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MOOG 513309 Front Wheel Bearing worked on 2008 R56 Cooper S
I installed MOOG 513309 front wheel bearing assemblies on my 08 Cooper S R56.
$100 each on Amazon. Didn't include the 4 x 13mm bolts which the manual recommends be changed.
$20 cheaper than anything other name brand bearings. Moog good me thinks.
Here are some side by sides of the original OEM units with 160k miles on them. One of them was starting to make some noise so i changed them both. They outlasted my damn motor.. sad.
I damaged both my outer CV joint boots while changing the wheel bearing assemblies...Im so annoyed. The driver's side boot is easy to damage because the angle of the cv joint into the steering knuckle is so tight that the 13mm socket barely fits and I ended up creating a tiny tear in the boot. So bloody annoying.
I have no good excuse for how I damaged the passenger side. That joint is longer and goes in pretty straight relative to the hub so there is more room for the 13mm socket.
I recommend loosening the strut pinch bolt and removing the entire hub and steering knuckle, so you dont have to try and squeeze the socket between the outer CV boot. I wish I had. Its one more step but its worth it not to risk damaging the CV boot.
Soooo, for those of you replacing wheel bearings...be careful!
DONT FORGET TO SLATHER GREASE (or anti-seize paste) on the SPLINES OF THE CV AXLE AND THE FACE THAT TOUCHES THE BEARING!!!!! This will prevent it from seizing in the bearing, and the latter, from clicking when you move from a dead stop.
What did your bearing sound like that made you think it needed replacing?
I've got a 2009 MCS with 160,000 miles on it. I have a sound coming from my right front that gets louder with speed and is a noticeable noise at 65mph. I feel like it might be the bearing, but would like to know how I can truly diagnose it. Is there a way to raise the vehicle and test it or will I just have to take it apart to know?
Thanks,
David
What did your bearing sound like that made you think it needed replacing?
I've got a 2009 MCS with 160,000 miles on it. I have a sound coming from my right front that gets louder with speed and is a noticeable noise at 65mph. I feel like it might be the bearing, but would like to know how I can truly diagnose it. Is there a way to raise the vehicle and test it or will I just have to take it apart to know?
Thanks,
David
Its tough to diagnose wheel bearings unless they are REALLY bad in which case you can put the car in the air and put your hands at 12 and 6 o'clock and on the tire/wheel and see if you can move the wheel. If it shakes back and forth the bearing is completely done.
BUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUT, bearings can make all sorts of noises as they start to fail. Sometimes they groan real loud when you come to slow stop or go down a hill. Sometimes they scream like a banshee at highway speed. In my case my 2008 has almost 160k miles as well and I was getting a speed dependent whirring noise. I wasnt sure if it was the stupid, awful, vulgar, POS, Continental run-flat tires which I hate with all my might () or the bearing(s). I do all my work myself so $200 is cheap for 2 new bearings so I figured Id give it a shot.
This I can tell you,the whirring noise is still there (tires) but the car is SO SO SO MUCH QUIETER at highway speeds now. My girl was impressed. One or both of those front bearings was screaming at highway speeds.
At 160k, I would change them if I was you. Im gonna change the rears as well since I have a new motor and new/used tranny so Im planning on keeping this car.
ALSO CHANGE YOUR VACUUM PUMP!!!! Its easy as hell and could save your motor.
This is how I knew my wheel bearings went, you listen for the growl and then move the wheel to the left and right. When the outside force pressing in on the wheel you turn it slides the wheel bearing back together and runs smooth(less noise) then put force that moves it apart and it starts to really growl. Watch those ABS sensor heads. I recommend in pairs as down the road you will have to do the other side anyway unless you are on a budget.
Glad the Moog worked for you we have heard stories on the upper strut mounts failing early with those.
This is how I knew my wheel bearings went, you listen for the growl and then move the wheel to the left and right. When the outside force pressing in on the wheel you turn it slides the wheel bearing back together and runs smooth(less noise) then put force that moves it apart and it starts to really growl. Watch those ABS sensor heads. I recommend in pairs as down the road you will have to do the other side anyway unless you are on a budget.
Glad the Moog worked for you we have heard stories on the upper strut mounts failing early with those.
You can also use a tool like Chassis Ears which is a remote microphone and speaker which you attach to the bearings and then drive and listen to which one is making noise but honestly its time consuming to set up and its an expensive tool. You're better off just changing them. 160k for front bearings is as much as you can ask. My damn engine didnt last that long.
Moog is a serious company. I trust them. Timken of Japan is also a great option for another $20 per bearing.
Cool, have not used chassis ears before but I have changed like 8 wheels bearings between 3 MINIs I owned. The rear ones seem to last pretty long. My fronts all went first. I found that the seal on the back side gets pretty rusty on the outside and then flares(bacons) a bit more to let water and salt in then over time the bearing goes. I had 1 rust so bad from ohio salt it ground into the ABS sensor and made it fail also. With almost 300K on my R52 i have almost seen it all.
Thanks for the responses. I'll be replacing them in the next couple of weeks. Thanks for the axle nut part number too.
David
David, if you can easily and cheaply order 8 new bolts, I recommend it. The instructions for installing the new bearings almost make it seem like the bolts are one-time torque-to-yield bolts, but I dont think they are. Nonetheless, it cant hurt as these are bolts you def dont want to fail.
BMW has a fascination with new hardware which is such a waste of money. 99% of the time its totally unnecessary. Japanese cars never have this same requirement and they are way better designed and built cars.
I WISH YOU MUCH LUCK getting the axles separated from the bearings after 160k. Use penetrant man, for days, before you start this job. Project Farm on Youtube found that Liquid Wrench from Home Depot etc was the most effective. Also, be prepared to have to purchase a 5 ton hydraulic axle puller. I created instructions on how to do this on this forum but I accidentally deleted some of the instructions. Starts at post 23" https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/how-to/210886-r56-suspension-front-wheel-bearing-replacement-diy.htm
Those axles are gonna fight you man. Be prepared. Have a large brass hammer as well. Be careful not to "mushroom" the end of the axle as you hit it to get it out of the bearing or you will need to file it down to get it to pass out of the wheel bearing and then the locking mechanism on the new wheel but wont work because the axle end wont have a shoulder. Hence you will need Loctite Red.
Cool, have not used chassis ears before but I have changed like 8 wheels bearings between 3 MINIs I owned. The rear ones seem to last pretty long. My fronts all went first. I found that the seal on the back side gets pretty rusty on the outside and then flares(bacons) a bit more to let water and salt in then over time the bearing goes. I had 1 rust so bad from ohio salt it ground into the ABS sensor and made it fail also. With almost 300K on my R52 i have almost seen it all.
Yes, iits a Gen 1 MINI NON supercharged and they are known to hold up. I knew a guys with near 600K : before engine problem. He passed away but was a very cool MINI owner.
) or the bearing(s). I do all my work myself so $200 is cheap for 2 new bearings so I figured Id give it a shot. 
