Hello the most active Mini forum in the world

I've got few issues with my beloved Mini, but let's start with this. My two key fobs are not working - they are not opening the doors or the hatch. Of course I can use the key to manually unlock the car, but that's a bit frustrating. I bought the car with this failure and I was aware of it and now I hope to reprogram the keys or somehow connect them to the car. Of course I can start the car with no issues.

The batteries are fine, I've checked and the fobs are transmitting the signal. It can be the receiver in the car failure :( but I hope it's not!

The question is how to you reset or reprogram the key fob for R56 Mini Cooper? I've seen dozens of instructions for older Mini (which don't work) and spent hours searching the answer.. and couldn't find it. If you know the answer than you become the MASTER of Mini Keys!

This is European version of MINI, but I will take all answers and test them so hopefully this thread can help others as well.

That's how the key fob looks like: Google link

Please help, I would love to use my key fobs to open the car as a civilized people do

 

1. Go to dealer to have key fobs reprogrammed
2. Find someone with ICOM A1/A2 and software to reprogram. (Cheapest.).

 

ggrimm01 thank you for your answer. I forgot to mention that I know I can go to my local dealer but paying them 3 or 4 times more than it's worth it, is making me nervous

2. Find someone with ICOM A1/A2 and software to reprogram.

OK that's something I wasn't aware of, thank you. So the 1st generation MINI can be reprogrammed with 5 easy steps, but there is no way for 2nd generation to do the same?
Oh, and I should probably use the K+D-CAN INPA.

 

As far as we know, there are no easy steps to programming the 2nd-gen MINI key. Unless you count going to the dealer and opening your wallet WIDE as being "easy steps"...

 

Once the key fobs have been programmed to the car they can't be reprogrammed. If your car has comfort access (black button on drivers door handle) you can replace the battery in the fob, if not your only choice is to order new fobs from the dealer at around $160 each. If your car is starting with the fob the battery maybe ok and it could be your antenna that the fob communicates to in order to lock and unlock the doors. It might be worthwhile having your dealer diagnose it rather than throwing money at it.

 

It doesn't have comfort access. But please note that it's fairly easy to replace the battery on the regular fobs as well. Just remove the shiny ring, force open the fob, replace the battery, glue it together and put the ring back on. Almost every guy that knows this or that about stuff can do that. Cost: 10-20$. But at MINI they said (I asked) you HAVE to buy new fob and it's actually closer to 200$ in my country. Dealer is usually not needed in 95% of problems.

From what I read here I can program them with cable, that's great! Probably that's the exact same way they do that at Mini. Also I read somewhere that BMW fobs can lost "connection" after pressing the buttons 1000 times when you are not in the close distance of the car; or when you change the battery for longer than 1 min.

Both fobs can start the car, and they are transmitting the signal (I've checked that). I'm afraid as well that it can be the antenna since BOTH keys don't work which is kind of strange.

 

Place the fob in the key and press it in for power but do not start the car. Leave for 10 seconds then remove it. Repeat with key #2. If the key starts the car which it does either the CAS has lost the RFID which the above will correct or there is a reception problem.

 

Thank you Tigger, tried that and it didn't work.

I'm wondering if any of you guys've used INPA or NCSExpert to reset or reprogram the key fobs? Or INPA to check if the receiver is OK? I've bought the cable, connected successfully with the car and even deleted that annoying Eletrical Steeringwheel Lock error, but messing with keys is another story. I'm searching the manual all over the web. If you have something, I would be more than grateful.

 

"Forcing open the fob" is a bit harder than you make it out to be. I run "MINI Key Hospital" and taking apart these hockey puck style keys is a real PITA. I've done two so far and the first one came apart fairly easily which was good as the customer didn't want to buy a new shell. The second one was almost impossible to pull apart intact which was great as the customer wanted a new shell anyway (theirs was falling apart). You have to do this all without destroying the circuit board. Replacing the battery isn't that easy, either- you have to track down the correct battery, desolder the old one and solder the new one in. You have to have some knowledge of replacing components at board level. This is not a job for a beginner with soldering. I have had the batteries out for a considerable (days) time with the first generation keys and more than a minute for the refresh (three button) keys and had no problems with those keys continuing to to work. I will let you know what happened with the hockey puck key when the customer gets it later this week.

