R56 Upgrades that matter
Upgrades that matter
Wanted to know what you guys think are a good list of upgrades to get for my 2011 mini s. Just picked her up and wanted to know what you guys have done/ want to do to your cars. Thanks
My daughter just bought a 2011 Mini Cooper S with 57K miles. Aside from normal oil and filter changes and checking fluids front to back, I don't plan any "upgrades" because it doesn't need any. It's fast, handles well, shocks and suspension are sound, and has good tires. We did have a thermostat housing replaced (dealer covered under sales warranty even though they didn't have to.)
Just this week I heard that it has an occasional miss; I have read that 30K on spark plugs is about typical for the Cooper S, so I'll check codes on it and drop new plugs in this weekend. If the miss persists, I'll diagnose coils as the likely culprit.
Just this week I heard that it has an occasional miss; I have read that 30K on spark plugs is about typical for the Cooper S, so I'll check codes on it and drop new plugs in this weekend. If the miss persists, I'll diagnose coils as the likely culprit.
I wouldn't say there are any real upgrades that "matter." I too bought my MCS with 57k miles this past September and have added an intake, Borla cat-back exhaust, Wagner FMIC, H&R rear sway bar, slotted rotors/performance pads, boost tube, and a Manic Stage 1+ Tune. All upgrades have been real nice but certainly not necessary.
Aside from those upgrades I've had the HPFP replaced under warranty, and have changed the following on my own:
- Vacuum pump (leaking oil)
- Turbo Oil Line (leaking lots of oil) I used the Detroit Tuning line to ensure this is a one-time fix.
- Valve cover gasket (leaking oil)
- Oil filter housing gaskets (leaking oil)
- Coolant/Oil Heat exchange gaskets (not sure if that's the correct term, also leaking oil)
- Spark plugs
- De-coked my intake valved due to excessive carbon build-up.
These maintenance items + making sure that your oil is ALWAYS topped off are what really matter to get the most out of this car.
I certainly wasn't expected to spend this much time and money repairing a car with relatively low miles but now I am comfortable driving it around worry free...(until I browse the NAM forums and see other issues that folks are experiencing).
The only upgrade I absolutely recommend is having you windows tinted. It's a matter of preference but I think it makes the Mini look 10x better.
Aside from those upgrades I've had the HPFP replaced under warranty, and have changed the following on my own:
- Vacuum pump (leaking oil)
- Turbo Oil Line (leaking lots of oil) I used the Detroit Tuning line to ensure this is a one-time fix.
- Valve cover gasket (leaking oil)
- Oil filter housing gaskets (leaking oil)
- Coolant/Oil Heat exchange gaskets (not sure if that's the correct term, also leaking oil)
- Spark plugs
- De-coked my intake valved due to excessive carbon build-up.
These maintenance items + making sure that your oil is ALWAYS topped off are what really matter to get the most out of this car.
I certainly wasn't expected to spend this much time and money repairing a car with relatively low miles but now I am comfortable driving it around worry free...(until I browse the NAM forums and see other issues that folks are experiencing).
The only upgrade I absolutely recommend is having you windows tinted. It's a matter of preference but I think it makes the Mini look 10x better.
One thing I forgot to add....I highly recommend getting buying some sort of OBD reader as these cars love to throw codes.
I paid $70 for an OBDLink off Amazon and I absolutely love it. I've used it several time to read/clear codes and I use it on a daily basis to monitor real-time stats such as:
- Boost psi
- Air/fuel ratios
- Intake temp
- Coolant Temp
- plus a few others
I paid $70 for an OBDLink off Amazon and I absolutely love it. I've used it several time to read/clear codes and I use it on a daily basis to monitor real-time stats such as:
- Boost psi
- Air/fuel ratios
- Intake temp
- Coolant Temp
- plus a few others
If you want the full scan tool its here, it will find all the stored codes also. great to have incase.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...d-q-and-a.html
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...d-q-and-a.html
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MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
i plan on adding an exhaust system 100%, i would want my end result to be added power but with a deeper sounding tone. but besides that exhaust i don't know what else would make a noticeable power and handling gain.
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You can get a Manic One tune for $400 with no upgrades. Best bang for your buck. Cheapest noticeable suspension mod is a RSB. I bought an H&R 22 from ECS at a great price.
As for the exhaust system i HIGHLY recommend the Borla. It has a nice deep tone at WOT, zero drone and is not obnoxious at all. I would recommend something else if you're looking for something LOUD.
As for the exhaust system i HIGHLY recommend the Borla. It has a nice deep tone at WOT, zero drone and is not obnoxious at all. I would recommend something else if you're looking for something LOUD.
You can get a Manic One tune for $400 with no upgrades. Best bang for your buck. Cheapest noticeable suspension mod is a RSB. I bought an H&R 22 from ECS at a great price.
As for the exhaust system i HIGHLY recommend the Borla. It has a nice deep tone at WOT, zero drone and is not obnoxious at all. I would recommend something else if you're looking for something LOUD.
