Hi,

I am running the supertech beehive uprated valve springs and their titanium retainers. They are around 20-24% uprated over standard. I would like any input from anyone who is either running uprated valve springs or knows anyone running uprated valve springs.

I'd like to know the following:

1. What are you/they running?
2. Have they had any issues with their timing chain/vanos wheel at all?

According to Supertech they have sold a few hundred of the kits with no issues but the ONLY variable we think we have introduced are the valve springs and we have issues with the vanos holding it's desired set point and it throws up a code. We have since installed a new vanos wheel, new vanos solenoid the lot. No improvement.

Thanks :-)

Steven RW

 

Hi Steven --- I'm probably no help this time. I've been running the SuperTech beehive's (but OEM retainers, I think) for well over a year now. Maybe 10K miles on them, mostly daily driver stuff, with the occasional "pedal-to-the-metal". My tuner tells me my R56 N14 has the most HP in the country. Only issues have been a thermostat, and keeping post-turbo hoses secure at 30PSI.

Probably not what you want to hear, but I think you have an issue with something other than SuperTech's beehives. Unless they sent you the wrong set? Maybe do a spring compression test --- measure force req'd to compress them for a given distance, then compare with SuperTech specs? Also, there's only one spring per valve. I've seen other engines (big V-8's) with an inner and outer spring on each valve.

Good luck solving this --- I miss seeing positive progress on your build.

 

Hi. That IS very helpful this time thanks. I just wanted to hear from another user that they haven't had issues. First hand.

We measured the effort required to compress them compared to standard and the increase was in line with supertech expectations. We must be missing something else. Supposedly when you change vanos components you need to reset the vanos adaptions. I have done that using a good LAUNCH code reader but not the bmw factory device. Maybe that's worth a go. The only other thing we didn't do to utter perfection is the manual chain tensioner. It needs 0.6 lb ft tension. We didn't have a torque wrench that went that low but measured 1 pound in weight one foot leverage to make sure we were in the right place. I maybe need to buy the micro torque meter screw driver at $250 ish do we can measure the exact requirement.

We will crack this issue but it's being a tough one.

We already have a spare 63mm turbo and a designed secondary exhaust take off for between the head and the stock exhaust manifold. We also already have an external wastegate. So if we can get the vanos to stop throwing a code we can get on with the proper stuff on this project.

All other input welcome but thanks for getting back to me OBW. it's a definitely appreciated. Cheers

 

I have 20% stiffer valves springs with bigger valves and taller valve guides. I have used this set up in about 10 ported heads and all are good

mQubed Motorsport, Manic Tuning Dealer

 

Mariokart: thanks for the response.

I'm trying to diagnose why my car throws the 287E and 287D faults. We have replaced the cam chain tensioner, the vanos solenoid and the vanos cam wheel itself. No luck.

The only thing we haven't done 1000% by the book is the tension that we applied to the cam chain when tightening up the cam sproket and bottom pulley bolts. We didn't have a torque wrench that went as low as 1 lb/ft so we couldn't do the book figure of 0.6 lb ft. We did tighten it " just about 1 lb/ft".

In your experience is it utterly mandatory to apply the exact 0.6 lb/ft to the manual cam chain tensioning device to apply the exact right load on the vanos wheel?

Any input whatsoever is appreciated :-).

Thanks,
Steven_RW

 

Here's what I found on your two codes ---
P287D VANOS Actuator Error
P287E VANOS Actuator Signal

If the signal isn't getting there, the actuator won't function. Have you checked all the appropriate cables / connections? Some of these connectors are pretty flimsy, and it appears you've had it apart quite a few times.

 

Thanks for looking into it further.

I am taking Thursday to look at the car again so I am lining up ideas.

Right now having the vanos solenoid plugged in makes a difference to the vanos timing compared to NOT having it plugged in. So it would show that some sort of signal is getting there. We will check the wiring again from scratch.

We also now believe there is a setting on some code readers that will cycle (control..) the vanos solenoid to test it is working. I have got hold of a good Launch code reader and will try this out on Thursday.

Of course I will continue to update everyone.

One thing we didn't do is replace the timing chain when we removed it. It was only 16k to 17k miles old, so it didn't seem necessary. But again.. now that we are turning over every stone, the chances are we will replace that for new too.

Cheers
RW

 

One of the details I didn't read in your summary of events was measuring chain "deflection", or how much stretch it has, when setting the tension. Here's a description of how to measure it (along with a bunch of other info) ---

 

Hi.

Thanks for taking the care to post this. My chain was 16k miles old and I did the test and measure a few weeks ago and everything was within spec. I'll do it all again tomorrow from scratch just to make sure I wasn't wrong.

One thing that interested me is I saw a video that showed a guy replacing the cam chain tensioner. It clearly stated that the cam chain tensioner head (the big nut) should not have the small cut out / dimple right in the centre. It needs to be the one with no cut out. Bmw supplied me a new one with the cut out.

Any opinion?

 

Sorry, no clue --- My rebuild used all the original stuff, except for what I originally intended to replace, and the "single-use" parts. I even re-used my slightly used chain. Considering this was my first attempt at going inside the engine, I was extremely lucky. Took me "forever", or so it seemed, but I did it with only a couple small "do-overs".

Since the suspect tensioner is in the middle of your problem area, that would be a good item to replace. Maybe find one without the cut out and compare the two? Post any differences?

 

I've run my original one which was working fine at the point of disassembling the engine and I replaced it at the time of this fault highlighting after the rebuild. So basically I have perfect proven one and a brand new one to swap. Both have same issues.

What I would appreciate is someone attaching their live reading code reader and telling me what vanos position (both set point and actual) is shown at 3,000 rpm in neutral. I will video mine and we can compare. It "seems" that my actual is slow to react compared to the desired set point which moves. It's as high as 36° and then flips down to 6° set point but the actual doesn't keep up...

 

Fixed it. Embarrassingly simple. Vanos solenoid plug was on wrong device. Switched up with the fuel tank venting sensor.......

Shameful

Haha

Thanks all

 

That explains the VANOS Actuator Signal error.

 

Perfectly.

Whilst embarrassing for me to admit this issue I felt it important to do so. Most of the plugs behind the inlet manifold area can only fit in one socket/item. So you really don't think this is a possibility but it is. Hopefully that saves someone a nightmare another time.

. Car now going well. Starting, Idling, cruising and full throttle.

Now to turn up the boost on this turbo and then to add the second turbo.

Thanks to everyone for inputting.