Hello all-- been a lurker for a while and been looking to get a Gen1 or late year Gen2 S for a while. I have found a 2012 Cooper S with 47k and it has a brand new engine replaced with a 1 year warranty. Would you take this as a good sign, in that it likely has fixes on known issues, or should I steer clear due to the first failure? I haven't found out why it failed in the first place, but the care was well maintained and looks great. The seller is asking about 10k, but I suspect I can get him down to 9k-ish. It looks like the N18 engine from the pictures.

Also, I asked him about the clutch and he said it was measured at 2mm when they swapped out the engine. I can't find any info online on what this means with wear percentage-- anybody can chime in? I don't really want to buy the car and then end up with a 2k + clutch job right off the bat.

I am also worried about the turbo but I did see that there appears to be a 10 year/120,000 mile warranty on these now from MINI USA. Does this warranty actual exist and has anybody cashed in on it?

Thanks!!

-J

 

Turns out is was a thermal sensor that failed and led to the failure. I haven't come across this in the forums. Still wondering about the 2mm with the clutch...

 

No expert, but I wouldn't touch it. I am assuming MINI didn't do the engine replacement.

2mm sounds like it is near done, again no expert but from what I read at newtis.info when it's down to 1mm it is done.

 

 

 

I figured this applied - thats why I assumed it wasn't a MINI repair.
"MINI Value Service available only at participating MINI Dealers. All work is carried out by MINI trained technicians using MINI Original Parts, which come with a two-year unlimited mileage limited warranty. Warranty repairs do not constitute an extension of the original limited warranty period for the vehicle or a part thereof. This offer is valid for most MINI models. Offers not valid on John Cooper Works models. Additional costs may apply. Additional fees may apply. Please see your authorized MINI Dealer for details."

 

 

Not sure what the significance is of a "N18" motor. If the engine was replaced at a Mini dealer almost certainly the correct engine for the specific model year of car would be used. A dealer can run afoul of all kinds of federal and state (especially in CA emissions laws by installing an older model engine in a newer car or vice versa.

Knowing the engine was installed by a Mini dealer and assuming it has a 2 year warranty with some miles and this warranty has some time and miles left before it expires the car might be a good buy assuming you can get it for a reasonable price.

Kind of surprised the engine was recently replaced yet the clutch appears to be shot. Usually if the engine is out that is the time to refresh the clutch.

Be sure you give the car a thorough used car check out.

Have the seller take you on a 15 mile test ride during which he can demo the car as you intend to use it, then back at the starting place you switch seats and drive the car over the same route and the same way.

Afterwards verify every system works. Ideally after all this if you still like the car and believe you can get it for a reasonable price arrange to have the car checked over by a tech, IOWs get a pre purchase inspection. Among other things this gets the car in the air so a check can be made for any leak sign. At the same time you can get the tech's opinion on the clutch and if he believes it is due to be replaced a quote on the cost.

 

 

There likely is other repairs that will be needed to make it perform up to your xpectations. So 9K +2K clutch Plus ?K for the other stuff . . . how does that stack up to other for sale MINIs of same vintage in your area? Unless you are going to keep it for 10 years, the new engine doesn't trump all other factors.

 

That's a good point. There is a 2015 Cooper S I am looking at for 11k that has 47k miles and had the clutch replaced at 40k. With the clutch on the 2012, that would about even out.

The only issue is I think the new generation looks the worst out of 3 generations...

 

Am surprised the clutch wasn't replaced when the engine was swapped out. 48k mile, might need replacing depending on how it was driven. We have a 2012, bought new, still going strong at 70k miles.

 

I just checked the Bentley Manual and found on page 210-8 "Replace disc if friction material measures 1mm (0.04 in) or less above rivet head on transmission side."
I would be suspicious for a few reasons.
-Clutch not replaced when engine was, why mate a new engine with a used clutch, you're already there.
-Engine failed with less than 8k miles per year.
-You mentioned "Turns out is was a thermal sensor that failed and led to the failure."
That's coolant/cooling or oil.

I suspect that this car was either driven intentionally to hard, driven by someone riding the clutch, and/or someone that does not regularly check coolant/oil levels and that cooling fans are working.
Keeping that in mind, who knows what the internals of the transmission are.