As for the exhaust system i HIGHLY recommend the Borla. It has a nice deep tone at WOT, zero drone and is not obnoxious at all. I would recommend something else if you're looking for something LOUD.
which have you got s chance to hear or seen? Sorry for so many questions just want to get this right being its a costly upgrade
I've heard the CNT and Alta exhausts. Both sound pretty good but I prefer my Borla over both. I can't comment on drone or cabin noise, I'm referring to how they sound outside of the car. CNT is a pretty cost effective option though.
I have a nm intake, invidia Q300 exhaust (totally worth it), lower motor mount insert (worth it, cheap, easy to install), jb+ piggy back tune (best bang for the buck performance mod), Cravenspeed dipstick (if you want to check your oil and actually know), shorty antenna from auto zone (works well and a lot cheaper than alta). Things I'm going to get: catless downpipe, intercooler, boost tubes, coilovers, rear sway bar, wheels and rims for more traction, and an lsd (way later on when I need a new clutch) hope this helps. I'm working towards a manic stage 2 tune. I also bought the Alta boost spring for the bov haven't tried it yet though.
I focused mainly on sound and touch.
Sound - K&N Air Filter for that extra BOV noise and the fJCW muffler which is in my opinion the best replacement muffler. It's louder but there's no drone. And you have the 2011+ with the N18 engine so you'll have the pops in sport mode which I am getting with Manic Stage 2.
Touch - Replaced the steering wheel with the JCW fatter alcantara/leather steering wheel, feels great. Replaced the shift **** with the JCW leather carbon shifter. Installed the Helix short shifter for shorter throws.
Next I'm focusing on power, I have a catless DP and FMIC and will be getting the Manic Stage 2 tune in a couple months or so.
Sound - K&N Air Filter for that extra BOV noise and the fJCW muffler which is in my opinion the best replacement muffler. It's louder but there's no drone. And you have the 2011+ with the N18 engine so you'll have the pops in sport mode which I am getting with Manic Stage 2.
Touch - Replaced the steering wheel with the JCW fatter alcantara/leather steering wheel, feels great. Replaced the shift **** with the JCW leather carbon shifter. Installed the Helix short shifter for shorter throws.
Next I'm focusing on power, I have a catless DP and FMIC and will be getting the Manic Stage 2 tune in a couple months or so.
I focused mainly on sound and touch.
Sound - K&N Air Filter for that extra BOV noise and the fJCW muffler which is in my opinion the best replacement muffler. It's louder but there's no drone. And you have the 2011+ with the N18 engine so you'll have the pops in sport mode which I am getting with Manic Stage 2.
Touch - Replaced the steering wheel with the JCW fatter alcantara/leather steering wheel, feels great. Replaced the shift **** with the JCW leather carbon shifter. Installed the Helix short shifter for shorter throws.
Next I'm focusing on power, I have a catless DP and FMIC and will be getting the Manic Stage 2 tune in a couple months or so.
Sound - K&N Air Filter for that extra BOV noise and the fJCW muffler which is in my opinion the best replacement muffler. It's louder but there's no drone. And you have the 2011+ with the N18 engine so you'll have the pops in sport mode which I am getting with Manic Stage 2.
Touch - Replaced the steering wheel with the JCW fatter alcantara/leather steering wheel, feels great. Replaced the shift **** with the JCW leather carbon shifter. Installed the Helix short shifter for shorter throws.
Next I'm focusing on power, I have a catless DP and FMIC and will be getting the Manic Stage 2 tune in a couple months or so.
2011 mcs
My daughter just bought a 2011 Mini Cooper S with 57K miles. Aside from normal oil and filter changes and checking fluids front to back, I don't plan any "upgrades" because it doesn't need any. It's fast, handles well, shocks and suspension are sound, and has good tires. We did have a thermostat housing replaced (dealer covered under sales warranty even though they didn't have to.)
Just this week I heard that it has an occasional miss; I have read that 30K on spark plugs is about typical for the Cooper S, so I'll check codes on it and drop new plugs in this weekend. If the miss persists, I'll diagnose coils as the likely culprit.
Just this week I heard that it has an occasional miss; I have read that 30K on spark plugs is about typical for the Cooper S, so I'll check codes on it and drop new plugs in this weekend. If the miss persists, I'll diagnose coils as the likely culprit.
I love the short shifter, it's a great addition and makes the throws a lot shorter. Of course it takes more effort to get into gear as a result, but I think my arms never had a problem adjusting. I did not get the box because the heatshield on the exhaust pretty much covers the shift linkage area anyways, I didn't want to bother paying $80 for a slightly modified plastic box. It's held up the last year through salty Wisconsin roads so I think I made the right choice.
Besides exhaust, "breathing" improvements also include all the air handling pipes / parts --- notably the FMIC and its associated plumbing --- everything between the turbo and intake manifold.
As for handling, lose the run flats --- no matter what else you do --- they destroy your butt. Then there's a stiffer RSB, shocks / coil-overs, brakes, and all kinds of suspension geometry improvements available --- all depending on your ultimate usage.