Also- how did you check to see that the fobs are transmitting a signal? I use a spectrum analyzer and actually can see the transmitted signal on a scope waveform. Please note that the keys themselves aren't actually programmed- the car is programmed to accept/recognize them.

Good luck with it- let me know if I can help in some way.

Val

 

I have a 2012 Mini Cooper R56 that I bought new and has been great ever since. It came with two key fobs which I personalized, one for me and one for wife. However, yesterday, I inserted my key FOB and nothing, zero lights, nothing. Removed, reinserted and still nothing and just the previous day I had used the FOB all day stopping and starting the car for errands. I can still unlock, lock, move windows up and down with FOB, just when I insert the FOB, no lights nothing. Checked battery voltage, good, tried other FOB and it works fine, starts car, no problem. Any Ideas would be appreciated.thanks jim

 

Hey Val, thank you for your input. You are right about the first part. I should add to my previous answer that you need some electrical knowledge or better take it to the professional electrician. One of my keys is opened (previous owner probably changed the battery, or tried to) so I've figured out that it should be pretty easy. It might not be, but there are guys like you who can do that and I was pointing out that you don't always need the new fob from dealer

Regarding transmitting the signal. I went to a similar guy to you, which is also programming/repairing key fobs. He placed the key fob on something that looked like a kitchen scale and the Hz value pop out. Then he started to press the buttons and the Hz value changed (slightly). He also did that with a new MINI key fob that he had in the store, values were the same. Then he said that the fobs are OK and the problem is probably with the receiver or computer and he can't help :(

Well.. if you have some knowledge about INPA and how to check the receiver.. or how to check anything . Unfortunately I can't access the Central Control Unit with INPA (IFH-0009 error grr) but I can access the CAS driver and I checked that the fobs are not blocked (obviously, as I can start the car) but I could't find anything related to central locking. I've found a neat tutorial for BMW E46 here http://www.maxbimmer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=161606. Maybe I'm wrong.. maybe everything I need is in CAS drvier and not the Central Control Unit (not sure what does it do, but sounds like something similar to central locking).
Oh one thing, maybe you know how to reinitialize the key fobs? Restart/Reprogram not sure how to name it.. In previous MINI (1st gen) you could do that by pressing the lock/unlock buttons. Anything similar for the 2nd gen?

 

Hello crj, your issue is much different but I will tell you what I know. First of all that's a rare case you have over there. The fob is working so it's not the battery, it's also not a computer sync issue.. I would say that it may be your computer messing up. If you want to do it DIY and you are not afraid to connect your laptop to the car's computer, you may try exactly that. You need a K+DCAN cable, INPA software (usually comes with a cable) and a laptop. With INPA software you can check (CAS driver) if the key is blocked or not (and some other useful info about the key, sorry wasn't my case so I don't exactly remember). There are a lot of tutorials over there about how to connect your car so I suggest we keep this thread to the original topic or we will make a mess soon.

For the moment, maybe try the Tigger advice above. Or you may try to start the car with the working key. Remove the key (you should get a warning about your key missing), and then place the non-working key and see what happens.

 

When you are saying over there, where is over there? I will order a cable and if you have a source let me know and i'll order. thanks. Yep, and i think it is weird that one key quit working and it still doesn't work, also, when I put the working key in the key fob hole and start the car, you can't remove the key or at least I don't know how to get the key out without turning off the car.

 

I do not know how to re-initialize key fobs. It's something you have to do with the car's computer. From what I have been able to understand, there is nothing you can do with the key or remote board to "program" it. They transmit their code (that is recognized by the car they are for) and that's it- once manufactured the code can not be changed.

There are two parts to these keys- the immobilizer chip which is passive and not depending on the battery for the remote and the remote board which is run by a battery. If your remote functions work then the battery inside of the key is fine. If that fob/key won't start the car then the car is not recognizing the immobilizer chip inside and it's probably a programming issue with the car's computer.

FYI- here's a picture of the signal transmitted by a first generation, clamshell style key:



Val

 

I have the exact same problem.. How did you fix?

 

I haven't, take it back to dealer, still under warranty.

 

Hi all, I know I am in the wrong spot but I am looking fo some help with the INPA software. I have an R50 that I think the EWS has stopped talking to the DME (see my post in 1st gen: 02 cranks no spark no injector signal.html ).

