Hi all,

I've looked through countless R56 issues threads and it seems many of you participators fail to provide WHICH R56 you drive - which is very important.
So, I'd like to create a summary thread where people actually specify if they're driving the MCS or the MC non-S. You can also refer to which engine you have:

N12 (N12B16) Non Turbo:
2007-2010 R56 and R57 Cooper
2008-2010 R55 Clubman

N14 (N14B16) Turbo
2007-2010 R56S and R57S Cooper S
2008-2010 R55S Clubman S =

N16 (N16B16) Non Turbo
2010+ R56
Basically all the 2010+ non-S models

N18 (N18B16) Turbo
2011+ R56 Cooper S
Basically all S models


I think a few issues that affect ALL minis:

- Terrible throttle lag. Solution involves tuning because drive by wire.

- Poor button build quality - no real solution. Press your passenger seat heater button harder. The last button for your BMW infotainment system on the right side for going back will always be sticky.

- Poor AUX input quality - looks like quite a few people suffer from the aux cable coming loose. How annoying.

- Hard to squeeze door handles - what dumbshit german/english engineer decided to make a squeezy trigger instead of using the goddamn handle. My poor mom with wrist surgery has a hard time opening the mini because her grip strength isn't quite there.


I'm not aware of issues specifically affect the N16, but that's what we have From what I hear, it seems to only be the water pump, which is nice.

I know the N14 suffers from a boatload of issues - for those affected, feel free to update this thread! I think it's only fair that people who wish to be mini owners know what they're getting into.

I've owned a 2009 BMW 135i which would've been a massive pain in the *** for anyone who doesn't like working on their car. I also have a 2004 Honda S2000 now, which has been relatively trouble free. Parents own a 2008 Lexus RX350 which is also super reliable. Also had a 2002 Honda Civic - the batch of Hondas notoriously affected by a dead automatic transmission by 130-150k miles or 220k+ km. Lastly, I have a 2002 Toyota Avalon which has been a supremely reliable car but I hear even that car suffers from sludge build up which might claim its life eventually... :(

Anyways, speak up for your fellow owners and soon-to-be owners!

 

First post and you are getting on our collective cases about not providing information correctly?

My info. . .

 

Hey! I don't think my post count should reflect what I've researched and how much time I've spent trying to understand the little things about these cars. I can provide a few links to prove what I'm saying. It's just a bunch of forum posters seem to say things like,
"I have a 2012 R56 and I have hpfp issues, timing chain issues, etc", which clearly refers to the MCS but the lack of clarification makes it difficult for everyone to understand.

 

Here goes:

The N14 R56 is a giant time bomb, money pit. Sure maybe you can find one that hasn't puked yet but that doesn't change the reputation of it being a horrible engine platform that has cost many an owner a great deal of money.

Funny thing though, I never noticed on my N14 R56 JCW that the handles were stiff or the buttons lousy. Too busy replacing all the failures under the hood. ��

 

Purchased my 'justa-cooper' (see sig) April 2008 and it's been completely trouble free.

I agree on door opening issue, helps to have fingers as far towards the rear as possible. If I had a regular passenger with the problem, I would rig a loop of soft cord over the handle so a tug would unlatch and open the door in one motion.

My first Aux plug also had the problem (XM Radio), but second (straight instead of an 'angle') solved it and has never 'worked' loose ever.

There is a (hidden) drain fitting at forward end of floor tunnel into AC that I caused to leak by threading wires from fuse box over into GPS to left of tach. Moisture accumulated under floor carpet/padding could cause expensive problems with electronics down there.

The soft rubber covering the rear hatch release button went rotten even though car has always had indoor storage (garage or hangar) so must have been from exhaust. There are a couple plastic pieces to save when replacing, that work the micro-switch in there.

Each cupholder has one screw in the bottom that needs to be reinstalled with a little neoprene washer and sealant. Coffee leaking around that screw is death for your transmission's electronic control beneath the console ($2,000+ repair).

 

I had a 2008 MCS Hatch with the N14 engine. Bought it used at 38k miles, and sold it 2 years later with 78k miles. Overall it was a very reliable car, no major problems that left me stranded ever. Let me list the biggest issues it had:

- Sunroof drain tube got disconnected and left a huge amount of water in the passenger footwell. Mold grew and I got mold allergies from it for a couple weeks, didn't help that it was summer in St. Louis.

- Timing Chain tensioner replaced at 64k miles, MINI inspection found it leaking so they replaced it as preventive maintenace

- Temp sensor was leaking coolant and replaced at 64k miles, from same inspection.

- Oil cooler gasket leaking at 74.7k miles, found at MINI inspection (thank goodness MINI of Madison offered free spring/fall inspections). Instead of paying $1200 to replace at dealer, I purchased the turbo oil line super kit from Detroit Tuned, intercooler and DP for $1200 and did labor myself.

- Right hand e brake cable found seizing, $430 repair but I declined since the ebrake was working fine

- I did notice the handle getting sticky/unreliable especially in the cold Wisconsin winters. Sometimes I'd unlock the door using comfort access and then squeeze the handle, but the door wouldn't open and the handle then behaved like it had already opened (meaning I couldn't open it again). Locking then unlocking usually fixed it.

 

I honestly feel like the N14 isnt that bad if you keep up with maintenance and service.

Have 2008 MCS - 6 speed (103K Miles). I did the Detroit Tuned oil lines and the filter housing/oil cooler gaskets in about 4 hours at home. Also did the timing chain tensioner in 30 minutes. This fixed some small leaks and got rid of Death Rattle.

Just have some small items I need to bring to dealer for;

1) Car keeps saying exterior light is out even though none are
2) Passenger window needs updated software for sensitivity setting (goes up and back down)


ohhh yeah I also needed to do front wheel bearings at around 100K but again this was so simple and easy to do at home.

 

I have a 2013 MCS with the N18 engine and all of the factory JCW optional upgrades. Somewhere in its life a coolant hose was not attached properly and it rubbed against the transmission housing. Because the car has no coolant level sensor or a coolant temperature gauge, I didn't know the engine was overheating until it went into limp mode and shortly thereafter died. Cooked the engine with no warning. Luckily the car was still under factory warranty for 2 more weeks. It got a brand new short block and a fair bit of electronics which were melted, replaced at 24.5k miles. Had the coolant hose been installed correctly there would have never been a problem.

Have owned the car for 6 months now and put 10k miles on it. Been very happy with the Mini's reliability, it is a big improvement over the 2002 BMW M5 it replaced.

My car doesn't seem to have any of the problems you suggested like sticking buttons or hard to use door handles. The trunk button is a bear to use in the snow, have to dig it out.