Just looking for some ideas.

I have a 2012 fJCW with sport suspension. I've added a lot to it and now I am running stage 3 (Battletune).

My current engine mod list is as follows: Battletune Stage 3, Alta FMIC, NM Eng Hi-Flow Induction Kit, NM Eng Discharge Pipe, an iPE downpipe back exhaust, and evolve catted downpipe.

I wanted to get coilovers but my driveway at my new place sucks and I would never be able to park in the driveway or garage if I lowered it.

So now what? What should/can I do to get more power without sacrificing reliability? I came from a stage 1 135i and that thing was fast, would love to get this go-kart closer to that...

 

N18 motor right ?

 

JCW didn't get the N18 until the 2013 model year.

 

Ok, are you willing to get a re-tune or break open the motor ?

 

re-tune? and maybe.. what you got in mind?

 

You can start by taking that boat anchor off your roof lol

Seriously, thats weight in the worst possible place as far as handling is concerned

 

Can't live without it.. I need the rack

 

Ot sounds like your pretty much there. If your willing to open the motor, the extreme end is port the head and ad cams. Or just add cams. And the owens turbo is always an option. All of those require a returning tho.

 

I'd say you're next route should be Methanol Injection System + Larger Turbo. And yes with the turbo, a re-tune will be needed.

 

Bigger TURBO!!! Not that sissy KO4.
I've been wanting to do a big T3/4 turbo n14 car.
We are in NC if you want to be a Guinea pig...

 

Go catless downpipe. The iPE sounds even more brutal. I love it.

 

I thought you ran catted because you didn't hate the environment? is that all you recommend? If I got a bigger turbo and/or Methanol Injection System could you give me a tune (I'm stage 3 now, looking to get my car dyno'd and send you the results). What about bigger plugs?

I'm not really familiar with meth injection systems. Could you give me the pros and cons and cost? presume I could add that without adding a bigger turbo, right? would I need a re-tune for that?

 

You do not need a turbo with this and no retune required. Actually most tuners don't tune them in unless you ask. It can be risky doing that. If you were to unknowingly run out of meth while running the tune, bad new bears.

Pros: Cooler intake temps, higher octane, can advance timing a little more, helps keep the carbon build up at a minimum, more power!!

Cons: Expensive. You pay for what you get. Howerton is the Champ right now, in fact there is a very nice used kit for sale on the Marketplace right now. A little tricky to install. A bit labor intensive, if you plan on having someone install it for you, search for a shop that has experience. You have to keep an eye on your meth level and add to your tank as needed. Speaking of the tank, it goes in the rear boot area. On the passenger side I believe. So that takes up some space.

Just things to consider. I will be getting the kit at some point, but will need to save up for it due to its cost. I've already hit my 2015 Mod budget this year so it'll have to wait.

Like ra2fanatic, I am also running catless. The sound is awesome and added power is nice. If possible I would recommend getting a Ceramic Coated DP to help keep the heat in and out the exhaust instead of under your hood. I would contact MarioKart for the DP. He has a wealth of knowledge that many people have reported on. seems like a stand up guy. He is a Manic Tune dealer, so he might try to get you to switch from Battle/DNA though

Are you running stock plugs currently? I'm currently running the Brisk Copper plugs that Sneed4Speed sells. I'm very happy with them. You will need to check plug gap every 10k or so and switch them out more frequently than Iridium, but you will get better spark from these than the standard.

You may consider adding Ignition Project Coils at the same time. The delivered amperage is 100% more than the stock coils. There was a noticeable difference when I added mine. I actually got mine gently used from ra2fanatic, as he like to keep things very fresh at all times.

I would definately get on a Dyno and get that sent off to Battle so they can adjust your A/F's. You'll get a more solid tune, plus a possible power boost.

Hope this helps, sorry it was a very long winded post.

Motor On!

 

I didn't hate the environment? I didn't bother to run catless because the iPE came catted, if it weren't for the fact that I wanted a 3rd bung to read lambda values, then I wouldn't have swapped it out. But because of that, I figured I'll squeeze out that extra bit of hp and noise.

 

Yea, not that sissy KO4 like i have. That don't make no power.

 

Ok so lets break this down:

- Dyno and Battletune retune with AFR values - +10HP? - $135 (for the dyno and AFR values at my local shop)
- Brisk Plugs - +2-3HP? - $76 (high maintenance)
- used Methanol Injection System - +10HP? - $875
- Catless DP and retune - +5HP? (over my highflow catted dp) - $300
- Ignition Project Coils - +1-2HP? - $400
- Owens turbo, retune/switch to manic, upgraded internals - +30hp? - $5k+?

does that sound right? got a better estimate for HP gains for each?

 

I'm new to the Mini world and I have one of the best mini guys around, Jerry at Euro Techs in Tempe. My 07 was stock when I got it and I did K&N intake, cat less DP full magma flow exhaust custom from my muffler guy , Alta recirc valve then I did manic stage 2. Next I installed the Forge FMIC then back in for manic 2+ and also I had him clean the intake which was nasty dirty. Once I got it back it was INSANELY quick.... Way to much torque so I put on lower rear control arms K Sport coil overs and got a good alignment. MUCH better. I am going to get a JCW turbo and Snow water meth and then manic stage 3. I guess what I am saying is Manic is a really good tune and stage 3 is tunable which is good.

 

Just to pee in everybody's cornflakes - read this post?

(ducks and runs)

Charlie

PS: I too am a sinner mind you, having unleashed Bren Tuning on the original R53 STX car. (if you click that link the Dyno graph is down a bit - post #95). That was +25 HP, and +25% torque from 2,500 to 4,000 RPM.

 

Thats an unfortunate story . Also unfortunate is that the OP of that post was using the AP as his tuner which, history shows here on NAM, is notorius for damaging engines.

 

Now what? How about a driving school? If one of your local (-ish?) clubs runs an autocross school, that'd be a great way to go. If not, maybe an HPDE at a local (-ish) track.

For a lower-$$ commitment, just running an autoX or two, especially with an instructor, can be a lot of fun.

All of the above will help you actually get the most out of what the car has to offer. And they play to the MINI's strongest suit: handling.