The Intro:
So I am in the process of replacing the OEM clutch on my 2007 Mini Cooper S with another OEM clutch (valeo) because she is mostly a daily driver and until I do more serious mods/track days I figured I may as well stay stock.

Read through the google machine, current threads, tutorials etc and havent found an answer to this yet so I am hoping someone who has done their R56 (or similar) clutch could comment.

This is my first clutch job, though I am reasonably competent at hobby mechanic-ing, on my mini I have done the timing chain replacement, decoked the valves, various cooling system fixes and seal replacements.

The question:
I am down to where I need to put the new clutch on my shiny new flywheel, and the Bentley manual says I have to use special tool 21 2 170 and 21 0 010. Now I can find no reference to anyone using this tool on any of the threads, or tutorials or anything outside of this. It also does not seem to be super prevalent, which I find odd because of how many people seem to do clutch replacements. So does anyone actually use this or not?

It seems possible to me that people could forgo it. The friction disc naturally sits about 1/3 of an inch farther out than mounting face of the pressure plate, so there is a gap between that mounting face and the flywheel.


The tool seems to take the pressure off of the friction disc by depressing the diaphragm spring, so you can bolt it down and easily keep it aligned while you do so. My thought is that if things are properly aligned down the center hole, and your friction disc is properly positioned and seated you should just be able to bolt the pressure plate down to the flywheel using a star pattern in very small increments to get the same result. Thoughts?

 

here is where a *good* shop manual would explain the alternatives to using the special tool.

I wonder should you use the same torque on the pressure plate screws using that tool vs not?

 

I was able to get mine back together without using either of these special tools. Lotsa TLC and special attention to the crankshaft center hole alignment. Gotta admit that neither clutch or flywheel is OEM, so my experience might not be applicable. However, my RPM limit is 7K and there's no extra vibration, so I didn't screw anything up.

 

Okay, so I put the new flywheel and clutch on, just used the method I stated above and everything lined up fine and some TLC like oldbrokenwind said. I used the human eye, an appropriate sized socket to slide down the crank hole, and noted the edges of the friction disc in relation to the pressure plate. Axles are back in and the tranny and subframe are bolted back on. I \assume things should be pretty good considering the tranny shaft slid in okay. I will hopefully finish putting the CAM, intake and all the trim/tires back on and fire her up tonight and see if anything bad happens on the way to get her re-aligned. Then I will give some updates after I break the clutch in.

 

So gave the new clutch about 500 miles of mostly city driving under 4k rpms to break it in before I switched back to more, er, "spirited" driving. I have about 700 miles on it now and it is performing awesomely with no slippage. I may check back in later to give another update in a few thousand miles but at this point I am willing to say this method of installation works fine.

 

I'm replacing the clutch in an '08 Clubby S, and I'm wondering the same thing about the crankshaft rear seal. The Bentley manual calls for three different special tools, which would be a ludicrous idea if the lot of them cost more than $15. The removal is pretty straight forward, and the replacement steps in the Bentley manual set up the seal to stay perfectly "normal" to the orifice. I can't find a single tool kit at the auto parts places that fits a 105mm diameter seal, and it doesn't seem very many people have either replaced this seal or documented it.

 

During my rebuild, nothing was done to disturb the crankshaft seal. It didn't show signs of leaking, mileage was about 70K, and I didn't want the "special tool" problem, so I didn't replace it --- lazy and cheap. Replacing it would be good insurance "while you're in there". After about 20K miles, mine's still leak-free.

There are sources for Mini special tools, Assenmacher Specialty Tools, Inc. for one. Some of our NAM vendors might also have them. Bentley manual also references a few more.

 

I've never had a problem replacing a clutch. I put the disc in place, install all bolts on the pressure plate with each bolt barely engaged, then reach around the edges of the pressure plate and center up the disc by feel. Never used a clutch centering tool, never had a problem with that method.

Rear crank seals seldom leak on most cars. The thing you need to remember is to replace the pilot bushing if the flywheel has one.