I have searched about 200 threads but can't seem to find a link to a step-by-step on how to replace the valve guide seals with the head installed. Anyone have a definitive process?

 

You probably won't see one because these heads are quite complicated to rebuild. You will need various special tools, the most important is a tool to remove the valvetronic springs. You also need a timing tool and of course a valve spring compressor. IT'S NOT A SIMPLE JOB. It can be done, but probably better to find a rebuilt head even thought the seals are cheap.

Just finished refreshing one off the car and there are a lot of parts to track and they need to go back in the same position (clearances).

 

Thanks for the warning however there are several here who imply they did not remove the head just to change the seals. I have seen plenty of videos getting down to the timing chain replacement, which I plan on doing at the same time, but no further.

Anyone able to explain the steps past the chain removal? Or is it a matter of unbolting the cam brackets equally so as not to bend/break the cam and keeping all the followers in order? I am thinking of using the hose-in-the-cylinder method to keep the valves up. And then afterward is there a risk that you can get the cams 180 out of phase when setting the timing with the timing tools? I have done plenty of Fords, Chevys, and old VW's but those weren't OHC's.

 

I didn't say that you need to remove the head...I had to replace the head gasket and grind the valves on this particular head.

I just had a look and the N14 is much simpler than the N12 head ...no valvetronic springs etc.

It should be pretty straight forward.
Install timing chain tool on flywheel, remove the chain tensioner and cam gears.
Release the cam caps in the order listed in most service manuals (just crack them loose at first). Remove the cam caps and camshaft.
You can now lift out the rockers and lifters(keep them in order).
Install your hose/pressure unit to keep the vales up (assuming they don't leak).
Remove valve springs with appropriate tool and replace seals.
Reinstall it all.

If N14 is like N12, there is no risk of 180 degree install...there is writing on the cam that needs to face up and the tool lobe on the DS only has 3 faces and the cam/chain tool can only be installed one way.
Do the timing chain service and your done.

 

Thanks. Is there any issue with the cam's HPFP or vacuum pump drive ends that would make the cams not want to come out? Also, if I do the hose in the cylinder trick you have to rotate the engine to compress the hose and hold the valve up. That is where I was worried about getting 180 out of phase. Or do you rotate it back to the alignment pin position, insert the pin and you are good to set cam time?

 

Leave the alignment pin in the flywheel. As soon as you remove the camshaft, all the valve will be closed. No need to spin the engine.

 

On the N12..NO..and no HPFP. But if it's an issue it should be easy enough to loosen then off and move them out of the way. Here is a video with a guy doing it with both still in place. .
Love the valve spring compressor he is using...wish I had one of those.
1...hope your not using just a hose...you need an extension tube for a compression tester at minimum...like the video.
2...once the cams are removed all the valves will be closed..no need to rotate the engine.

Hope that helps...spring keepers are tiny and a pita to reinstall

 

BTW here is an N12 head for comparison...way more fun!!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-Cooper...oAAOSwWB5btamz

 

The hose is to stuff into the cylinder and then rotate the engine till the piston holds the hose against the valves. I haven't liked the compressed air method since the valve could still fall into the cylinder if you break the seal or lose pressure. Anyone use the stuff-the-hose-into-the-cylinder method? Any trick to getting it back to true TDC and not 180 out or am I being a worry wart?

 

OK...do what you like..but safer to do as in the video. No need to turn over the engine at all.

Only way it will loose pressure is if you
1...only remove one cam at a time...valve could be open
2..poor valve seal to valve seat and in that case it would need the valves done anyway.
3...you turn the air off.

K...done with this post...enjoy your endeavor and new found skills!!

 

Wow. Glad I have the turbo.

 

No tricks. you need the locking tools to reinstall back and everything will fall in place nicely.

 

Thanks. Great to know. Do you use the compressed air method or stuff a hose/rope into the cylinders?

 

I would do the hose trick moving forward.

 

Just finished the valve stem seal job on the '07. I used a nylon rope stuffed into the cylinders and rotated the engine until the piston pushed the rope against the valves. I have the '09 next in line for the same valve guide seal/timing chain replacement. Only slightly harder than a timing chain replacement but no doubt will solve many oil burning issues.

FYI be careful when you get your seals. I had two suppliers send me valve stem seals for the W11 even though they said the seals were for the N14. They are NOT the same (base and valve stem diameters are smaller on the N14).

 

I found this old thread, and the end of the thread I post some videos that are helpful

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...c-job-diy.html