A whole new intake manifold would be overkill. Expensive and not that much more gain. Be satisfied with a good CAI filter that fits. My K & N filter mounted directly to the manifold and included all the plumbing up to the turbo.
The nearest Manic dealer is hundreds of miles from me. But it looks like the product is not customized, just pick a map and go. Does anybody sell the tune/SPS module online?
I suggest you find the nearest Manic tuner and work with him. Most of us here have our own agenda. Lotsa good info, but may or may not apply to you. A tuner can guide you thru the various mods required for each stage. This will keep you from spending money on mods "above" the stage you're working towards. You can even get noticeable improvement with no mods, just a good tune.
If you go with a complete system, get a larger diameter pipe out of the turbo and throughout the entire system. I chose an Alta 3" system, but my goal was "big power". Engine "breathing" capability is key to making power, and since the exhaust system is one of the priciest mods, choose the size most appropriate for your end goal --- 3" is way too big for most people. 2.75" is more common. Whoever makes the sound you prefer, probably has different sizes available too. I added a resonator to keep noise down --- it's a "sleeper" and I don't want to attract a lot of attention.
Besides exhaust, "breathing" improvements also include all the air handling pipes / parts --- notably the FMIC and its associated plumbing --- everything between the turbo and intake manifold.
As for handling, lose the run flats --- no matter what else you do --- they destroy your butt. Then there's a stiffer RSB, shocks / coil-overs, brakes, and all kinds of suspension geometry improvements available --- all depending on your ultimate usage.
You might start with obtaining all old service records, to see what has been done already. If the dealer is reluctant, have them delete the previous owners name, etc.
A whole new intake manifold would be overkill. Expensive and not that much more gain. Be satisfied with a good CAI filter that fits. My K & N filter mounted directly to the manifold and included all the plumbing up to the turbo.
If you go with a complete system, get a larger diameter pipe out of the turbo and throughout the entire system. I chose an Alta 3" system, but my goal was "big power". Engine "breathing" capability is key to making power, and since the exhaust system is one of the priciest mods, choose the size most appropriate for your end goal --- 3" is way too big for most people. 2.75" is more common. Whoever makes the sound you prefer, probably has different sizes available too. I added a resonator to keep noise down --- it's a "sleeper" and I don't want to attract a lot of attention.
Besides exhaust, "breathing" improvements also include all the air handling pipes / parts --- notably the FMIC and its associated plumbing --- everything between the turbo and intake manifold.
As for handling, lose the run flats --- no matter what else you do --- they destroy your butt. Then there's a stiffer RSB, shocks / coil-overs, brakes, and all kinds of suspension geometry improvements available --- all depending on your ultimate usage.
You might start with obtaining all old service records, to see what has been done already. If the dealer is reluctant, have them delete the previous owners name, etc.
A whole new intake manifold would be overkill. Expensive and not that much more gain. Be satisfied with a good CAI filter that fits. My K & N filter mounted directly to the manifold and included all the plumbing up to the turbo.
He's right in retro spect I would have gone k&n as it utilizes the fresh air inlet piping as opposed to my nm intake that just let's it hang. Not really a fan of this design.
I suggest you find the nearest Manic tuner and work with him. Most of us here have our own agenda. Lotsa good info, but may or may not apply to you. A tuner can guide you thru the various mods required for each stage. This will keep you from spending money on mods "above" the stage you're working towards. You can even get noticeable improvement with no mods, just a good tune. If you go with a complete system, get a larger diameter pipe out of the turbo and throughout the entire system. I chose an Alta 3" system, but my goal was "big power". Engine "breathing" capability is key to making power, and since the exhaust system is one of the priciest mods, choose the size most appropriate for your end goal --- 3" is way too big for most people. 2.75" is more common. Whoever makes the sound you prefer, probably has different sizes available too. I added a resonator to keep noise down --- it's a "sleeper" and I don't want to attract a lot of attention. Besides exhaust, "breathing" improvements also include all the air handling pipes / parts --- notably the FMIC and its associated plumbing --- everything between the turbo and intake manifold. As for handling, lose the run flats --- no matter what else you do --- they destroy your butt. Then there's a stiffer RSB, shocks / coil-overs, brakes, and all kinds of suspension geometry improvements available --- all depending on your ultimate usage. You might start with obtaining all old service records, to see what has been done already. If the dealer is reluctant, have them delete the previous owners name, etc. A whole new intake manifold would be overkill. Expensive and not that much more gain. Be satisfied with a good CAI filter that fits. My K & N filter mounted directly to the manifold and included all the plumbing up to the turbo.
I don't have ready access to a link to their web site --- I bought their filter over 5 years ago and it's been trouble-free. It's their "Typhoon" model. Because of my aftermarket turbo, I had to make major changes to the turbo interface plumbing, but for your purposes, it should bolt right on.
You should be able to find it on their site without too much trouble.
You should be able to find it on their site without too much trouble.






