Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.

Valve Seal Replacement? Has anyone done this?

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Old Sep 4, 2009 | 10:32 AM
  #1  
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Valve Seal Replacement? Has anyone done this?

Has anyone changed the valve seals on their car? I know it isn't a simple job, but I was hoping to find out about how long it took some of you.

Also, does anyone know where I can get a valve seal kit and how much it costs? I saw one posted in the marketplace for $50, but I am not sure how much they cost direct from a vendor (cant find them).
 
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Old Sep 4, 2009 | 04:33 PM
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You mean the Valve Cover gasket?

Gasket alone can be found for about $15
VC Gasket Set (with seals for spark plug tubes) is about $25

Valve stem seals are another matter...
 
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Old Sep 4, 2009 | 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by MarkD
You mean the Valve Cover gasket?
I wish it was that simple :(

Originally Posted by MarkD

Valve stem seals are another matter...
That's what I thought...
 
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Old Sep 4, 2009 | 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by JCampos
I wish it was that simple :(



That's what I thought...
Ah... I see. Sorry.

You having a valve job done or just replacing the stem seals?
Stem seal kit runs around $45

I've never done a valve job on a Mini so I can't help with the tech details.
However, I would guess once the cover is off it wouldn't be bad at all. Just a guess though.
 
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Old Sep 4, 2009 | 05:37 PM
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I've never replaced the valve seals on any car... so this should be interesting haha. This may sound dumb, but do I need to pull the head?
 
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Old Sep 4, 2009 | 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by JCampos
I've never replaced the valve seals on any car... so this should be interesting haha. This may sound dumb, but do I need to pull the head?
No, I am pretty certain the seals can be replaced without removing valve just like almost every other engine, so no reason to remove the head.

I'd get a shop manual though
 
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Old Sep 4, 2009 | 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by JCampos
I've never replaced the valve seals on any car... so this should be interesting haha. This may sound dumb, but do I need to pull the head?
No, I am pretty certain the seals can be replaced without removing valve just like almost every other engine, so no reason to remove the head.

I'd get a shop manual

I just read your other thread.
Do you have water in the oil?

Sounds like a head gasket, at least based on a quick scan of the other thread.
 
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Old Sep 4, 2009 | 08:45 PM
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I don't think there is water in the oil, but I am not sure.

I think that the oil is overfilled right now, and I know for certain that oil is getting into cylinder #1.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2009 | 05:42 AM
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check your oil and see if it looks milky in color. Or brownish.

regarding the stem seals, I was a bit ditracted by my kids last night. You would have to remove the head to get the valve keeper off in order to get the stem seal on.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2009 | 09:03 AM
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I took off the little cover where you dump and it looks like there is some milky goop that was stuck to the underside of it (don't exactly know how it would get up there though).

So basically if the oil looks milky, water is getting in? If water is getting in, it is a head gasket?

Thanks!
 
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Old Sep 5, 2009 | 09:05 AM
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mini has a valve compressor that does not require head removal . i've tried generic type but jaw angle was wrong . they do exist though . and if you dont have compressed air to keep the valve up you can simply put that cyl. on tdc of compression stroke and fill cyl. with chord or twine . gotta fill it . the valves wont fall cause the twine will hold them up .
 
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Old Sep 5, 2009 | 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by herbie hind
mini has a valve compressor that does not require head removal . i've tried generic type but jaw angle was wrong . they do exist though . and if you dont have compressed air to keep the valve up you can simply put that cyl. on tdc of compression stroke and fill cyl. with chord or twine . gotta fill it . the valves wont fall cause the twine will hold them up .
genious! Now let's just hope its not a head gasket
 
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Old Sep 5, 2009 | 11:15 AM
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do the basic compression test!! DRY and then WET!! it will expose the bad valve or head gasket or Rings.. and is an easy test!!

The seals are pressed on to the upper part of the valve guide.. they are hard to remove ( using a vales seal removal tool) and they need to be pressed back over the valve guide!! the work is straight forward AFTER you remove the spring.. But befor I went that way , I would run the compression tests to make sure.... bummer spending the weekend doing seals.. to find out it IS a gasket or something else..yes??

Just me...............................

Thumper
 
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Old Sep 5, 2009 | 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by JCampos
I've never replaced the valve seals on any car... so this should be interesting haha. This may sound dumb, but do I need to pull the head?
if you have water in the oil (sounds like you do) it is very likely the head gskt.

Especially since you said you are getting oil in #1 cylinder.
There is a breach.

Sorry...

a leakdown test will better confirm the source and location of the leak. Most shops can do this.
I am in the East Bay area (Brentwood Area), if you want, I can do it
 
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Old Sep 5, 2009 | 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by JCampos
genious! Now let's just hope its not a head gasket
sorry didnt see you had milk .how far do you drive ? does car come up to normal temp usually .? see if you rarely drive and not far; you can get some milk under the filler . but if you come up to normal temp on average it'll cook off the moisture in crankcase . so if you do drive hot then yeah you gotta do tests . bummer .
 
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Old Sep 7, 2009 | 09:52 AM
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A friend and I are going to do the tests tomorrow. I will let you all know the results... thanks for all the help!!!
 
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Old Sep 12, 2009 | 09:47 AM
  #17  
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Well... compression test and leakdown test results showed that nothing was wrong with the internals... We did a full oil change and the oil was black, but no milkiness. We talked to a guy next door who runs a BMW shop and his opinion was that it was a crankcase ventilation issue. I found that the tube that connects my crankcase to the intake tube had come out... I guess the lack of vacuum pressure in the crankcase just caused the oil to condense in cylinder one once the engine was cooled. Interesting how such a small little thing can wreak havoc on a motor.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2009 | 10:57 AM
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the gray one before the s/c? wow ; you couldnt hear the leak? or do you mean on passenger side tube to throttle body for recirculating overpressure gases .?
 
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Old Sep 13, 2009 | 09:11 AM
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Its the one on the driver's side. Connects the crankcase to the tube leading from the intake to the throttle body.
 
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Old Sep 2, 2020 | 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by herbie hind
mini has a valve compressor that does not require head removal . i've tried generic type but jaw angle was wrong . they do exist though . and if you dont have compressed air to keep the valve up you can simply put that cyl. on tdc of compression stroke and fill cyl. with chord or twine . gotta fill it . the valves wont fall cause the twine will hold them up .
do the cams have to be removed for valve seal replacement?
 
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Old Sep 2, 2020 | 06:35 PM
  #21  
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Yes. Both cams need to be removed. Been there done that. Be careful to plug ALLLLLLLL the holes in the head (there are lots) with paper towels in case the keepers go flying. Ask me how I know.
 
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