Hey guys, cars throwing a p28aa, I'm pretty sure it's the bov because I cleared the code and drove it again and there is no bov sound when I let off. Boost was up to the normal level (18psi with tune). This was before the half full engine light came on. What are the things I need to do to replace this? Just get a oem replacement and then get an aftermarket diverter valve? Also is it safe to daily the car until it's fixed?

Thanks guys!!

 

Are you runing a stock valve now?

 

Yes sir...

 

"BOV" is just another name for the diverter valve. From what I've read on these threads, most people just upgrade with an aftermarket DV spring. If you replace the DV to clear the cel, you should consider upgrading the spring too.

A faulty DV shouldn't cause any harm to a DD, maybe lower performance (boost) but nothing else --- (says the guy with an external BOV --- hasn't run internal for over 5 years).

 

Okay I was worried about not being able to daily it but I assume it would be as though there is a boost leak. I also hear that on top of the spring, the diaphragms are weak. So I should replace my bov and look at going aftermarket with mine to hold the tune I have.

 

BOV and Dv are two different thing's
BOV "blow off vavle" blow's off into atmosphere
DV "recirculation valve or diverter valve" dumb's it back into the system!

check forge out! they sale both! just make sure you get a higher psi spring for what ever one you get!
http://www.forgemotorsport.com/search?q=mini
I'am runing the BOV and never had a problem with it. but ive been thinking about getting the DV ! am runing 25 psi and it blow's off ever time you let off the fuel
but 18psi on a stock plastic valve not the best idea.

 

Yeah, looks like I might have to go with the stock dv and the dv adapter from forge... The bov is a little too expensive being as college classes are starting up again soon

 

yeah i can understand not having money! but its going to be cheaper then replacing your turbo or motor! when you blow that plastic valve apart!

 

That's very true. I'm going to baby her right now. I have a new dv with the upgraded spring and a forge dv ordered so hopefully that does the trick

 

You're correct but just playing with words --- it's the same piece of equipment, just plumbed differently. In the case of the OEM DV, it's built in and can't be plumbed as a BOV without serious changes, which usually aren't worth the effort. The OP referred to it as a BOV (post #1) and continued to talk about it as OEM --- had to be referring to the DV built into the turbo.

My post was an attempt to let him know his sentence "Just get a oem replacement and then get an aftermarket diverter valve?" didn't make a whole lot of sense!

My external BOV is plumbed as a DV (DV / BOV choice is optional) and it's adjustable so it only actuates at about a 10psi differential --- seldom happens. I read somewhere that DV plumbing (closed circuit) gives better throttle response than BOV plumbing (open circuit), that's why I connected it that way. Something to do with ECU recognizing an air loss.

 

A blow off valve is more of a primitive method of controlling the turbo! from boost leave's to spool.. Blow valve or valve's regulates what's in the charge system, so your not over charging the system. the only job the Blow off valve has, is to regulate psi in charge system. ever thing else is controlled by manual boost controller & the wast-gate. all done by vac- from the turbo/throttle.. very very simple turbo set up!

so just like you was hitting on with the closed circuit set up. they are runing 3-5 different senors that are controlling fuel leave's boost leave's ext. dump that air lose accurate sensor reading to map & maf & boost sensor. there's a lot more going on with it but in a nut shell kind of deal.. when all working togather run's great. get one little crack or somthing in the system run's like ****/
at the end of the day the BOV is all about the sound ,

 

OP, unplug and replug it for now. May solve the issue. I went with the WMW replacement diverter valve and it works fine at 19PSI peak.

 

I unplugged it and plugged it back in yesterday... Didn't help. When I first start it and let it warm up and get into boost it'll make the blow off sound but it's not how it should sound. I'm thinking the diaphragm is ripped or the spring is shot. I ordered a oem replacement with the upgraded spring and forge dv adapter. Will that solve the issue?

 

Maybe a little overboard but it should

 

all the forge adapter does is give me the sound! with the ability of using the stock DV

 

I do recommend the FORGE BOV.... the actual bov though. when it slaps closed, it's on the boost instantly. definitely a change for the better

 

I have a GFB on hand to replace the stock unit. Maybe OP can research this.

http://www.gfb.com.au/products/blow-...ication-detail

 

Well, it has been over two months from OP's last post but others may be interested to know that MINI released a new diverter valve that no longer uses a crummy diaphragm.
Tigger did a detailed look at it here and it's an OEM part. Supposedly more robust than the others.

That said, I run the FORGE recirc valve and it works well for me.

 

It's good to know that they are fixing the bov issue, what I did was order the stock one and get the forge dv, my theory behind doing this was the spacing with the forge DV would ease the stress the stock bov has due to more air being released to the atmosphere. Install was super easy and haven't had a problem yet, still running a stage 1 Cobb/Alta ots tune