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R56 2003 R53 vs 2011 R56 mini cooper s

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Old Mar 15, 2017 | 04:31 PM
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2003 R53 vs 2011 R56 mini cooper s

I'm planning to buy one of those from private seller. I don't know which one I have to choose. 2011 mini cooper s is $500 expensive than R53.
03 R53 with 82k well maintained with some mods and 2011 R56 mini cooper s with stock with 92k mileage. those two cars looks excellent shape. those two cars are all manual transmission. Which one would you recommend buying?
 
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Old Mar 15, 2017 | 05:05 PM
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I love my 2011. I did have to put a fair amount of parts into it to get everything up to speck but it drives nice. My high pressure fuel pump failed but was replaced free of charge by dealer even way way out of warentee and not original owner. I did a bunch of work myself so all told I have about 1500 sunk in after purchase cost. (new brakes, new belt, led headlights, new struts, new spark plugs, new air filters and oil, new battery). The belt was a pain in the ***.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2017 | 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Wanderlustsrt
I love my 2011. I did have to put a fair amount of parts into it to get everything up to speck but it drives nice. My high pressure fuel pump failed but was replaced free of charge by dealer even way way out of warentee and not original owner. I did a bunch of work myself so all told I have about 1500 sunk in after purchase cost. (new brakes, new belt, led headlights, new struts, new spark plugs, new air filters and oil, new battery). The belt was a pain in the ***.
what is your current mileage? and what was the mileage when you purchase it?
 
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Old Mar 15, 2017 | 05:41 PM
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Sounds like the r53 may be overpriced, or the r56 is really cheap. The price difference should be more than $500 between these two.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2017 | 06:03 PM
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Agree with bavmotors, the prices seem strange.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2017 | 08:23 PM
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is model 2011-2013 more reliable than 2007-2010 and R53 models?
does it still have problem with common problem such as timing chain or water pump?
I know the price is crazy. R56 Seller said that he needs money quickly and I offered price $1000 lower than original price he posted on and he accepted if I take it right away.
I worried that over 90k miles starts making problem or not..
 
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Old Mar 15, 2017 | 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by yyj3869
is model 2011-2013 more reliable than 2007-2010 and R53 models?
does it still have problem with common problem such as timing chain or water pump?
I know the price is crazy. R56 Seller said that he needs money quickly and I offered price $1000 lower than original price he posted on and he accepted if I take it right away.
I worried that over 90k miles starts making problem or not..
Sounds like you're being pressured to buy the 2011. If the 2003 is overpriced, I'd forget both of them. 2011 N14 is prone to troubles. If you can get evidence that major failure parts have already been replaced --- maybe worthwhile, but I'd still hold out for a later model with the N18 engine.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2017 | 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by oldbrokenwind
Sounds like you're being pressured to buy the 2011. If the 2003 is overpriced, I'd forget both of them. 2011 N14 is prone to troubles. If you can get evidence that major failure parts have already been replaced --- maybe worthwhile, but I'd still hold out for a later model with the N18 engine.
i think 2011 model has N18 engine? only 2007-2010 models have n14 right?
 
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Old Mar 15, 2017 | 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by yyj3869
i think 2011 model has N18 engine? only 2007-2010 models have n14 right?
I don't know when the N18 was introduced. I thought it was mid 2011, or maybe just one of the models. But this is something you should be sure about before buying! Either way, you should have access to all repair history, on any car you buy. Remember, there's not much recourse when buying from a private party. Consider what wanderlust put into his 2011 --- will you need to do the same?
 
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Old Mar 16, 2017 | 06:35 AM
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Originally Posted by yyj3869
what is your current mileage? and what was the mileage when you purchase it?
Purchased with 83500 miles give or take 100. Current 89k, I have an N18. I hear even worse things about N14. Note the only unplanned maintenance was the fuel pump. I am considering getting my intake valves walnut blasted which runs about $350.

Common issues to this platform: fuel pump, valve cover leaks, timing chain issues.
 

Last edited by Wanderlustsrt; Mar 16, 2017 at 06:41 AM.
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Old Mar 16, 2017 | 09:44 PM
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My 2/2011 production MCS has the N18. (I do believe that the JCW models used the N14 until 2013.) Bought used from a local BMW dealer in 2014 with 21k miles. Under remaining factory warranty, had the belt-driven main water pump, pulley and friction wheel replaced, as well as the HPFP, the auxillary electric water pump, and a leaking oil pressure solenoid, and it's wiring harness, as oil had wicked up that harness. Plus some aesthetic pieces, like the door sill plates and the steering wheel buttons for radio and cruise control, due to discoloring. Under my aftermarket Hendricks warranty bought at purchase, I had all 4 coil packs replaced, and a couple other small items that I cannot recall right now. I am at 72k now, no further issues. Still on the original timing chain assembly and tensioner, as far as I know. Every now and then, under certain cold-start temps (like 50-70 ambient degrees or so), I have a bit of fluctuating idle and small stumbles. Very similar to when the original HPFP went out, but has not worsened rapidly, as the first HPFP did when it failed. Got a letter in the mail recently from MINI USA extending the warranty on my HPFP to 10 years/120k miles from original in-service date. Called my service advisor at MINI of Escondido, he said that extension will cover as many HPFP's as I need within the extended warranty period. My Hendricks warranty expires at 81k, and I do plan on extending it just before that point. I do meticulously maintain my MINI, checking the engine oil and coolant levels very often, not finding any excessive use of either. I change my Mobil1 0w40 oil, including a genuine MINI oil filter, every 5k miles. I DO drive my MINI very "spiritedly". Have never had my intake valves walnut blasted, but I do intend to take my intake off soon and have a peek in there. Just relating my experience. YMMV. Motoring On.....
 

Last edited by renchjeep; Mar 16, 2017 at 09:54 PM.
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Old Mar 17, 2017 | 04:45 AM
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I've owned a couple r56's and a couple r53's

is this a 2nd car? I prefer daily driving the r56 if I had to but the r53 is more fun and have been much more reliable and cheaper to run for me
 
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Old Mar 17, 2017 | 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by mega72
I've owned a couple r56's and a couple r53's

is this a 2nd car? I prefer daily driving the r56 if I had to but the r53 is more fun and have been much more reliable and cheaper to run for me
yes it is a 2nd car but i will be driving as a daily drive for commute 20 miles or more a day. I've owned r56 and r52 like you. currently sold r52, it was so fun to drive but my back hurt so bad when i drove over 20 miles
 
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Old Mar 17, 2017 | 07:53 AM
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20 min is not bad I drive an hour to work it got old after a year.

r56 is a smoother ride, but replace the timing chain tensioner every 45k miles or so, consider it PMCS/part of owning an r56. And if it has a cam driven pump do the mod to remove that stupid thing right away those are ticking time bombs
 
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Old Mar 18, 2017 | 12:22 PM
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A 2011 S has the N18 motor. My build date 10/26/2010 is an N18. Far more reliable than 2007-2010 as it does not eat timing chains, and little carbon cleaning intakes etc. Still has HPFP (that is now warranted 10 years 8x,000 miles cant recall), plastic thermostat and waterpump (though new replacment one is metal) and crossover tube between them that leak.

The 2011 is the first year of the facelifted GenII. Mine is 2011 and seems to be just fine. Not sure what changed in 2012-2014 other then metal waterpump, and different head,HPFP, HPFP controller in March 2012.

I like my 2011 R55 a lot.
 
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