 

Thanks all-- decided against the car. I agree, too suspicious for them not to do the clutch when having the engine out. Dealer must of suggested changing it, and suspect the owner said no, knowing he was going to do a quick sale.

 

I was lurking and hunting an reading about which model to buy and this is my opinion only but I'm biased because its what I have now. I suggest you wait for a 2nd Generation 2013 R56 JCW (not an S).
Regular mini's seems to be for high mileage wanters, and the S model will have you wanting to mod things eventually for it to simulate a JCW. Why I'm suggesting to hold our for the JCW model?
1) has N18 engine with all the updates
2) Internals are stronger and can handle higher boost, should you want a tune
3) better brakes
4) better suspension
5) comes with nicer sounding exhaust
All this comes with it, and to me is cheaper to have already this stuff on the car, than trying to mod it later to upgrade and get it.
My buddy just bought a 2012 S and I let him drive my JCW and now he is spending like crazy trying to obtain the same mods/upgrades and wishes he hadn't pulled the trigger on the S.
I guess after seeing his regret first hand, for me it confirmed what I'm getting at. I've learned to build my knowledge up on finding the best year and model before I pull the trigger.
And if one thing is off, no deal. But you did right passing on this one!

 

I would wait for A 2013 JCW, however this is a bit out of my budget range. I don't see myself finding one for under 13-14k in my area (Bay Area). There are a bunch of 2011-2012 JCWs, however I want to stay away from the N14. I'm actually looking a 2013 S with 23k miles for 9k today, and this is a bit of a steal really. I am also looking at a pristine 2006 S with the pulley upgrade, intake, exhaust and the Aero Kit for 7k with 72k miles-- I don't know why but I love the face lift Gen1 R53s and the supercharger sound.

 

The significance of the N18 over the N14 is the N18 has been known to be more reliable; the N18 replaced the N14. As for getting the correct engine for the car year, the 2012 was the transition between these two engines so the beginning part of the year had the N14 and the end (I think Sept onward) had the N18. Other than that, I think the majority of the coupling parts (trans, turbo, intercooler and most of the intake, etc) match up to both engines. Looks like he's looking elsewhere, but I just wanted to clarify this in case OP didn't know. Good luck looking!

 

2mm of disc thickness may be a lot of life left.

No Mini experience, but with my 2003 Porsche Turbo 996 at around 115K miles I had the transmission out to replace a leaking rear main seal. At this time I checked the clutch disc for wear by measuring the depth from the disc surface to the rivet head and measured 1.7mm. This was the factory new measurement. The replacement limit was 0.3mm. The usable disc thickness was just 1.4mm. With a reading of 1.7mm thus no measurable wear I had the tech reuse all the "old" clutch hardware although he did advise replacing some actuator hardware -- a couple of needle bearings and bearing seals -- which I agreed to. Drove another nearly 50K miles and the clutch was fine. 'course I didn't abuse the clutch. Managed to get 317K miles from my 2002 Boxster's clutch.

For price I recommend visiting www.kbb.com and www.nada.com and plugging in the car's details and seeing what the wholesale/trade in numbers are. The seller probably has only about the wholesale/trade in value in the car so you want to start down around the wholesale/trade in value.

You also adjust your offer and how much you would be willing to pay for the car based on what your check out of the car finds needs attention. Things like say tires, brakes, or if one or more fluid or filter services due. But be sure you put a limit on how high you will go as you will of course almost certainly have to up your offer because your initial offer will be rejected.

What I do is up my offer by say $250. Then this is rejected and after some time I'll bump my offer but by just $125. This signals to the seller I'm not going to be walked up to his price $250 at a time.

 

Thanks RockC, I ended up going with a mint 2006 cooper s with the aero kit, pulley upgrade, intake, exhaust etc. I just love the ride of the R53s. I'll post up some pics something this weekend.

 

Congrats. You're making me regret selling the R53 three years ago. Would love some pictures.

 

I'll upload some pics tomorrow

 

Here she is: 2006 Cooper S, 72k miles, 17% reduction pulley, CAI, one ball mod (previous owner), custom arm rest, viper alarm. I will be completing out the build with some suspension upgrade, cat-back exhaust, then a tune with 380cc injectors.



I think I'm gonna keep the plates

 

Congrats. R53's are a blast.

 

Congrats that is a great looking R53 and even better it has the aero bumper. Hope we can help with parts to finish out the build.