k on the clock.

 

Buying cars is rarely if ever a sound financial decision. Would be hard pressed to find something more expensive as a car that depreciates in value as a percentage as fast and as much as cars. That being said likely a majority of Mini drivers buy one for the unique experience, the styling, and enjoyment of driving. You buy a Mini because you want one. There will always be unique cases of why a Mini fits someones specific requirement or need, but much of Mini purchase decision is influenced by desire for various reasons.

I like many others purchased for the fun factor of driving.

If I were in your position, if the Kia is paid off keep it and get the Mini if that's what your heart desires. Buying a seven to nine year old car, things tend to not function as they did when new. This is balancing risk, how much do you want to leverage being the Mini your only car or a fun car that your not totally dependent on. No one can make that decision but you, as you'll own the outcome of the decision.

My Mini is not my only car. I've been pretty fortunate with my '11 MCS with 61k. I've had no major issues or component failures. Though I just as a couple weeks ago now have a small coolant leak. Likely the coolant distribution housing and or associated tube. Again a nine year old car, not unexpected. So it sits, until I can get my other project '87 Buick Regal Turbo -T interior referb project complete.

Best of luck on your decision.

 

regarding maintenance costs - have you checked labor rates at your local VW or Honda/Acura dealer lately? In my area, they are $180 - $220/hr. No, I'm not exaggerating. Maintenance on any car these days is going to be expensive if you pay someone else to do it. Honda and Toyota have great reputations for reliability, but that may be left over from the past and the reliability of more recent models isn't reflected in the reputation yet. I have 2002 Acura with 320K miles on it that just keeps going, but I wouldn't expect that kind of reliability out of any car built within the last 10 years - increasing use of plastics for cost and weight reduction, more highly stressed engines, and more complexity mean that stuff just isn't going to last as long. If you are looking for a car that will have great reliability and minimal maintenance costs, buy something Japanese from 1995 - 2005. That seems to have been magical period of super high reliability. After that, the regulations for fuel efficiency and the increasing complexity of electronics for engine and suspension control made reliability go down hill.

Having said all of that - my 2012 R56S has been very reliable for almost 8 years and 100K miles. Though I just had to replace a coolant pipe because the PLASTIC t-fitting in the pipe broke and I was losing coolant. If you want an R56S, you definitely want the N18 engine (2011 - 2013) which has not had the problems that the N14 engine has, and especially look for a car built after March 2012 so you avoid the failure prone high pressure fuel pump that was on the earlier engines. Check out the Gen2 FAQs, there's a bunch of information there about the various issues.

With some care and attention, the N14 problems (timing chain tensioner, HPFP, carbon build up) can be solved, but unless you get a great deal on a pre-2011 car with the N14 engine I'd go for a post March 2012 car with the N18.

 

My R56S was built March-April, 2013. The HPFP failed suddenly at around 8,000 miles, so regardless of build date, I would check to see if your car's HPFP has been replaced. If so, great! -- if not, I'm not sure that alone would prevent me from buying the car, but it would make me think twice. Fortunately, I was only about a mile from home when mine went, and I was able to coax it the rest of the way -- barely.

 

Bottom line, I agree a 2013 is your best bet (may the odds be in your favor) due to the HPFP mostly. Make sure the oil has been changed every 5-7k max. "Serviced at the dealer" means nothing as they only fix (read replace) when a code is scanned. They do absolutely no preventative maintenance or troubleshooting except change the engine oil at 15k/1 year whichever comes first (which is way less than ideal) or whatever the new interval is from corporate. Plastic thermostat, water tube and water pump should be replaced if not already, you don't want those leaking (you might not even know) or failing outright. Auto trans fluid should be at least drain/filled (~2 qts) every 10k miles. After 60k, playing catchup on that is risky. That's all you can really hope for besides everything already mentioned. The car IS fun to drive but if you aren't a wrencher then save a little in the piggy bank for whatever may break next.

Edit: verify the car has NEVER run low on oil. Very important for longevity. My alternator also went out recently, 62k FWIW.

Edit 2: Stay with 16" rims and below, the 17's are very harsh on any runflat tire and there is no spare. Or get regular tires and roadside assistance/goop can.

2012 S

 

My Mini has been vary reliable to 144k and counting. Even still on the original clutch. Keep an eye on the common areas mentioned above and, for God’s sake, get rid of the Kia.

 

First off, thank you to everyone for your input! I'm glad the community here is very open with their experiences. A glance over the swath of YouTube comments will let you believe the MINI is simultaneously the greatest and worst car ever made. So I trust the advice of this forum over that source any day!

Some things I'm pretty solid on right now: My "why" of getting a MINI is aesthetics. I really liked the car when it was introduced in the early 2000s but always had the "its impractical" thought in my mind. Now that I'm in my early 40s, I'm really looking to bite the bullet and get one. The 2nd generation seems to be the best mix of the original Mini's style/grit and the refinement of the 3rd generation. I've done lots of looking to make sure I get the N18 engine as well; that seems to be the way to go if looking at that vintage.

It seems that as long as I keep up with some preventative maintenance the vehicle should keep going fairly well; some out there have well into the hundreds of thousands of miles.

I'll keep you posted with how things turn out - I'm looking to buy by May/June, unless I find something sooner. Over the past year on Autotrader, I've seen about 5-6 cars come on and off the market that really fit what I'm looking for.

As always, thank you for all of your input!

jroode