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Not sure about question 1. But there is no harm in not doing the update.
Thanks - I'm pretty sure it's a coding exercise and not an ecu update, so probably better to get that done. Bracing myself for the insane installation quote from the local mini dealer...
What year is your R56?
What's the purpose of programming the DSC for the JCW brakes? I put a set of used JCW brakes on and never had an issue or had to reprogram the DSC.
What year is your R56?
What's the purpose of programming the DSC for the JCW brakes? I put a set of used JCW brakes on and never had an issue or had to reprogram the DSC.
What year is your R56?
What's the purpose of programming the DSC for the JCW brakes? I put a set of used JCW brakes on and never had an issue or had to reprogram the DSC.
There are compatibility issues between the JCW sport brakes and the DSC. In a situation where the DSC is needed, it will over apply the brakes to make the corrections the ECU thinks needs to be made when the car is about to spin out. This is especially a problem if you have the DTC option where the brakes are used in place of a true mechanical limit slip differential. The JCW brakes will be over applied to the brakes on the inside wheel and cause the wheel to actually drag.
In most street driving applications, not having the ECU upgrade will likely not be seen as a particular problem. However, I am not total sure on this statement as I trying it out with the BBK. In extreme circumstance, such as on the track or in autocross, it becomes very evident (I've been there, done that). If it shows up there, then it could show up on the street, depending on conditions.
The ECU change is actual made to the ABS module. I did find an Indi shop that could do the change. The dealer will make the change if you install the JCW sport brakes, but mine dealer would not for the Wilwoods I put on.
There are compatibility issues between the JCW sport brakes and the DSC. In a situation where the DSC is needed, it will over apply the brakes to make the corrections the ECU thinks needs to be made when the car is about to spin out. This is especially a problem if you have the DTC option where the brakes are used in place of a true mechanical limit slip differential. The JCW brakes will be over applied to the brakes on the inside wheel and cause the wheel to actually drag.
In most street driving applications, not having the ECU upgrade will likely not be seen as a particular problem. However, I am not total sure on this statement as I trying it out with the BBK. In extreme circumstance, such as on the track or in autocross, it becomes very evident (I've been there, done that). If it shows up there, then it could show up on the street, depending on conditions.
The ECU change is actual made to the ABS module. I did find an Indi shop that could do the change. The dealer will make the change if you install the JCW sport brakes, but mine dealer would not for the Wilwoods I put on.
Hope this helps.
Thanks for that. Makes total sense. I am going to to do the update for sure - I suspect Mini won't be too difficult about doing the update only. Worst case it will have to be done through NCS Expert I guess...
{ 5. Concluding work and coding
The retrofit system requires encoding.
– Reconnect vehicle battery
– Encode retrofit with Software Service Station (SSS) via the path – Retrofit / Sports Brake – – Perform quick test
– Reassemble vehicle in reverse order of removal
– Perform function test
The workshop certificate (see Section 6) is to be completed and handed over to the customer together with the customer information K and the TÜV component certificate (see Annex).
It must be pointed out to the customer that the brake system will require acceptance and the vehicle documents will need to be amended as the brake system will changed in the approval and homologation data. Correct installation must be certified by an officially recognised expert. }
I'm guessing this is only for warranty approval if an issue occurs from improper installation or verification the dealership needs. Not saying that coding isn't needed but sounds more like dealership bull crap especially if they're going to charge you for re-coding.
I got my brakes used so I didn't know re-coding is needed and I have the DTC option. Which posses this question does any of the aftermarket brakes require this re-coding?
I got my brakes used so I didn't know re-coding is needed and I have the DTC option. Which posses this question does any of the aftermarket brakes require this re-coding?
I would suspect that any upgrade to more powerful brakes benefit from the recoding.
I got my brakes used so I didn't know re-coding is needed and I have the DTC option. Which posses this question does any of the aftermarket brakes require this re-coding?
If your car came with stock brakes, then it is programmed for the stock brakes. So if you are installing the JCW/Brembo brake upgrade, then you should do the ECU upgrade, no matter where you got the brakes from. Otherwise, with the DTC option it will over-brake that inside wheel in a corner if it starts to spin. If nothing else it will wear out pads and rotors faster. In a case of running autocross, it will seriously slow you down.