I have been searching for days to find the sequence for resyncing the EWS to the DME but finding info on using INPA on Mini's is near impossible. (at least it has been for me).

Can anyone help?

Thanks!

Edited....
Hi all, again sorry for posting here!
Desperate times call for desperate measures!

I was able to get her running. I posted the fix on my original post!

 

([QUOTE=advoco;4149404] If you want to do it DIY and you are not afraid to connect your laptop to the car's computer, you may try exactly that. You need a K+DCAN cable, INPA software (usually comes with a cable) and a laptop. With INPA software you can check (CAS driver) if the key is blocked or not (and some other useful info about the key, sorry wasn't my case so I don't exactly remember). There are a lot of tutorials over there about how to connect your car so I suggest we keep this thread to the original topic or we will make a mess soon.)

Hi there,

My 2007 Mini Cooper S key was damaged whilst trying to open it (was glued by previous owner)...Now the PCB tracks, a capacitor and an IC (IC1003) is damaged...tried bit trace repair etc...but didn't worked out.. Now I am left with option to get a Virgin Key and Program it OR go to the dealers.. I would like to try the first one.. As advoco says it may be possible with K+CAN cable, Software and a Laptop (windows or Mac?)...but I don't know what are the steps/procedures to get it done and what are the things to buy and software download link.... Is there a link or youtube video on DIY.? Just wondering if someone experienced enough could shed some light into this area..? Thanks.

 

2009 MCS. Purchase use from dealer. It came with two key fobs. One of the fobs has been used extensively - because of wear on the housing. The other fob appears relatively unused. The "used" fob works fine with no problems. the "new" does not work. I inserted the "new" FOB and nothing, zero lights, nothing. Removed, reinserted and still nothing. I can still unlock, lock, with FOB, just when I insert the FOB, no lights on the dash, nothing. Checked battery voltage, good, tried other FOB and it works fine, starts car, no problem. Any Ideas would be appreciated.thanks....Ken

 

I own a 2012 mini and one of my key fobs quit working, but it would still unlock/lock doors, trunk, etc, Turns out it went bad, and had to be replaced by dealer. Key FOB was defective, something to do with frequency. Had to bring car in to have it checked and then they ordered a new FOB and FEDEXed to me. Car was still under warranty. Hope you can get it straighted out with dealer.

 

Same with mine......

 

I think people are over complicating things in this thread,....
the FOB antenna is in the rear view mirror assembly. If BOTH your keys are not working (all buttons not locking and unlocking on BOTH keys), most likely it is the antenna.
remove the mirror and check the connector, is it corroded or signs of corrosion? if yes, clan the terminals and try again, if still not working try to swap with another one, or just buy a new one, that should fix your issues, no need to reprogram keys or whatever other wizardry suggested. it would only be a CAS module if the key would not start the car.
Good luck!

 

Problem is with the remote part of the key fob itself..not with CAS or anything else. The remote pCB track has been ripped and a capacitor is missing and one of the IC leg. And have got only that key no other working or non-working Keys.

I think I have to program a Virgin Key to the CAS module. (but don't know how to do)

Other option is removing the CAS module and posting it to a Key Programmer..but don't know how to remove the CAS module..will greatly appreciable if someone could provide a video link or step by step pictorial instruction how to remove the CAS module..

Thanks

 

Val, what's the latest with your key issue? Did it turn out to be the antenna in the rear view mirror. My Mini dealership quickly diagnosed it as the problem when both my key Fob's failed at the same time. Turns out they are charging me $140 for the diagnostic work and another $614 for the antenna and installation. Sticker shocked to say the least........

 

Hello
I just wanted to say that I bought an R56 with the problem of the remote central locking not working. After doing my research on this forum I went and grabbed a mirror from another R56 - connected it and now everything works as it should. Obviously the remote receiver in the mirror was faulty. I have two frustrations.
1.How can Mini dealers let people buy new keys, mirrors etc and pay crazy money to have everything programmed when we are really talking a small circuit board in the mirror - or worst case a new mirror that literally takes 5 minutes to swap out - with no programming required. It's disgusting.
2. The price of a replacement mirror.

Anyway, thanks to this forum and BLokE_W_a_MINI I have paid $0 for this fix.
Note: This was an exact swap (R56 auto-dimming mirror for R56 auto-dimming mirror).