R56 Saving your R56
#1
Saving your R56
Saving your R56 ****** I keep meaning to start this and haven't but I'm just going to start and update as I can********
1......... The Vacuum Pump Camshaft Failure. Located on the right side of the cylinder head. These units are known to fail and will break the camshaft and crash the valves, again this is a known fault. So as a recommendation on the cautious side I would just replace these every 60,000 miles or do the pump delete/switch to an electric pump. Its a simple job and the pump is not that expensive.
My theory is that the seal on these leak and when it gets bad enough you start the engine with too little oil inside the pump causing wear, this is I think/guess worst in cases where the car is driven less frequently. below is a picture of the pump. It can be difficult to gauge the severity of the leak but you will find oil running out from the seam towards the bottom of the pump it then runs along the edge of the block and down the transmission.
2............... Oil in the wrong places. There are two main points here the turbo and the crank case breather system (valve cover). Both will run oil through the intake into the engine. So the easy one first TURBO's have a lifespan they will continue to work for a relatively long time but once the seals start to go they spray oil into the intake and or the exhaust. Its best not to wait for the engine to start smoking before you get a rebuild, its a bit hard to say when to replace if you track or X you should get to it every couple of seasons. If you drive hard maybe 75,000 certainly at around 100,000 miles everyone should just get it done. To Be Continued
1......... The Vacuum Pump Camshaft Failure. Located on the right side of the cylinder head. These units are known to fail and will break the camshaft and crash the valves, again this is a known fault. So as a recommendation on the cautious side I would just replace these every 60,000 miles or do the pump delete/switch to an electric pump. Its a simple job and the pump is not that expensive.
My theory is that the seal on these leak and when it gets bad enough you start the engine with too little oil inside the pump causing wear, this is I think/guess worst in cases where the car is driven less frequently. below is a picture of the pump. It can be difficult to gauge the severity of the leak but you will find oil running out from the seam towards the bottom of the pump it then runs along the edge of the block and down the transmission.
2............... Oil in the wrong places. There are two main points here the turbo and the crank case breather system (valve cover). Both will run oil through the intake into the engine. So the easy one first TURBO's have a lifespan they will continue to work for a relatively long time but once the seals start to go they spray oil into the intake and or the exhaust. Its best not to wait for the engine to start smoking before you get a rebuild, its a bit hard to say when to replace if you track or X you should get to it every couple of seasons. If you drive hard maybe 75,000 certainly at around 100,000 miles everyone should just get it done. To Be Continued
Last edited by Euler-Spiral; 11-07-2016 at 06:25 AM.
#2
Don't forget to check the obvious failure of mechanical engineering that is the timing chain system, every 12,000 miles or so. Non-S models don't have to worry about this as much.
Checking Oil is obviously important, too. My Justa goes through close to a quart every 2-5k, and people don't think that these burn oil as much as they do, but this thing is just as bad as my 1974 VW Super Beetle in that regard. Replacing the shitty dipstick the car comes with is also a plus.
If you're going to be doing regular service to your car, DO buy an aftermarket Oil Cooler, and an Oil Catch Can. These cars have been noted to benefit from both. The catch can needs to be checked up on every once in a while.
Checking Oil is obviously important, too. My Justa goes through close to a quart every 2-5k, and people don't think that these burn oil as much as they do, but this thing is just as bad as my 1974 VW Super Beetle in that regard. Replacing the shitty dipstick the car comes with is also a plus.
If you're going to be doing regular service to your car, DO buy an aftermarket Oil Cooler, and an Oil Catch Can. These cars have been noted to benefit from both. The catch can needs to be checked up on every once in a while.
#5
Don't forget to check the obvious failure of mechanical engineering that is the timing chain system, every 12,000 miles or so. Non-S models don't have to worry about this as much.
Checking Oil is obviously important, too. My Justa goes through close to a quart every 2-5k, and people don't think that these burn oil as much as they do, but this thing is just as bad as my 1974 VW Super Beetle in that regard. Replacing the shitty dipstick the car comes with is also a plus.
If you're going to be doing regular service to your car, DO buy an aftermarket Oil Cooler, and an Oil Catch Can. These cars have been noted to benefit from both. The catch can needs to be checked up on every once in a while.
Checking Oil is obviously important, too. My Justa goes through close to a quart every 2-5k, and people don't think that these burn oil as much as they do, but this thing is just as bad as my 1974 VW Super Beetle in that regard. Replacing the shitty dipstick the car comes with is also a plus.
If you're going to be doing regular service to your car, DO buy an aftermarket Oil Cooler, and an Oil Catch Can. These cars have been noted to benefit from both. The catch can needs to be checked up on every once in a while.
Love my 2010 non-s and want to keep it a long time.
I do go thru oil also.
#7
Oil coolers come in many shapes and sizes, and if you're not doing much hard driving in hot temperatures, I can't imagine you'd need it.
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#8
Oil coolers come in many shapes and sizes, and if you're not doing much hard driving in hot temperatures, I can't imagine you'd need it. Google can show you plenty of these.
#9
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