As for BBKs in general, the best I can figure out is that the need to do the ECU upgrade is a function of the piston area of the BBK. The JCW brakes have about 1/3rd less piston area than that of stock brakes. The ECU upgrade matches the ABS system to that smaller area. So, if the BBK matches the stock brakes in piston area, then you would not need to do the upgrade. If the piston area of the BBK is the same as the JCW brakes, then the ECU needs to be upgraded with the BBK. That was the problem that I ran into with my BBK.
Note, if you are going to calculate piston area, the area of the piston in the stock single piston caliper, it is the simple area formula for a circle. No mystery there. In a BBK, say with 4 pistons in the caliper, it is the area of the single piston times 2....not 4. Why not "4" you ask. You are looking at calculate the force on one pad of the pair in a brake, so it is the area of the piston(s) on one side of the rotor...besides, that is the way Wilwood calculates the area.
Last edited by Eddie07S; Feb 1, 2016 at 04:39 PM.
Reason: added area calculation explanation
Well, in 2011 I added the JCW 4 piston Brembo brake kit front and back to my 2008 MCS. No coding done and they were great - no issues. Last year I swapped those out with a set of 6 piston JCW GPS Brembo front calipers/rotors along with GP master cylinder. Again no coding and no issues. These brakes are phenominal. I go canyon carving and can really get on them really hard but have never had even an inkling of an issue. I do have the factory LSD though.
Well, in 2011 I added the JCW 4 piston Brembo brake kit front and back to my 2008 MCS. No coding done and they were great - no issues. Last year I swapped those out with a set of 6 piston JCW GPS Brembo front calipers/rotors along with GP master cylinder. Again no coding and no issues. These brakes are phenominal. I go canyon carving and can really get on them really hard but have never had even an inkling of an issue. I do have the factory LSD though.
This is what I would expect. Without the DTC and having a mechanical LSD, you avoided having most any issues. I believe your car came standard with traction control and DSC was optional. If you don't have DSC, then the only effect of not doing the coding would be to produce a bit over aggressive ABS action when over braking, which might not be noticeable if you are not looking for it.
Unfortunately, the later cars with DSC and DTC and no mechanical LSD option are not in the same position as you. But, then again, if the car is not being pushed to its limits, such as sliding in corners or hard acceleration out of corners, the problems with not recoding will likely not occur or be noticed. My particular issues came about as a result of having the DTC option and that painfully bad, stupid eLSD and a particular nasty uphill corkscrew turn at WGI... If it wasn't for that, I may not have noticed an particular issues either. Well, there were those unexplainably slow times in autocross, which I just thought were my fault...
Glad your brakes are working well for you
Sounds like a nice setup.
Enjoy
This is what I would expect. Without the DTC and having a mechanical LSD, you avoided having most any issues. I believe your car came standard with traction control and DSC was optional. If you don't have DSC, then the only effect of not doing the coding would be to produce a bit over aggressive ABS action when over braking, which might not be noticeable if you are not looking for it.
Unfortunately, the later cars with DSC and DTC and no mechanical LSD option are not in the same position as you. But, then again, if the car is not being pushed to its limits, such as sliding in corners or hard acceleration out of corners, the problems with not recoding will likely not occur or be noticed. My particular issues came about as a result of having the DTC option and that painfully bad, stupid eLSD and a particular nasty uphill corkscrew turn at WGI... If it wasn't for that, I may not have noticed an particular issues either. Well, there were those unexplainably slow times in autocross, which I just thought were my fault...
Glad your brakes are working well for you
Sounds like a nice setup.
Enjoy
The flash dials back the ABS on the four piston brembo kit. We have the GP2 retrofit kit and with the larger GP2 stock master cylinder, much better with the larger master. With the JCW brake flash , even much better. The biggest jump was going to the GP2 master on the GP2 Brake kit.
On the JCW brake kit four piston on the R56 the flash does dial back the abs, pedal feel of course stays the same , but in quick stops the abs does not kick on all the time.
Thats what well felt when swapping around the systems.
Thanks - according to the dealer it has to be a full flash - which is not ideal as I would lose the manic tune for sure.
Anyway - based on all posts above I think i'm going to skip the flash for now.
From my experience, I you are not pushing the limits and you are not kicking in the eLSD or the ABS, you won't notice not having the re-flash. If you find it bothersome, at a later time you can get the re-flash.